hotwire

Ummm... nup sorry BTW, the link to my car on my second post - NO - I did not take the pics. I haven't got quite that obcession with it, however the author of that website does & that was the result of his visit to these shores last year. Edit, just realized - didn't link correctly, have just changed it

Yup sure are now Here's one of the few in the country http://e12.assertion.de/palette/de/vin/ser...30/02a2xl99.htm

Got some on my car but you're not getting them Try PM'ing Darryl (rxsumu on here), he has some E12 parts

Could well be just the regulator inside the alt. If so - definitely worth repairing. Replace with a new OEM reg. Most auto sparkys have access to. They are electronic & like anything electronic - can last 5 mins or forever. Glenn, regarding batteries - the OEM Varta batteries are usually good for 10yrs & sometimes more from my experience with many. Agreed though, the local market units have a lot less longivity Edit: Auto Electrical Spares have a lot of unknown brand Asian sourced units, some I have had issues with over the years.

Ive seen hundreds in 30 yrs of working on ALL cars, probably mostly Japanese

From your description, it sounds as though you are guessing things. Can't rule anything out & again - being intermittent - you, as anyone, is guessing. Could be faulty pump, relay, wiring - if infact fuel related. Locking - get it checked by an auto sparky

Think you answered your own question!

Sounds like a can of worms... For a start the ASC light is probably a crook ABS module. Needs scanning/diagnosing The engine knock/dirty oil is a worry. PS reservior seepage leak - is common & runs dowm hoses. Not necessarily a problem. AC - unknown, but could be costly. Oil leaks - self explanitory. Factor in replacement of suspension/thrust arm etc bushes/sway bar links. Windscreen -is just a trim - the screen is glued in

Had the same with my race car when the windscreen leaked. Dry it out completely (covers off) in hot water cupboard or similar & you may get out of jail with it. Hardly worth converting to Motronic - quite an effort for any little gain.

Why not the forum sponsor on here - Euro Itallian BNT, Repco - 3 options - Easy!

I must be lucky then, ours has been fine till now, that said - has just got to the 120k mark. How much ouch for the ABS module?

Only if machining wont put them below minimum thickness. Also, discs best machined on vehicle so needs someone with an on car lathe

Sorry Ray, it's an AM for me too - the DB5

^^^ Could but they would need to be bloody hard, almost metal

If the face of the lining is ok- it is likely old damage (metal/ metal) as suggested. You wll need to have the disc thickness checked to see if it can be machined flat & still maintain minimum thickness. If this is possible - machine both discs & replace pads (regardless of wear left in them) If below min - obviously new discs required.

Well done Glenn & others. This from someone who never has (apart from trying a couple when a teenager & hating it) & never will. I honestly can't see what the hell people like about it - from a naive point of view of course

Just as well the arrow head wasn't on the other end - pointing at the dipstick Now that would be stupid...

Nothing wrong with an E39 anymore than anything else. E46 M3 can have the same issues... and more

Gotta love your description of things Ashkan

^^^ Yup - just been there with mine. System showed no fault codes but car had intermittent no speedo with both lights coming on - ABS /traction. Monitoring current data showed R/H rear ABS sensor output intermittently failing (hence speedo dropping). Upon manual testing - the sensor specs confirmed ok, I confirmed the ABS unit randomly dropping the reference voltage output to the R/H sensor - confirming a module fault. It is a common miss diagnosis to blame a sensor in this situation when infact it is another issue - the systems need to be properly diagnosed. Confirming Glenn's statement of other variables. I sent my unit for repairs but it was not repairable - a brain fault . And to reconfirm coding requirements -YES they are indiviually programmed to the car - to the IKE (instrument cluster). I replaced with a brand new unit, it put out the ABS light upon fitting but not the traction - until it was coded to the car.

25 - missed the Vettel too...

Stunning example Ray. Hope it is sold to someone who keeps it in that condition

What next Sure would - my Plinius 100w class A amp is like a bloody heater in the summer

Tim, ULF is the best way to go - total integration. TCU does not give voice control nav, not sure what else as I haven ot had anything to do with these. Can't speak of ULF - Samsung compatibility but I would expect should be fine. I know it integrates with iphone. I have only retro fitted one ULF to a Jap import, (seen through a couple of others) the kit they supplied was not plug/play, I identified both systems & swapped the pins in the plug accordingly - deleting what was not required, cut the coding lug off the plug so that it would fit the ULF module. That said, with hindsight, I understand there is a more straight forward option of connecting straight to the car loom plug. You would still need to connect pairing wiring if you want to pair from inside the car. Give me a shout if you need any other help

Yumm love it, nicer lines than the sedan