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It's not just the replacement costs, they are not very nice to drive on the road from my experience (may have improved over time, but..) they are noisy, and usually cold with poor brake feel. But then, none of that is important, as it's all about the wank factor, and standing at Kyu's once a month and saying "yeah, but then I've got the ceramic brake option..."

I came across a big table awhile back that listed common pads/rotors and the compatibility between them, it was in german and done by some science guy... and now I cant find it. Was to do with the crystalline structure of the rotor, and combined with hard pad materials, resulted in poor transfer of the pad material into the rotors pores if that structure was particularly dense. I think Glenns point is that he only recommends ATE + ATE, as its guaranteed to work, anything else and its luck.

Get someone to check the Sprag clutch on the alternator pulley. When cold, if its faulty it will trigger the front engine knock sensor. If its faulty replace tensioner and alternator pulley at the same time. It won't trigger an engine fault code because the knock sensor is working and doing its job to protect the engine.

EOI. Have a 320i E30 coupe racecar, believe it has forged pistons, also cage goes through to front and rear strut towers, new exhaust, brand new wheels, near new tyres - don’t have so much time to race so thinking of changing up for a nice street car or something alike. Would be interested in a deal with either of the cars listed below, have a nice single axle trailer to go with it to. Car has no stickers now* E36 coupe or sedan, Motorsport and manual. E46 facelift sedan or prefacelift coupe, 3litre, Motorsport and manual. Or happy to sell outright, $12,500 ono for trailer and car.

My eyes hurt...... not sure whether to cry at the destruction of an M6 or laugh at the idea. Don't get me wrong, I'm all for people doing different things, and the level of engineering and detail that's gone into this is amazing, along with the $$$'s spent..... I'd hate to see the total cost for the build. A 6 rotor? I've heard tell of billet 4 rotors setting people back around US$85k but this is next level......... Oh and yes it actually runs

I have all the parts so its just time and playing with engines is fun time in my books; and to be fair the parts cost is minuscule compared to what an S50 would cost. oh an I am stroking an M52B25 so much bigger potential gains.

Glenn has a huge amount of real world industry experience. He's never steered me wrong and I value his knowledge.

But of course, the detailer you pay to keep your brand new M6 spec’d with csb’s knows that...

You also need a doctors skills to install them or even taking a wheel on /off the vehicle. Make sure your insurance is up to date.

https://www.hemmings.com/blog/2013/10/04/tech-101-how-to-choose-the-right-disc-brake-rotors/

https://www.bmwux.com/bmw-performance-technology/bmw-performance/bmw-m-carbon-ceramic-brakes-complete-guide/

I was invited to watch it at the media company. I'll ask the guy for a link or hard copy to up load ?

Its possible to get metallurgy of the rotors and pads incompatible, so the pads dont correctly bed in to the rotors, and leave uneven deposits, which leads to crazy weird runouts/squeeling/sadness. If you want good "stock" brakes run ATE rotors and pads, guaranteed to work. Mixing and matching could result in an expensive mess. Im currently looking at rotors and pads for my BMWP/135i setup, stoptech rotors and pads are looking good (ATE dont make rear rotors to suit) and are priced reasonably.

Interesting glimpse into the past at the prices of E30s. Car in question is a pov spec, manual 316i, bronzit facelift coupe that had 80,000kms on the clock

Tons more done, driving and riding real well now! Just put in Bilstein HDs plus Eibachs, M5 suspension arms, tie rod ends and drag link. So so much better!

haha yeah, school of hard knocks and all that. ?