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Woah, calm down tough guy ?

Random act of a good bugger yesterday at supermarket Sun was out yesterday in Palmy so I risked a visit to the supermarket in the M3, saw a nice Alfa 159 wagon decided to park next to it (therefore person cares about their car and wont let his door hit mine). While parking this guy walks up to my car and asks if I would like a new mag wheel for my car for free, it was the owner of the 159 who at one stage had an E36 M3 and this wheel had been sitting in his garage for years. He wouldn't accept payment so if you are ever in Palmy for the night and need a motel the manager /owner of http://citycorporate.co.nz/ is a good bugger and I assume he would run his motel the same way. He also had a Gulia in the garage

Before/after a spirited drive in the country

The 1M and the 135i are totally different cars. If you were to say i can buy a 135i for 25k and spend 25k on it, its gonna be faster than a 1M, you sir are a total douche bag... There's more history in the 1M with all the suspension and body work. For those who are comparing the two cars has never driven a 1M and personally should not comment or compare the two...

Okay, so I got back to the diff... In park, both rear wheels in the air and handbrake off, can't turn the wheels by hand. Thanks for the advice on that test Glenn. And for further confirmation: https://itstillruns.com/identify-limited-slip-differential-7805308.html In neutral both wheels spin in the same direction. Conclusive? If not, the fact that I've never seen the DCT light blink surely adds weight, I'm not driving like a nanny. Now, what ratio? Could well be stock but I just don't know.

Large premium being asked but they seem to hang around for years. No doubt they're great cars but 50k is still too much for what it is in my opinion.

Well I figured I'd carry on the legacy, and keep a project thread for this car that I bought off M3AN. Old Project thread: http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/56912-another-e36-my-328-beauty-sold/ I purchased the car wanting to turn it into a track hack, as I've taken the E30 touring out to a few track days. It's performed well but would eventually like a rollcage for safety, and also some larger brakes. Both of which aren't something I would to do to my touring, so here we are. Same motor, but I think it will easily be able to beat the tourings time around the track without stripping it for weight savings. So picked up the car on the original 16s yesterday. Got her home, and on went the ACS type 2's (17x8 ET38) Initial impressions -Handles really well -Not a fan of the aftermarket alarm (had to get M3an to show me the trick to be able to leave his driveway) -The Auto box needs to go. It's really lets down all the suspension work done on the car, as it likes to hunt around and jerk. In comparison the E36 318ti I've been dailying is much nicer drive around town, and feels the same power wise ? -I did say to M3an that I didn't think there was much difference between the stock E36 rack and a purple tag after having both in my E30 (admittedly I drove it a year apart). But after driving this and the E30 back to back, there is definitely a difference. Purple tag is just tighter, and doesn't have the dead zone in the middle. -Sunroofs are not my friend. Hair rubs on the roof with the seat as low as it goes. Might have to change my seating position. Things to do -Value cover seal replacement (weeping a bit from the front) -Fix weird idle issue (hunts around a bit there) -Manual conversion -Bucket seat -Boss kit -Brake upgrade (Need to find some 330i fronts) -Purple tag rack swap -Have all the barrels work off 1 key -Remove the aftermarket immobiliser -Find a replacement front guard -Poly bushings -Rollcage -Put the AC back in (I'd rather be cool driving too and from the track, rather than have weight savings) -VANOS rebuild -Fix drivers window (Seems to detect too much pressure going up, and then retracts slightly)

Too many on google to choose from. Anyone have a recommendation?

No, it's 100% not necessary. 0W will provide "required" lubrication at -40*C... it't not necessary, and indeed inefficient, for any plausible NZ condition. Here's a good chart (for the 'w' specification at least):

Just asking if any body can help out with a drivers window switch, coupe or sedan. The little locating pin holding the switch lever in place has gone. The part number on it is 6 902 175. Had a look on ebay etc and want stupid money. Thanks guys

Stretching my time between family, work, the M3 project I was finally able to give the B5 my full attention today. Getting the valve cover off was pretty time consuming and involved removing the cabin air intake, fuel rail, moving heater hoses and electrical wiring then lifting and turning the cover in order to clear the sensors at the back valve train. I can’t get over how clean the valve train, camshafts and timing chains are despite 150000kms. Reinforces the service book history albeit in Japanese. Fussily I gave the cover a clean despite there being little residue inside and out. Replacing the front timing cover was straight forward once you have removed the vanos sensors. The BMW valve cover comes with the gasket as well as replacement rubber fasteners seals and the integrated bolt/seals. Everything is there except the sensor o-rings and spark plug tubes. I replaced the o-rings but the tubes were ok. Replacing the cover with the new gasket is the reverse although I did use gasket maker in the corners and ‘humps’. Lining the spark plus tubes up and seated was a bit fiddly but a deep breath and more patience gets you there. Once the cover was torqued down (15nm) I put the new spark plugs in followed by coils then fuel rail. I’ve put this side back together as much as possible while it’s fresh in my mind before starting the drivers side. Drivers side should be a lot easier as there isn’t as much plumbing and electrical wires to get in the way.. here’s hoping. Bit of good time management should have it back together next weekend if not before.

be careful wiring it up mine seems to flatten the batterymuch more quickly than it should.I think i am keeping Mr Toyota "awake"

I have a E3/E9 and possibly suitable for E12 LSD diff for sale. The LSD unit was originally out of a 2800, but has now been adapted (redone PCD ) for the 3.0S/3.0Si style diff. It has the 3:64 ratio. The LSD was checked out by a mechanic friend of mine when he did the changeover a number of years ago - but I have never run the diff in a car. Looking for offers around the $1000 mark - as LSD units for these cars are pretty rare now PM me or contact me on 0272010807 Diff is in Wellington

but its not basically the same car at all, thats the point lol

i like the 1M a lot, but it makes more financial sense to me to buy a manual 135i for 20k and have basically the same car.

I personally don't see the appeal of them. I understand they're ~250kW go carts but even then, I'd rather buy other appreciating BMW models with similar factory power figures for less money. Personally I'd rather a FL E46/92 M3.

$45k for a time bomb? No thanks. Subframe needs proof of doing, VANOS and pump hub need proof of doing, SMG pump and accumulator seals need proof of doing and then it's a $35k car at best. All these people selling 'quick' BMW's seem to be dreaming, whether it's an E30 M3, E36 M3, E46 M3, CSL, Z3M etc, etc, they're crazy prices. How many are actually selling? E60 M5's are selling for less than 25k, that 1M will sell for less than 50k... more realistic.

I was under my new 130i looking around today, and have the same number on the casing 7518405.

With the interior sorted it was time to really step it up with the end of the year fast approaching, so i decided to book in for a pre cert check and a date for certification was sorted! I had just over 4 weeks! This time was spent getting the rest of the body panels and mouldings fitted and aligned nicely and getting it back down on the ground, something that hadn't happened for about 9 months! A short drive up the road and a quick rinse off and the car was ready for the pre cert check (which included a wof check and alignment). And finally time to get the new custom car cover on. With a couple of things sorted from the pre check, the car was off for certification a week later. The list came back with about 20 things to rectify. At least i had a point to work with to get it over the line. Back onto the axel stands its lived on for most of the year, with the main issue being a vacuum leak causing a variety of issues that needed to be sorted. A new pcv valve and intake gaskets sorted this, and gave me the chance to clean the engine up a little more. As my engine was mounted off the chassis rail the certifier wanted to see a cross brace between the 2 mounts, this work was carried out by local workshop Trundles Automotive, very happy with the results. Back for the cert recheck and we're good to go!