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Everything posted by *Glenn*
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With your turbo set up, I'd go for something a little better than a standard clutch and wouldn't even consider second hand. It's likely to just start slipping again. Talk to a clutch specialist down your way to see what they can offer you. You would need a pressure plate with a higher clamping pressure than a standard one. You could also check with Auto Clutch up here in Auckland. What condition is the flywheel in ??
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Heaps on "Google" Just punch in M40 Cambelt replacement
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Second hand or new only. New are expensive as E39 regs are sold with motors. Try ray @ HELLBM
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^^ Your right to. The Auction listing that James won has a - before the word supercharger. I wonder if thats a spelling mistake or deliberate
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You guys also need to take into consideration that the owners car is also a convertable. It's an M3 Cab. It has less space in the boot area.
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xyonp = xy...on...p ..... says it all
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140,000 miles = 225,000km
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I would need to see & check it first
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I could repair that for you
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Just the electro chromatic glass new is $900 +Gst
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Have a great day Tony From Glenn & the Team
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Have a great day Lucan From Glenn & the Team
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Broken rocker arms probably = broken cambelt & bent valves as well... which would = cheap
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The SRS (airbag) system may have a fault. It would need to be scanned... a hard fault will not reset. You would need to carry out the repair first.
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You could also try Chris @ Suspension Tech here in Auckland. If he can't I'm sure he'll know who can help you with those. Ph. (09) 2731232 Or 0272145325
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Have a great day Steve From Glenn & the Team
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Check this out http://www.stuff.co.nz/national/6017775/Ch...land-waterfront
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I would use a 10w40 semi synthetic or 5w40 full synthetic....we use ELF products Oil filter is dependant on year or alloy top with bolt or plastic screw on top ?? Alloy top with bolt is 11 42 1 730 389 Black plastic screw top is 11 42 7 512 300
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Custom work is required to your existing front exhaust pipe and to the rear manifold to clear the steering shaft
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Have a great day Mark From Glenn & the Team
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No... sorry we don't open on the weekend. I work 7-4.30 Monday to Thursday & 7-4.00 on Fridays.
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Try Gavin @ Euro Italian our sponsor on the forum Ph. (09) 4449817... or BM Workshop in Grey Lynn should have the cam kits & the lifters ask for Nick (09) 3761250
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You can't manualy bleed the lifters. I would check oil pressure first. You should have at least 20lbs @ idle and 80lbs @ 3,000rpm. The problem is that airated oil will still give you a pressure reading, but airated oil will not pump up the hydraulic lifters. It's the same as having air in the brake hydraulics. The only way to check the sump gasket is to remove the sump. If we did a cam kit or valve grind on a M40 we would remove the sump and do the gasket as well to gurantee our work and the parts used. It might also pay to remove the rocker cover after running it and crank it over without starting it and check that you are getting a good oil supply to the valve gear. You might even detect the airated oil while doing this. If the valve gear does have wear, you could be wasting your time as the lifters only have a small operating height. That is why the valve stem heights are critical when doing a valve grind and the cam lobes and rocker arms should not have wear in them. The oiler tube must also be thoroughly clean and squirting oil on all 8 cam lobes.
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How long did you have it running ?? They need a little time to bleed. If thats not the case it will be wear in the valve gear or oil supply. The sump gaskets are renowned for cracking around the oil pick up port, which then supplies airated oil. Airated oil will not pump up a hydralic lifter.