hotwire

Couldn't agree more. Great watch

Are you sure you bled it properly? They can be a bitch! I normally 2/3 fill the system, (also make sure heater is on hot) open the bleed screw & run until thermostat opens. Then fill the system & recheck when cold. Was it ok before the HG? If so - unlikely to be the radiator

Looks nice, price seems fair to me. GLWS. You only recently purchased it - didn't you?

Likely the regulator but not necessarily. Have you checked the fan belt not loose/slipping? - will cause that symtom. Could also be a phase out in the stator/rectifier circuit. Also make sure you have no voltage drop on the battery supply to the alt.

Ok, check plug connections on ign switch & input/output voltages. Main supplies/earths Get the ABS & Air Bag circuits scanned

My suggestion is to get it checked by a sparky - initially scan the circuits. Could be for one of several reasons & easier to diagnose the car than try to explain all the varialbles /checks

I don't need another but it would be a complete waste to scrap it. Coupes are getting a little thin on the ground now. With respect though, I do suggest you may be a little high @600 considering it's state of dismantle. Surely someone at your end of the country can find a home for it - either spares or a project

Also love the go fast gauges on the dash. Quite sad really .....

Ala E30 racing here

A prize is something to keep though Jon

Haven't compared an M40 unit to M10, if the mounts are the same - they will interchange. If not, from memory M10/M20 units are the same, I can supply a serviced M20 unit if needed. PM me

323i - a detuned 2.5l - whatever....

Probably as you have been told - Lifters Could try an engine flush, replace oil (correct oil, not thicker) If no fix then - lifter replacement

Nice looking car there. Do fix it! As you have alreay noticed - E39's are a magic car, but in comparison to the Toyota - way more complicated & advanced - meaning... more to go wrong. And things do. That said, when maintained - they are a reliable car. It is badged as a 525i being that it is Jap spec. This actually more true to label than the the Euro spec where the same 2.5l is badged as 523i Your list is realitively minor & really I doubt the 3k fix. -Front sway bar links - been there at 120k, replace both - about $100 from Milland on TM. Simple job -Headlight adjusters - been there too, common plastic failure, easy fix to those pre facelift lights, maybe Milland or not expensive from dealers. Replace the adjusters. Braxtons are for replacement lamps, don't know that they do the adjusters -Rear suspension - not major -Tyres - thats life with any car -Steering rack leak, a little surprising & not that I have noticed as common. Ray (HellBM) maybe for a good S/H If it has pixel failure for the milage display (again common) there is a guy down your way that supplies/fits a new ribbon to them. Very cost effective Has the "E39 shimmer" gone away? Another common issue with these cars after the milage gets up - front suspension components - track arm bushes etc Do you know the cooling system history, apart from radiator? Plastic components & water pump are due if not done already. There is a link to an E39 review guide on this site somewhere, have a look at that Edit Here: http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index.php?showtopic=7327

Agree entirely, 525i (Jap badging for 523i) is no rocket ship but still no slug - as people often alert to them being. 520i is realitively but then not everyone needs or aspires to drive a 540i. That said, doesn't mean I wouldn't want a mint 540i or even better - M5

Sounds like a gear drive issue inside. Would probably require disassembly to diagnose.

Nup, build date of car will indicate what it has

What is the build date of the car?

A short in the R/H circuit likely.

Spot on for likeness Josh

or Powerstop Engineering in Tauranga. Guys name is Rob

So what Jon - you want two verts?

Very sad to hear, even though it was innevitable. As mentioned - his enthusiasm for events was immense. You will be missed Brian

Hat off to you guys. System has developed well from the last stage I saw it at. Me - envious of your skills

Have already done the sway bar drop arms - more of a knock noise when going over rough terrain. You should be able to feel the loose joint. Have got another noise (rattle/squark) in ours that I have yet to confirm the problem - a quick look showed nothing obvious - which reminds me... Have been there with the caliper noise - squark when braking. Was the pad locator had come adrift from the pad.