*Glenn*

When doing a compression test on any twin cam (hemi type) head engine, you should loosen the plugs and run the engine first to get rid of any carbon the falls from around the plug. This often gets trapped under the valve seats and creates a slight loss of compression on any particular cylinder at cranking speed. Common practice should be to do this on any engine. The test should also be done with WOT. BTW: Jason.. Dynamic compression tests are not measured in the manor you have described. It is done with the engine running. We can also do it with our scanner by measuring cylinder smooth running in live data

Try Gavin @ High Velocity

Fenix Trade Co., Ltd. Street Address: 05/first floor Zhongren Plaza, 34 Shahe Rd, Tianhe, Guangzhou City: Guangzhou Province: Guangdong Country/Region: China (Mainland)

How did it all go ???

Get it scanned to determine the fault correctly

I do the same

Far too old Andy... those things were f**ked when they were 12 months old... I had the privilege of trying to hold a fleet of them together for Philips & Impey Glass in Newmarket 25-30 years ago

Would love to see the build pictures Brent

That's bloody nice

Not really Brent, just that my priorities and interest have changed over the past 3 years.

A picture of the radiator you have purchased and your old radiator would help.

No... BNT in Botany..about $70.. for 1 US quart of each. I mixed it 50/50

I know it's a long shot and this is a BMW forum (I think) Just putting it out there just in case someone might be selling. I'm after a 6-7 meter, diesel powered camper in good mechanical and body condition. Open to all makes etc and I know what I want and what is available on the web at the moment, most of which is sh*t for the stupid asking prices. Winter will bring down prices and get people & dealers to be sensible about what they have.

I've just done the Redline mix in my car today... thrashed it all the way home...> no rattle. Looking good so far

Get your friend to ring me in the morning (09) 2722546

Would you like to buy some chicken teeth instead Andy ? Just as rare

If you have forward drive, you'll need to get it to a trans shop or second hand box from Ray maybe

That's what I do too. It's also happening on my photography forum

http://www.stuff.co.nz/sport/motorsport/9642007/Schumacher-unlikely-to-regain-all-faculties

Ewwwwwwww and the ingish

Link not working Allan

You can't correct them by resurfacing them if they are warped. New covers really at about $800 each or go second hand

You will probably find it still rattles after a vigorous drive. Mine is quiet until DRIVEN, then rattles at idle.... what is the mileage on the car ? BTW: it should be driven not idled anyway. Drive it like you stole it and keep your foot on the clutch at the lights.. no biggie really... and don't park it anywhere in neutral idling.

I've got the rattle as well... it's quite common

Did you read this Darren ?? http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/flywheel/gear_rattle.htm