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Got around to sorting out the crusty “chrome” window trims.

Gives a deeper note with improved performance. Post cat Oxy sensors coded out. Available $750 includes fitting and tune. Jig made for the production line.

A couple of weekends back, did the valve cover gasket. That had to be be pried out with pliers out of the cover, as it was so hard and brittle. Managed to chip a piece off into the head, so had to borrow a mates air compressor, and fortunately managed to blow it out. Also did the oil filter housing while I was in there, which wasn't too bad, but likely needed to be done. The head looks much cleaner than the one in my E30. This weekend pulled out the auto box. Bit of a pain doing that solo, as it's flipping heavy, and I didn't have enough extensions to got the whole length of the auto box. The fluid that came out of the auto box was dark, so that probably wasn't helping the poor jatco. Manual pedal box is in. Fresh fluid inside the manual box, the little bit of oil still left in it was nice and pink, so hopefully she hasn't been abused too much. Providing I have a spigot bearing, should have this rolling after easter.

Coded out a few frustrating things on the F10 and the i3, stupid automatic start stop option on the M5 now doesn’t default on, ?

But the cLiMaTE cHAngE! Greta will be most upset by those additional oxides of nitrogen you are releasing! Definitely worth it though

Gave the headlights a bit of a tickle up with Chemical guys all in one headlight treatment. Came up alright.

E9x M3 rear control arm retrofit into the Hellbm 140i E87. Replacement of the 135i upper arms with M3 ones should tighten up the rear.

You disappoint me, Dave. ? So it does actually hold up? I feel a little embarrassed, trust me to post that and someone here has done it!

Better you than I ? a week later and it would have been me doing it! ?

Likely talking about the flywheel spacer\skim that goes under the flywheel bolts

A little bit more faux Alcantara... quite good I think and now matches the rest.

https://www.gsparkplug.com/1x-ngk-copper-core-spark-plug-bkr6equp-3199.html Nearly half price. 8 of them, shipped to NZ (VAT is taken off when shipping to NZ) is 51.66 pounds.... NZ$13.50 each.

It get's pretty gross under there eh!?

Have had plenty of garage time and as I’ve explained to wife it’s dangerous to climb ladders currently with risk of broken bones and catching Covid19 at the hospital ? Ticking off items on the project list. Clean, paint & rebuild brake callipers Used a combo of wire brush, electric drill with wire brush attachments, dremmel wire brushes, sand paper and brake cleaner. Painted with 4 coates of Duplicolour Calliper paint and 3 coates of high heat clear over top. Blue’s my fav colour. Decided not to use MSport logos as I would have had cover up the MSport stamp on the callipers. Used ATE ex-FCP Euro seals and followed instructions placing dust shield at bottom of piston before pressing in using g-clamp. Straight forward. I’m really pleased with the results. Moving to the rear. More corrosion here and pistons were a little seized! Plus the pads had disintegrated!, Looks like a BMW stamp? So need to get replacement pads. Supercheap and Repco online is available. Anyone make any recommendations for the brands stocked? XP dba, Reco brand, TWR or Silverline? May end up being stop gap. Also replace gearbox mounts Straightforward loosening top nut then using jack to take weight then dropping gearbox bracket a bit then remove mounting nuts top and bottom before sliding out. Install the reverse.

It is still sagging at the edges, but I'll probably just give it a clean up and reglue it back together. Found out why the key doesn't work in the boot. It's the Valet key. So my assumption is that the drivers door has been replaced, and the lock wasn't swapped over. (If any of the previous owners could confirm that would be handy) Which would mean I just need a new full key cut off the passenger door code, and a drivers door lock rebuild kit. And hopefully the boot lock hasn't been swapped also. The boot lock decided it wanted to no longer work with the central locking. Fortunately the rear seats fold down, so was just a case of crawling in there and manually opening it. The solenoid still works when 12 volts is applied, and the rest of the system works when you move the arm back and forward. I'm assuming it will be the boot loom which looked ok at the parts where it exits the body and enters the trunk, so that will be some fun. Tidied the garage, and gave the gearbox a clean.