hotwire

Graeme, Cant say Ive struck it but maybe a suspect earth in the rear lamp assy otherwise maybe a faulty lamp failure module in the boot - left side inner guard

Name tag (lower left) has the ratio in straight forward read, probably need to clean up first to be able to read it

Strange! Are you sure the fuse was infact blown? You said the lights were still going but also that you had already confirmed a bad connection for the camera -explaining it not working?? Pull the fuse out & check lights - you will then confirm the circuit

If its a facelift car it will be an M40 engine - looks like this...

Yes purple/white wire in red plug is switched power. Yes to connecting to ground wire as long as it is true earth (brown wire) or to car body

Not sure you would notice difference, be negligible anyway

If the latch is locked - from memory you should be able to duplicate the locking actuator (where the linkage would connect to to release the lock) then push the button. Otherwise drill out the barrell & release that way. I can supply replacement lock/key assy if you require.

In as username - bit of catching up to do I see!

Yep will do, front pipe flange is 4 stud on Motronic whereas 3 stud on Ljet, but will bolt up to head OK

Re stacker - yes Apine but BMW specific & yes in the boot L/H side by the amplifier. Re Tuner: To early to reprogramme (2000 onwards) PM Jochen - he usually has or can get the replacement Euro tuner to fit in place of Jap unit to match our frequency.

Now back to Done!

Classic car alright! - Have a real mint 78 car but 520i. Strange that Africa still buit the E12 well into the eighties when we had long had the E28.

No more involved than that, Motronic use different manifolds, (you can leave exhaust though) engine loom, need to remove distributor & fit oil pump drive/blanking plate (from motronic engine) in place of. Dismantle front of engine, swap cam gear, water pumps, fit motronic distributor drive assy/ crank pully/crank angle sensor/timing cover/ AFM. With engines out - a couple of hours work to change over

Yes it is possible to convert L jet to motronic & vice versa (have done myself) Engine ID - Look mid way down L/H side of block (under intake manifold) - has year of manufacture in casting. Look on L/H (I think from memory) side along bottom of block (just above sump) there is a flat section in the casting with engine details imprinted within. If not on left then obviously check right

Were the new keys you had cut copied from a worn original or were they computer cut from the key number stampe in the original key? If just copied from a worn key you end up with the same problem. When fitting a replacement barrell you can get a locksmith to rekey the barrell to suit your key - thus retaining one key to operate the car. Can supply a barrell & key if you require

Best to go by car instruction, surely manufacturer has calculated ideal milage/interval. Doesnt specifically need dealer but you may want to start with clean sheet with appropriate vehicle service /service reset

Sharp alright! Yea did notice the stonechips - they do detract. Yes definitely to angel eyes but be selective - some of those aftermarket E36 lamps look crap! Maybe get the rings to add inside existing lamps

Both L/H indicators dont work or just rear when problem is present?

If you have some mechanical nouse then OK for DIY, straight forward but be methodical taking care of timing mark alignment & belt tension. If unsure of it's age then definitely water pump at the same.

By "O" are you meaning a red light along the botton towards the right of the dash with an "O" & broken or solid lines around it? If so it is one of the brake warning lights -handbake, fluid level or brake linings Either way - nothing to do with inhibitor switch

The inhibitor switch/ reverse light switch is in the base of the shifter lever assy, inhibitor probably been bypassed due to failure -hense starting in any position. A 1/2 hr job to change shifter over, 3/4 max - certainly not $300. The unit is non servicable & yes should fail a WOF in that condition - A: dangerous to start in gear & B: reverse lights if fitted must operate. I can supply a shifter assy $35 with a guide of fitting if required PM or 027 6146607

Ratshit service -I would be having them on re the oil as well at least, & ask what they will do if the "knock" returns? If they looked the same & seemed to screw on fine (without comparing thread pitch) then how were you to know it was wrong?

Hi & welcome. As Yuen said - try cleaning, they can go smokey on the inside (particually Jap origin cars) The pre angel eye lamps are very easy to remove & dismantle, also buffing the outside to remove any dulling of the polycarbonate. A clear lens makes a BIG difference to light output. When clean - these lights are very good. Not sure what bulbs are in the early cars - my 99 had standard HB3 & HB4 bulbs which I changed to zenon ultra version HB3 & HB4 - still same bulb & wattage but a whiter/blue light As for angel eyes - I got a set about 18 months ago from the states off Ebay (Taiwanese made CCFL type) These are just the rings in which you dismantle the lamp assy to fit them & wire the inverter to the existing park light wiring. This set has inverters that replicate the current draw of the standard park light bulb thus avoiding lamp failure prompt on the dash. Did have one inverter die recently but got a replacement directly from the manufacturers in Taiwan easy enough. Infact they sent me a whole replacement set of lights.

Andrew - just add an oil pressure sender (switch type, not guage one) into the system & use it to earth a buzzer. I assume you are running a pressure guage? If so just tee in an extra sender as well or if you are still running oil light you can use that sender & put a diode in line to stop feedback. You can also buy adjustable pressure senders (better as you can set the pressure higher) so that you can alter switching pressure according to needs. Ign supply to a buzzer that will earth through switch until pressure is reached.

Mine is crap too & it took about 30 sec to load the speed test page! 497 down & 137 up Did a second test: 858 down & 137 up