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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/26/16 in all areas
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11 pointsHi guys, It's been a while since i've posted on the forum, but have been checking in every now and again. Some of you may remember when I converted my e34 540i from automatic to 6 speed manual in 2010. 5years of fun was had going to track days and enjoying her. In late 2015 I was thinking about supercharging and started looking into options. Unfortunately I couldn't locate one, at which point I decided to build an M60B44. This is using the M60 heads, valve train and timing equipment and a M62B44 bottom end from an E38/E39 etc. I chose to regrind the M60 cams to something more aggressive. Standard cams have an advertised duration of 246 intake/242 exhaust. Franklin Cams reground mine to 272/252. The M62B44 headgasket was used and an oil feed for the original "U" timing chain was blocked as the M60 timing guides are different. Most things that could be replaced, were replaced. Several months into the build, I found a supercharger in the USA and thought to myself...why not? It took approximately 2months to arrive, but this gave me plenty of time to actually get it running and iron out some of the bugs. The supercharger arrived ~3weeks ago. The clutch setup has been custom made/modified by Autoclutch in Auckland. I have now done 1300km on the rebuilt engine, and it definitely pulls stronger in all gears up to the current redline. I tried to dyno the car 3 weeks ago, but unfortunately the radiator blew a hole just before the dyno run was about to start. New radiator and heavy duty fan installed as a precaution. Tomorrow (27/6/16) I have a dyno run to see how it pulls out of the box. This is using the factory ECU/DME for the M60B40. I know I didn't need to do it as I will be installing the supercharger straight off the bat, but I wanted to compare with my Auto dyno run in ~2009. Another run will be done after the supercharger and piggy back ECU install/tune. Aiming for ~400whp with the blower. A 320lph AEM fuel pump and 42lb injectors arrived last week. Enjoy. http://imgur.com/a/9bCZm https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HkMwtzC8qcI
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4 pointsAccomplished most of what I wanted or at least the important bits. Replaced the perished left front brake hose which needed doing though me being me I wanted to replace both the fronts with new ones at the same time. Tried to do the right side though the top nut is rounded so that's a job for another day. Also replaced the rear super lows with a not so low spring. Ride height seems great. Bled the brakes and polished two wheels. With Simon's help replaced the gasket and heater box and tested for leaks. Not leaking there now yippee! Though now leaking from somewhere behind the heatshield/around the steering column area. Put the "elephant trunk" back on and it stopped leaking... will be an investigation for another day as the engine is sort of in the way Scuffed the rust on the floor pan and painted over it with rust kill stuff. Put the sunroof and windscreen back in place. Now for the accelerator pedal and steering wheel to be put back and she will be off to the panel shop. Also fixed my indicator issue so they'll turn off themselves now!! Goal for next weekend is to have her back on the road (and washed). Note that the "rust" colour on this last photo isn't from rust... mainly the glue to keep the sound deadening on.
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2 pointsCheers for that. Yep we did stop, I could have claimed it on his insurance, but I am not like that, I can fix it my self and I already fibre glassed the aluminium bar in to my bumper, and made a new peace to go in to my mud guard.
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1 pointGood day one and all. I am new to this forum but have been a keen admirer of BMW's for ever and have been on other forums. Originally from SA and have owned four BM's over there. Here in NZ I am the proud owner of a 135i manual with sunroof which has been customized by myself. Some mods : CDV delete Second cats removed and replaced with straight pipes Air box replaced with twin cone filters Disconnected the valve in the second exhaust tail piece so both pipes are in use from the start Both recirc blow off valves removed and replaced with one HKS BOV Angel eye light upgrade and boosted to 12V Carbon wrapped the kidney surrounds, mirrors, shark fin and boot spoiler as well as custom wrapped the side skirts Tinted to 35% Interior lights changed to bright white LED's Removed the CCC system and replaced with Sony double din touch screen with steering wheel functionality maintained Flip up motorised screen removed and replaced with a factory BMW storage compartment Replaced the battery with a 110amp/hr deep cycle Upgraded the original speakers and fitted tweeters into the door corners and rear deck Two 12" subwoofers powered by a 1200w RMS monoblock All mids and tweeters powered by a 200w RMS amp Smoked out tail lights Have changed many coding settings to my liking e.g the indicators flash 5 times after flicking the stalk BMW light up badges on the boot and bonnet Unfortunately i'm not finished yet. Would still like to get 19" wheels and a front spoiler fitted. Will post pics sometime as i've never taken any of my car. Unfortunately i'm not finished yet. Would still like to get 19" wheels and a front spoiler fitted.
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1 pointI've been an advocate for the Bilstein/Eibach solution because it does represent the majority of things to the majority of users, and it does provide a single-source, nigh-on bolt-up solution that requires little thought and only a little technical expertise. The lower end solutions aren't as flexible as others, but they are good, out of the box. I've not bought new shocks recently (just springs) but my preference has formally been for Koni kit. For whatever reason, it's not as simple to buy Koni shocks and springs as a solution as it is with the Bilstein/Eibach offering. FWIW, I do feel the Koni yellows are superb. Certainly not the last word in suspension technology (that's megabucks) but the Yellows are very, very good. Choose springs carefully and you'll have a long-lasting, adaptable and adjustable (if you want!) set-up. If you want adjustable... If you don't and still prefer Koni, then there is the Str.T kit to consider, too.
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1 pointHi Michael, The geared sprocket from the M60 is used along with all M60 timing guides. The unit i'm using is from a Dinan kit. *edit* I forgot to mention is it a centrifugal unit...
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1 pointDefinitely looking forward to the dyno run and especially the supercharger.
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1 pointThat sweet man. Ive always thought about doing a M60\M62 hybrid on an E34 too, definitely the most reliable BMW V8 setup. I look forward to the dyno results.
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1 pointAmazing effort! Interested to hear how things go with the supercharger!
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1 pointI can't help you with the previous member who you recall having some, but i found this link a few years ago, would the B99 sample be what you are after? Could give those guys a call. http://lemansautofabrics.co.nz/fabric-bmw.html
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1 pointNo pics this time round but some updates. -Wireless central locking all go. -Foglights all go. Had a few issues with relays, switches, bulbs and housings but all sussed now. Yellow halogen bulbs on order. -MTech1 steering wheel. Scored it for $25! Leather was shot though. -SS Brake Lines all installed. What a fun job, not! New brake pads and sensors too and a brake fluid bleed. -LED interior lights and put an extra light in the boot too.
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1 pointSome more pics would help, it sounds (and looks from the single pic) very nice and the price seems reasonable.
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1 pointAlso, this is how my hands stay clean... Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk
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1 pointThis is true. And I don't want to get into a pissing competition but it's important to note that whilst it's possible to optimise an adjustable setup most people will never be able to do this and will end up with a worse setup than an off-the-shelf non-adjustable setup. The reality of optimising a suspension setup is that you need a ton of knowledge, a ton of experience and a ton of time. Most people don't have any of that. An adjustable setup in the hands of somebody that can tune it properly is by far the most adaptable setup and as such can be optimised for all sorts of conditions. An adjustable setup in the wrong hands is a disaster waiting to happen. And that's exactly why I don't have adjustable suspension. I don't need it and by accepting the inherent (albeit small) compromises of a matched non-adjustable setup I've saved time, money and frustration. I've also lost nothing because I don't have a race car. Most people I know with an adjustable setup fiddle a bit, get it feeling fine and never revisit the settings. Might as well just get a fixed setup. Although ride-height flexibility with adjustable shocks is appealing in and of itself to some people.
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1 pointNo, not too firm. In fact I think this is how the car should have come from the factory. Even my mother wouldn't say the ride was uncomfortable. There's a lot of opinion about the Bilstein dampers that is no longer relevant/accurate as the shocks have undergone a significant overhaul since (about) 2008. This is about the same time they teamed up with Eibach. You won't find a better matched non-adjustable set of dampers/springs/sways out there because they are matched, not just bundled together.
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1 pointDealer Principal does...and so do all the guys who like to drop comments about "accidental scrapes, bumps, bumper removal" from them driving past. But GM is wicked, always comments and chats about it. But I guess that's because he's GM of JC also haha.
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1 pointFar from complete but you get the picture. Front seat inserts are just placed in there for the time being and I still need to clean up the fronts properly. Very different, very dark! But I like it. They need some use so that everything starts to settle into place but that'll happen over time.
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1 pointRight, so I collected the start of my upholstered bits today, rear seat assembly and front seat inserts. Also dropped front the bolsters off to get fixed and recovered. Must get on to those door cards or it's going to look a little odd for a while!
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1 pointHi Noel, awesome build! Apologies if this has already been asked, but did you have issues with rev cut (5200/5500rpm) when you removed the ABS? I'm looking to do the same on my track / hill climb 328i after reading about the E36 ABS ice mode "feature" I want to see how hard it will be to work around the cut-out from no speed sensor / wheel sensor signal before going down that path. Cheers, Russell