mr E34

Sister car to mine & Pauls(kiwi535).....all built around the same time. Low cost performance 4 door saloon. edit... possibly missing rear M skirt bumper...someone with better vision may confirm.

AFM are removed (on ALL older cars)because the flap system is slow to respond & is a major restriction to the air flow...thats why you now have hot wire systems...even the M3 CSL (E46) went to MAF. Some options are as follows: Remap the existing ECU on a rolling road dyno. Remove AFM & piggyback Map-Ecu 2 (MAF system) on to existing motronic & rolling road tune (Map-Ecu 2- GO KIWI'S, NZ DESIGNED) http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....showtopic=16177 Fit complete aftermarket ECU...not worth it for a stock 2.5 M20

Just think Alpina Gus......something a bit different than the usual stuff over here.

Those were Alpina's latest 20 spoke which appeared on the E46....count the spokes 20...copies have 19.Don't see what all the fuss is about, just another E46, 1 of 4 million.

Like camb said, what are the goals/budget.......costs a lot of money for small gains on an N/A engine......basics are bore out throttle body, fit a set of Waynes stainless equal length headers + rolling road remap or piggyback, or just change the diff ratio for quicker accel.

Of course...no AFM..didn't you read it all edit.. or just use existing ecu like my setup & piggy back Map-Ecu for management, second best after full ecu replacement.

Someone in the racing fraternity should buy/build something like this for the open class. http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/870354.htm Hi-Tek, this is the type of intake system you may be interested in for your car...hi volume air flow.

It is a Motorsport....

Thorney motorsport UK have done a lot of development on the CSL for racing, their car puts out 400HP (flywheel)..they developed a fantastic set of headers /exhaust with partners Supersprint...the headers + remap gave 25hp, they developed their own cams (Schrick cams)...they are also making double layer carbon fibre panels/bumpers etc because of the BMW prices. www.thorneymotorsport.co.uk

They also advertise on ebay Aust.......still trying to find out more....the picture looks like left hand drive Racing Dynamics headers....he says delivery for R/H early Feb. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/BMW-e9-e12-e24-e28-...A1%7C240%3A1318

TBMW project car: E39 523i.... M50 manifold, bore throttle body,remap ecu.... gained 37Hp @ flywheel & 20 lbs/ft. Power/torque curve has solid gain from idle to redline...worth doing for sure. Power 207.5hp Torque 179.9lbs/ft ....with the new manifold & remap it's much more like driving a 528i....stepoff from standstill is improved too, easier to drive in traffic....work carried out by Chipped UK.

To measure quiescent current (background drain)i.e. current drain when vehicle in shut down mode, disconnect +ve terminal from battery & set your digital meter to AMPS DC, put the positive multimeter lead on the +ve battery terminal & the -ve multimeter lead to the +ve cable that was connected to the battery....the reading should come up like 0.2 as an example....this means it is drawing 200ma...which is 1 fifth of an AMP, if it read 0.1 that is 100ma.It shouldn't draw much current at all. I don't know what most cars draw on standby,will vary considerably..someone will have a rough idea. edit. your battery must be on the way out unless it just needs a good long charge.

You could always pm morerevsm3 on bimmer, he is in Aussie also with a modded E36 M3, seems to know alot about them.

Already posted. http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....showtopic=15694

That dealer has some good cars at sharp prices. Seen the 1 onr NZ new E39 M5, thats a good buy! http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-190524264.htm (hope Crockett don't mind the thread addition)

MTec 2 leather or suede (depending on car interior) with Tri-Colour stitching, matching Tri-Colour stitched gear knob.No other garish crap.

As Glenn said, be careful with those hot wire systems, when you turn off your car they normally put thru a quick burst of increased voltage to burn off any crap. As for dyno before/after,waste of time/ money if you have faults, get everything addressed first....not sure if this is any help but in the latest TBMW mag they talk about the E39 M5 afm being a weak point, faulty units cause big pwr drop offs...................these two(2x units on M5) small plastic tubes are the key to the M5 & with new ones it's like having another 100hp!

Voltage is number 1 when running any electronics, main rail @ 12volts, this is then reduced by regulators to say 5volts or 3.3volts....if the input (12v) drops too low then your regulated rails will also drop causing malfunction.

I was looking at some BMW gear from the UK, gearboxes are available. 5 speed manual 650 GBP (M60) 6 speed manual 750 GBP (M60) sea freight to NZ 250 GBP let me know if interested & i will point you to the supplier.

If it says 95, use 95 or 98.....why ask dopey questions.

Brent is correct on the Panasonic, years ago they bought out a plasma company that was on their millionth(you get the idea) generation screen, they were well ahead of most of the other companies (generation wise). I started electronics on some early valve tellies & then as K9's, Pye & english stuff........the modern CRT tube can still give a superb picture.

Yeah & after all that you have to go thru the whole vehicle & do all the deferred maintenance.....with that mileage if the engine hasn't had some top end work etc you will have to spend $$...when you take on an old classic you have to commit yourself to the project.

Found the invoice $213.48 + GST.....Key (with remote & coded).

Bavarian supplied a new spare for the E36 318is for approx $240-$250(over 12mths ago).You young guys probably blow that amount on a night out with a few birds, so why worry.

A couple on Pistonheads for more pix. A nice car but again conservative BMW used a std 2.5ltr engine, not enough pwr/trq. http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/list.asp?p=1&s=397