mr E34

Try this site for your formula. http://www.bgsoflex.com/bestheader.html The problem is fitting something at the right length.

Allegedly a home made dyno.(TP)

Mr E34's 535is, stock N/A M30b35 engine/stock Motronic 1.3, running Map-Ecu2 piggyback in MAF elimination mode (no AFM, MAP based) Custom fuel/timing map on BP Ultimate 98. Long run stainless headers. POWER @ Wheels 140.7kw (188.7hp), Dyno Dynamics roller dyno in Shootout mode.

If you use those adj regulators might pay to put a 3.6v or 4.2v zener diode across the output once you have set the pot to 3v, use an accurate digital meter & seal the pot with a dab of nail varnish so it doesn't change with vibration etc. The zener diode is cheap protection, if the voltage goes too high it switches on & clamps the voltage.Ask at Jaycar how to hook it across the output if you can't find info.

Hi Guys, have available @NZ$115 (cost price, no markup) E34 M5 partition unit.This was fitted to the M5 & cleverly shortened the visual length of the gear area, has handy storage on both sides of shift lever & the section in front holds mobile phone etc without it sliding around. From an artistic view it centres the eye on the important manual box & looks the business,pictures below on my car. Colour is BLACK, for right hand drive manual vehicle...note: Black LEFT hand drive is no longer available so in time R/H drive will not be available. Genuine BMW part. Simply pushes in/clips to std gear console. ONLY A COUPLE OF UNITS AVAILABLE. Original flat surround Vs storage surround.

Unfortunately it's not as good as the M30 BMW built it's reputation on the straight 6 engine.

The bottom end to mid (around 4700rpm) is really good, the 12kw gain UNSTRAPPED vs 1kw STRAPPED is unusual, be more inclined to believe the 12kw.(16hp gain).. cam sensor playing havoc? Removing the wheels & bolting direct to a Dynapack hubb dyno might give you another comparison,(take out the strapping of wheels anomaly) every test on my car: Dyno Dynamics Roller Vs Dynapack has been in the 6.5kw to 8kw range in favour of the hubb dyno. No difference between Gavins or APT roller dyno in shootout mode. Suggest you fix the cam sensor fault & wait for Gavins new vanos software to get absolute max gains from your engine/headers package. Auto drivetrain loss is suggested at 25% so you are well above stock.

That engine put down around 133kw didn't it Brent? If that had a proper remap done now it should be WELL above that old figure.., buy it back?

If you need it i have the Motronic 1.3 schematics (down to component level) + the explanation on how it all works. Be careful shorting those coil driver wires, you can damage the output stage in the ECU.Still reckon it's a mistake incorporating the power driver stages in the ECU, Bosch/Siemens should have external drivers which can be replaced easily.

Have a scroll thru Alpina Australia dyno results, give you a wide cross section of POWER@WHEELS. Beware of any flywheel estimates. All results vary slightly, even getting the engine/box/diff at max operating temp makes a difference.(reduce drivetrain losses) http://www.alpinaaustralia.com.au/dyno/dyno_main.htm

The suede or leather are US$409 + all costs. edit... check your list.

Just get all the dopey plastic/metal screw swirl flaps removed before they fall apart in the inlet tract & grenade your engine/turbo.

Bet you are rapt with that purchase, fantastic looking car! MTech 2 is a stunner, 20yrs old & still shows up other cars. Some people reckon 16" Alpina's look better on the E30, look around & judge for yourself? The only thing i would do is fit a MTech2 steering wheel in either leather/suede with Tri-colour stiching & matching gear knob.(again must have Tri-colour stitching) Gear selection cap on knob top would have again Tri-colour emblem but not the centre M...just my opinion, which doesn't mean much on this forum.....

Might pay you to register with e36 website & check out their performance mods section to be sure etc. www.e36coupe.com

That's obvious Glenn, the point i was making was when you buy the building the repayments will start high (rent to the bank in repayments) but in time as the principle is reduced your payments will reduce. The rent you pay yourself as the owner is another matter.

When turnovers drop it is the overheads that kill you, have a look at rents/RATES on commercial buildings. That's why i recommend buying your own premises if it's a long term venture, pay the bank your 'Rent' & when you leave you own the building. edit.. over time as your Rent to the bank reduces your debt obviously your Rent (repayments) will decrease, can't get out of the rates though.

Thought all you budding performance chaps might have an interest in these articles. Have a look at the Mi16 engine.(Peugeot) http://www.pumaracing.co.uk/

It all depends on how much money this is worth to you, big money? Maybe contact Mark Lowndes, Lowndes & Associates. You may end up with a big legal bill, not worth it?

And MTec 2 wins HANDS DOWN over 1 plus the entire front end shell was redesigned for improved safety on Tech 2.

Just some friendly advice, replace the first 4 photo's on TradeMe with 'nice shots' & remove all reference to condensation.

Ever considered putting a complete MTech 2 kit like the M325i on your new car?

Thanks guys, you could release a few more KW's doing the exhaust but as you chaps know it is the law of diminishing returns with N/A, spend a lot for a measly 1,2 or 3 kw.(stock exhaust is twin 50mm, Wayne checked it) That engine would be at it's max as a stock air pump. Brent you have my phone number if you wanted a set up, i think Gavin's B10 was auto so you would have to factor in more drive train loss. Graham (Apex), who knows what the flywheel power is, nobody can tell you exactly,(no tuner will put his name to any fantasy figures) you would have seen plenty on the dyno in your time, how's the Renault? Still love it? To give you Bimmer chaps some idea, this engine started at 112kw, all the intake was cleaned(throttle body etc etc)ultrasonic cleaning of injectors, new AFM,set up valve train clearance, delivered 123.5kw.(Rob @ Bavarian did all this for me) The morale of the story is don't just dyno & tweak without getting all the basic requirements done first, all your injectors & intake system have seen a few miles & 20yrs old etc. Talk to cruncy on Bimmer, he knows alot about engines & has seen different types/configurations. Simon,the boat anchor delivers more power/TORQUE than a 2.7/2.8 ltr M20 with worked internals at a fraction of the cost.

Maybe you should consider just buying an E46 M3??

Thanks, especially for an old boat anchor that everyone takes the piss out of.

Hi Guys, fitted stainless headers to the boat anchor M30b35 engine...................................... It would now be the most powerful stock N/A(internal) 9.0:1 engine. Power@wheels 140.7kw (188.7HP) E34 535is is very fast & torquey, rear drive with near on 190HP @ wheels, very quick! Thanks to MapEcu (Performance Motor Research) & Jason (APT) for the dyno run.