*Glenn*

No disrespect intended.... but you don't know what yourve got yourself into with that. There is a hell of alot more to it than mounts. You will need to do a hell of alot of research. Some of it will be wrong and you'll end up spending sh*t loads.

It's the run flat system. There are a couple of different versions for resetting Google : BMW 320 reset run flat And select which is relevant to your car and follow the proceedure

Have a great Day Simon From Glenn & the Team

You need to do your own maths and research. I'm only selling some engine parts and it's pick up only. I havent got time to frigg around wrapping , posting, or organising freight. BTW: The M54 block went out in alloy scrap. This lot will probably end up there too

Who ever looks at it will need it overnight to diagnose both of your problems though. You appear from your description to have two issues which I'm sure are unrelated

A bit hard to watch what your touching in a confined area with a screwdriver in one ear with your head turned to the left or right. Getting tangled up in belts etc is not a good look inside an engine bay with a customer looking over your shoulder

When coils fail on these motors it is best to change all of the coils. You will probably find you'll end up doing one after the other.

Too many variables. You would need alternator make (Valeo, Bosch), part number and amp output to get correct part you want. Thats if the parts are available.

As far as I know, Sam never resolved the problem and has since sold the car

I've still got my carburettor vacuum/flow guage in my tool box and my side valve guide punch.... and my brake shoe / clutch lining riveter... how things have changed

http://www.bmwgm5.com/E46_Relays.htm

A number of people lately have been asking about noises from their vehicles. One of the best tools you can have in your tool box is a stethescope. You can either use the probe (touch end) or use it with the open end of the tube for identifying the sourse of noises. There are many types, including electronic. Can be used everywhere, engine bay, cabin, suspension, steering, drive train etc. Heres a selection: The most common ones used by technicians is the third along the top of the selection. You can buy them from most tool suppliers in NZ http://www.google.co.nz/search?q=automotiv...440&bih=672

The first cam sensor is for exhaust with no loom & plug, the second is for inlet with loom & plug attached. You need to know which is faulty from the scanner and replace the appropriate sensor with a new "O" ring. Clear fault codes & adaptions, road test and recheck.

Bit hard to tell on the video clip, but possibly a tensioner or idler bearing. The running rough cold is probably unrelated. I suggest you get both problems checked out properly

And why not ??? The GM V6 is a very strong torquey engine and can be modded to produce reasonable figures. Probably more reliable than the power plant it replaced.

BUMP $400

It will probably just need a relay... you will need to get it checked out Where abouts are you from , so we can offer you some suggestions ?

Kerry is a member here. I had heard he built this engine up kerrynzl

Ooops... just remembered ... must be non ASC if poss

Thanks Brent

^^^ My theory as well..however some people in the "know" say it's possibly the flywheel. Thats why I want to try a Manual 328i Siemens DME for a M52B28 if anyone has got one

Happy Birthday Shelly Where ya been ?? It's been 5 months since you were last here

Mine has been recoded. The idle is fine, but a tad slow at times coming back to idle. It maybe the light flywheel. I'm still trying to get my hands on a Siemens DME for a manual 328i to try, but it's not that much of a concern to really worry about.

UUC in the States. Thats where I got my flywheel. They do clutch kits as well http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/flywheel/index.htm

I missed that... I didn't read the whole post