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Dental floss for the win! It took the old badge off, my thumbnail took off the rest of the foam tape, a bit of meths took care of the glue residue, then a clean and a quick polish before putting new badge on...homemade template to line up badge made with cling film, knead it, and a stick! old badge removed... cleaned and polished... new badge in template... and fitted to car. Result.

Did something in my new shed for a change.

I had some flat bill hat wearing ballbag trying to buy some coilovers off me a while ago who didn't want to spend more than $500 and they had to be "mint" Bloody idiots. I've now discovered since I got the manual E53 I don't want to drive my three 3 series anymore or my e39. They're all too low and my old man back gets grumpy.

Yeah but low. And stance. Bro.

What is it with people who want "recommendations for quality coilies to go superlow but won't cost mucho $$$ and keep a good ride"? Ain't no such thing. A decent set of shocks and springs will cost that; a decent set of coilovers will cost more. (Nothing wrong with a good coilover setup, of course.) Just saw someone looking for exactly this, but doesn't want to spend more than $500! "Why are BC Golds so expensive, bro..." A decent set of springs is going to cost $300+. These people have no idea of the damage they're doing to their cars, or the safety issues they present to themselves and others.

I'm having to let this go due to moving workshop and wanting to buy a house one day 1997 328i Msport coupe NZ new, Boston green 235km, fair amount of service history Black leather sport seats, electric The sore points Paint on bonnet is flaking off at an impressive rate, paint on sunroof has dulled Head lining is beginning to sag behind the sunroof Two holes in drivers seat, on the highest points of the upper and lower side bolsters Steering wheel and gearknob leather torn Some damage to driver's door card, I have been unable to find a replacement, the first set I got were totally trashed The good: Fantastic ZF gearbox with recent clutch job Many new bushings installed less than two years ago by P.Owner (appear to be purple proflex or similar) Near new 205/16 tyres, or can bargain in a set of nice 225/45 Michelin MXF Sports, both sets are installed on tidy original Msport wheels Have done the FCPEuro fan delete kit with new water pump, fantastic upgrade Has many new hoses New filters Recent brake pads I have done an oil change just before 234km and had an oil analysis sample done M3 sway bar links (with the XYZ suspension) Have flushed out the powersteering Can come on a choice of suspension: XYZ Tarmac suspension in good condition, currently in the car and it is unbelievable in the corners Msport springs with Monroe front and Gabriel heady duty rears (near new) Superlow springs (I forget brand) with shortened Monroes Car is not certed for adjustable suspension, I didn't plan to keep it in there as I do not care for cert plates looking ugly in an engine bay and wanted to retain originality I'm wanting $6k ono and happy to listen to offers if this is horribly unreasonable. XYZ suspension and Michelin semi slicks can be had for extra (ideally keeping these for the race car) Viewing and test drives welcomed unless you strike me as a womble Located in Hastings

Nanna’d it from Auckland to Gisborne. 3/4 tank of fuel used which worked out to be 10.4l/100km according to the obc.

Cheers, let me know!

Hey Graham, this is from r/MechanicAdvice and has helped me in the past finding parasidic draws and weird battery issues. voltage drop testing in six easy steps

Keen for a spin sometime!!

pulled the side repeaters off the M5, cleaned, polished, UV sealed and replaced. One more job ticked off on the list.

Feel you need to find out is it the battery or do you have a current draw from some thing coursing the flat battery. .When you charged the battery do you load test it to see if it holds a charge and comes back before refitting it in the car. As you say green generally means all good black could mean flat need a charge or stuffed new battery.required bugger. By chance does it have a label on it or letters stamped on the terminals might help find out how old it is. Best of luck getting it sorted can be a right PITA at this time of year.

‘97 750i (SWB) - all original (208,000 km) except for tail lights (post 97) - in great running order (fresh repaint) except for on board monitor! I’m guessing that the 4:3 screen has permanently died! Any suggestions on where to find a replacement? Cheers Mark

Happy to see it in such a deserving engine bay Ray!! Glad I can play Santa and give this to you for all the help over the years! Merry Christmas!!

It might pay to check the cv joints on the driveshaft, they may be making the clicking noise. Does the noise increase with engine revs or with the speed of the car? Just thinking that, if it is a constant noise that increases with road speed, it is more likely to be coming from the diff/output shafts. If you notice it changing relative to the engine speed/transmission output speed then it has to be trans or something forward of it.

Stashed away at the moment. Looks similar to this:

Oh I didnt take photos so I drawed one