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Sounds like some cars do a self-learn on the valvetronic motor, but INPA might be able to do a relearn and end stops. Hopefully my INPA works on it. this is the self-learn, if it helps. turn the car ON (don't start engine), and wait. You should here the car going through the "self test/calibration" on the valvetronic motor. Wait about 30 seconds and turn the car off. Next restart everything should be ready.

Will definitely try that out. Have also given the car a good clean in a couple of places that I hadn't got to yet, cup holder and air vents. Cup holder had some sugary beverage spilled inside which my detailing spray cleaned up nicely. Air vents had faded in the sun, gave them a couple of coats of trim treatment and they're looking much better.

A brace of BMW tourings

Do the rev's just drop to idle when it happens? I realise you believe it may be the clutch/gearbox side but it would still be worth removing the accelerator peddle and check/clean/test the fly-by-wire cable/plug. It's easy to do and might show something up.

http://www.speedhunters.com/2020/02/the-all-american-european-sleepers/

Thats a really nice colour

Sorted with a bit of persuasion...

Kia ora and welcome. I agree with the above comment, looks nice, especially in this colour.

Great choice, e90 LCI Msport's look great and nice colour too

It's only a theory at the moment, and although I'd bet on it, doesn't mean you should. Don't spend any more money just yet. I'm pretty sure there are members here from Wellington that have the correct BMW software to run a VANOS test for you, and probably look at 'shadow codes' in case there's relevant information there. Unfortunately a dealer or independent will charge you an arm and a leg for that. Yell for help in the Wellington section perhaps, you might get rescued? Swapping the 'noids over is easy... don't change the seals for testing but if you isolate the problem then replace the o-rings on final install. Edit: if you do this, make sure you clean the exterior surfaces thoroughly before you remove the solenoids, unlike in the video.

Put some Hawk HT10 pads on the car, along with some R888R's all round. The pads made the pedal feel very vague with no heat in the brakes, but after warming them up, performed very well, and had no issues with locking up. They are of course, not great on the street, so had to keep my distance driving there and back. After the track day, they also squeal when cold. No action shots this time, as it was just me, though I guess I should figure out filming along with recording lap times. Managed a PB for me of 1:55.74. PB of the car (In it's prior state with shot HPS pads and street tyres is 1:55:44) All in all, a very consistent 1:57 Managed to pass an E46 330ci, and kept up with a few slightly higher power cars too (V8 powered AE86) So very happy with the pads, they seemed to lock up even after several laps. Now that I have pads I can trust, need some time to get consistent, so I stop locking up and wearing flat spots on tyres >.> Only real issue was at the end of the last session, when I came into the pits, turned the car off, and coolant started coming out of the overflow, leaving a massive puddle for me to clean up. Electric fan wasn't running like it was after other sessions, and temperature gauge was showing below average. Coolant pipes were solid. Ended up driving her home without incident, so we shall see. Potentially an airlock that finally got freed after almost 200km's of track duty?

hay Jon, I came here to give you some words of encouragement on your project. hurry the f**k up. You only got 7 months until the start of the 20/21 season

I decided to go with some staggered M contours (style 23). They look pretty good in my opinion. Will take some better photos at some point.