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This one is back up for sale with a more realistic pricing perhaps? https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/m5/listing/4015770143

H pattern? Don't see the dogleg. Reverse is meant to be give resistance.

Have done that before on the gf’s barina after replacing the head gasket. Missed a trans connector which stopped it from shifting out of first… Dog stepped in my fresh silicone around the new tiles when the census man turned up at the front door 😡🤬 so took the z4 out to blow off some steam (and cobwebs)

My old E30 had the same issue. Rarely ever happened luckily. Given the milage on your car it probably deserves a bit of a mechanical birthday. E30s aren't too hard on the wallet.

No, I've not pushed it (haven't re-listed it since last year). A mate nearly bought it but didn't have the cash. It's sitting in rented garage while I have zero spare time for it. I drove it in early Jan and Jon fully scanned it. It has one code to get sorted that I'm halfway through researching cost/effort to resolve, or just drop the price so it makes sense to buy. The V8 version of VANOS - needs a new actuator motor.

Made quite a bit of progress this weekend and now have the first 'polled' metrics displaying nicely. These are things that are not broadcast on the CAN network as they are not needed to be consumed by other modules in the car. Examples are oil temp, gas pedal position, air fuel ratios, intake air temp and injector duration. All of these thing in my case are coming from the Nissan ECM but there is no reason you can't do the same for the BMW or any other car for that matter. Have also tweaked some visuals on the temp graphs to display blue when 'too cold' then green for normal and red when cooked. Plenty of easy mucking about left to do here when frustrated with the harder work. For those curious, the rough process of reverse engineering has been: Set up some light weight Arduino code to listen on the Nissan CAN bus and setup basic filtration to NOT show messages destined to known ID's (the things broadcast under normal conditions like coolant temp). For me these are ID's 0x160, 0x180, 0x1f9, 0x182, 0x580, 0x551 and 0x6e2. Connect the ELM32 Bluetooth adapter to the diagnostic (OBD) port which I know works with the Android software on my phone which talks Nissan Consult 3 protocol ... no easy suite of OBD2 for me unfortunately. Go about connecting via the Android application to the dongle and ECM whilst 'sniffing' the CAN network via the Arduino. Turns out there are commands that need to be sent before you can query the parameters successfully, annoying. Go about logging data for a specific metric one at a time if possible via a custom 'dashboard' in the Android app. For example I setup a dash with ONLY the gas pedal position ... in the Arduino serial debug I can see the CAN messages that are being sent by the Android app as well as the reply from the ECM. Make note of the request payload and all of the responses plus what real world value they correspond with. For example to get the gas pedal position I know the request is sent to the ECM diagnostic ID of 0x7DF and the payload is {0x03, 0x22, 0x12, 0x0D, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00}. For this Nissan generation the ECM replies to ID 0x7E8 with the requested info. An example of the data recorded which allows a formula to be worked out is as below ... you will see the actual values are represented in the bytes that change ... for this metric its bytes 4 and 5 (starting at 0, from the left): 0.67v is represented by {0x05,0x62,0x12,0x0D,0x00,0x86,0x00,0x00} 1.05v is represented by {0x05,0x62,0x12,0x0D,0x00,0xD2,0x00,0x00} 1.50v is represented by {0x05,0x62,0x12,0x0D,0x01,0x2C,0x00,0x00} 2.23v is represented by {0x05,0x62,0x12,0x0D,0x01,0xBE,0x00,0x00} 2.81v is represented by {0x05,0x62,0x12,0x0D,0x02,0x32,0x00,0x00} 3.06v is represented by {0x05,0x62,0x12,0x0D,0x02,0x63,0x00,0x00} 3.70v is represented by {0x05,0x62,0x12,0x0D,0x02,0xE3,0x00,0x00} 4.03v is represented by {0x05,0x62,0x12,0x0D,0x03,0x26,0x00,0x00} 4.26v is represented by {0x05,0x62,0x12,0x0D,0x03,0x54,0x00,0x00} 4.42v is represented by {0x05,0x62,0x12,0x0D,0x03,0x75,0x00,0x00} 4.82v is represented by {0x05,0x62,0x12,0x0D,0x03,0xC3,0x00,0x00} So from there you can try and work out how its representing the 'real' value in the data. This is quite the ball ache to be fair !! I used Chat GPT like any good geek to try and avoid fully understanding what I am doing and it got fairly close. In the end the learning from trying to get Chat GPT to do it allowed me to manually muck around with the data and come up with the formula. Good job if you are still reading I won't keep you in suspense any longer, the calculation is (the cool shades guy is an 8 then a right bracket hah): int raw_value = (buf[4] << 😎 | buf[5]; float voltage = raw_value / 200.0; If we take our value of 4.26v buf[4] is 0x03 and buf[5] is 0x54 this would be effectively concatenating the hex values to get 0x0354 (in hex) which is 852 in decimal ... 852 / 200 = 4.26 ta daaaaaaaaa !! Anyhooooo some pictures are below and my source code can be had at the link below also ... its starting to get pretty wild, needs a big refactor at some stage !! https://github.com/david-morton/BMW_E46_Gauge_Cluster_Control

To clarify, a dog leg box would have first where second is, and reverse where first is. Usual trick is people putting it into reverse at stop lights, instead of first.

Thanks for helping and being nice 🤗

You'll get to love it

What? Yours isn't sold yet?

The Topaz Blue 540 is now sold and off next month to its new home in Christchurch. I painted the rear bumper again myself and the result came out good.

Time for a bit of an update... The OxfordG 525 turned out very nice and has now been sold to a lucky recipient, excluding my labour I even turned a very rare $299 profit lol... If it weren't for the fact that the X3 is the ideal daily for my work/play at the moment it would not have gone anywhere... Being rather time poor I farmed out the painting of the Topaz 540 to a mate of a mate who did come well regarded... the result was OK, but there is a bit of orange peel correction to be done at some point. It has been assembled, a replacement windscreen fitted, WOF'd and the a/c regassed. Lots of other stuff has been done when assembling such as rear parcel tray re-dye and interior clean, rear windscreen trim, side trims, M5 mirrors. Things to do include repairing an assembly scratch on the rear bumper I just can't unsee, perhaps alloy wheel refresh and new tyres maybe. I can't make up my mind which 540 msport to sell so I just may advertise both and see which one goes first... As a refresher this 2002 topaz one has had a fair bit done, just review this thread... timing chain guides and all stuff in there is the main feature (as is with the Biarritz too), and now the paint and interior. If anyone is interested now in either the 99 Biarittz Individual 540 or the 02 Topaz 540 then please message me. Prices negotiable and will depend on how much more I throw at these cars.... and I can fully expand on the extensive work done... The dark M5 style 65 wheels on Biarittz will not be sold, which ever car sells will come with style 66's as pictured. Oh yeah.. in other news, a 2000 e38 740i Msport has found its way here... much to be done in the e39/8 rescue centre... although my business model /community service of "buy cheap / spend heaps / sell for a massive loss" I realise is unsustainable... just ask the missus... 😂

Heya Only driven in and out of the garage a couple of times. Never owned a BMW before. Does anyone have any tips on using the dogleg box? Specifically reverse, I feel like I am doing something wrong, goes in but not easy. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.