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We have heard the people, and we have listened ... behold !!! The next eagerly anticipated update Worked up a prototype MDF dry sump mount after shooting some beams again to work out the relative hole positions. While waiting for some laser cutting (header flanges and dry sump oil scraper) I got in and cleaned the front wheel wells and got a coat of black 2k paint on them. Also cleaned and coated the guard liners with trim black. Got the Sikky Manufacturing slim steering linkage in place which should make life easier when it comes time to make the headers. Got the laser cut oil scraper installed and checked for interference before making up the viton o-ring seal, much easier than I thought it would be ... the o-ring cord stayed put without any vasoline or other goo. I lost the use of my borrowed torque wrench so had to cast the mind back to my physics classes and improvise with a fish scale and 3/8" power bar I think its more accurate to be fair !! After my careful calibration check of the scales of course. Received the Holden Astra electric power steering pump finally so will give it a clean at some point soon and put it aside for a few months. Milestone event !!! Oil pan installed for good with my ghetto torque wrench to boot. Now to shorten the ATI drive mandrel for the dry sump pulley, managed to chop off all of the 3/8" threaded hole also so I could convert to M10. The drop saw got the job done pretty well ... in hind sight i should have done it differently to make things a little less sketchy process wise. Good result with the mandrel chopped down to the right length and tapped. That brings us up to current with the pump fitted using the mk1 pump mount ... could probably be used for first start but I'll make up something better shortly. Great that the belt length works out, total stroke of luck !! Might still look to install a tensioner. Also got some cooling system gaskets so have reinstalled the rear water outlet casting and will be blanking off a few bits shortly, nothing too sexy to report there. Hopefully tomorrow will get the flywheel, clutch and trans on so we're ready to go back into the car for hopefully the final time !! Just waiting on the heater box right angle fittings.

Hi all Helping a fellow BMW Car Club member sell their beautiful Z3M Roadster... https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/listing/3133883715 ~146KMs on it, asking price is $40K. Very rare, and very fun! If you're interested, contact Raewyn on 0272750656.

1600 GT? Very late 60's I think. Design concept Frua or Michelotti perhaps. Got to be Italian.

Yep, sold. I bought it. It’s in as new condition. Sure, you can buy a “tidy” one for around 10k with 100,000km on it but I would rather spend and extra $9,000 for one that’s literally in “as new” condition with 25,000km on the clock. You won’t find a nicer one.

993

No posts for a little while as have just been chipping away in the background and making plans for things needed to mount the engine for the (hopefully) final time ... heater lines, wire routing, sealing the cabin blower air intake etc. I did pull the engine again and have fitted the shifter relocation kit finally so I can make car noises and change gears At the same time I shortened the dust cap so the Spicer 1350 slip yoke can fit without fouling. Onto the VERY exciting developments this week ... received the dry sump housing and rebuild kit needed to change mounting from right to left. On the same day the Sikky Manufacturing slim steering linkage arrived. Dry sump is fully stripped and now ready to reassemble with the new housing. By far the most exciting thing to happen was the arrival of the dry sump oil pan which I designed and had made via https://hubs.com ... looks FANTASTIC, so stoked. Lets hope it fits up alright Will need to finalise the design of the oil scraper plate before it can be mounted up permanently.

Fuel pump wiring now complete, pretty happy with how it turned out. Went for a 22A solid state relay for reliability and 12 gauge wire for the hot side to mate up with the 20A fuse. Finally got to the cavity wax application in the areas that were opened up and ground / welded etc. Got the rear interior pretty much all back in and its looking great ... can't quite finish as I want to leave the rear bumper off for now while more work happens some time down the track (exhaust mainly). Had an Amazon voucher from work so turned that into a nice set of crimping tools (Deutsch and others for when attention turns to the wiring department) and Torx Plus bits so I can assemble the ATI super damper finally (yea, Torx Plus is a thing ... who knew !!). Also got my centre console triple gauge mount all the way from Lithuania !!

Have a set of 18” M-Pars coming, will do coilovers at the same time. Will manual convert later in the year and once that’s done I’ll just do stainless headers and exhaust. Don’t want to stray too far away from factory unless I can put original parts back on easily.

You'd have to really love the e36 to spend upwards of 10k on one considering you could get a considerably more modern e46 or e8/9x with low km's in manual for far less than 20k, and they're all superior vehicles, vastly in some cases. I'm not sure paying for nostalgia, for anything other than an M-car, is wise money.

Yeah but look at them, they look like crap 😂. I’m the type of person who would drop $20k on a low mileage example (because I did), but wouldn’t look twice at either of those. Big difference between a cared for, garaged, supermarket trip once a week example and one that’s sat outside deserted for 20 years. Apples and oranges. Also, In regards to a paint correction needing doing, it must have been done recently because it’s spotless. Anyways! I’ll take proper photos and put up a showroom thread sometime this coming week. Cheers

OK, sceptical😂

Somebody save me from putting this on trademe... $6000 firm.

Definitely auto, and as @Eagle mentioned, probably the dreaded Jatco being a jap import. I'm with @Ghost Chip, not what I would buy for the money, but as long as @Cab is happy thats all that matters. Should be a nice car once its had paint correction and a manual swap.

Pretty sure it was an auto. Fair enough though, to each their own. The saying “it’s worth what someone else is willing to pay for it” works here I guess. Congrats on the purchase @Cab

Returning recently from the UK we bought a couple of vehicles in. It's pretty straightforward, as folks have said. Choose a good UK exporter who understands NZ and can manage the requirements. Make sure the quote includes delivery to your compliance folks here in NZ, don't pack anything else in the car (saves any associated issues), keep ALL documentation in physical and electronic form. As you're in NZ I would also recommend you have a chat with the people who will do your compliance. They can give you a lot of pointers.

As above, just import a Behr radiator, they're the OE supplier anyway. I got mine from FCP and it couldn't have been easier. Consider a lower temp thermo switch and thermostat if you're tracking the car, I went down to 88*C IIRC and removed the clutch fan which has been fine.

Great car well bought Rowan. Cars in this condition are only original once 🙂 Never mind throwing money into restoring a shabby car, they are not quite the same as the original when finished.

okay maybe im also an idiot who could have been doing that the whole time

I sold the guy some style 22’s I’m assuming for this car, I dropped them off to his dealership. The guy is sitting on array of cars that are rising in value some of them are not even on the market yet. Its a long game, but no doubt it’ll sell eventually.

I keep seeing cars for sale on trademe that I only want bits of....

Got the engine / subframe out of the car again so can start fabricating the mounts.