M3AN

Can you isolate/eliminate the battery by jumping another one to it, or plugging it into to a high amp charger? If you did that, and the blower responded with more volume, then you'd know it was the battery. Right? Blower doesn't respond, your battery is fine, something else is borked?

Fugly car but quite an amazing spec and a great project, looking forward to any updates you choose to provide. And those wheels actually look epic on it. Not considering an N52? Join the fam?

I just got a compatible one off Amazon, it was years ago now though. Just research online, you'll find what you need.

I should have looked harder! 😇 I'm loving the IBBB, or is it an I3B, or ITB?

I think you're on a hiding to nothing I'm afraid, aren't the spacers also particular to the 3.0, further limiting the field? Did you email Schmiedmann? Probably worth a try for some used ones. And a post on M3Cutters might also open some UK/European channels.

Hang on a sec, isn't Carly an annual subscription now? If that's still the case then it's a rip-off, avoid. ISTA/INPA/DIS are not really "simple" solutions unless you buy a complete preconfigured setup, computer and all, and that's a risk in itself. For code reading and diagnostics you want BimmerLink: https://www.bimmerlink.app/ For coding you want BimmerCode: https://bimmercode.app/ Admittedly I've not checked any prices recently, things may have changed, do your own research of course.

I see this is still available, what did you spot in the engine bay? The fact that they've put an Ali "Fxx" pretend shifter on it doesn't bode well.

And what I find most regrettable is that it seems like there's no obvious redemption. All of the choices we have amount to pretty much the same thing don't they?

Hi there, I'm looking to sell a near new wireless Xbox controller with rechargeable battery, my understanding is that it works on devices from the Xbox One through to the latest Series X | S - it may work for older units but you'd need to verify this yourself. Controller - latest standard wireless controller from Microsoft in Carbon Black. This controller has been used to set up two consoles and never for gameplay (approx. 20mins use in total), it's in 'as-new' condition with no faults. Original box and papers included. Retail $99. Play & Charge Kit - this includes a high capacity rechargeable battery and a high quality 3 metre braided USB (A/C) charging cable, both from PowerPlay. This has only been used in the above controller so is also practically new. Retail $29. I'm looking for $100 for both, postage extra but collection from Epsom (or Newmarket) is easy enough for me.

Signed.

Yes, but get the motorsport ones, not the standard ones, part 33536858240 I think but verify yourself. And as above, do both L+R at the same time. Keep in mind that this will require removal of rear suspension so you probably want to verify your shocks, springs, and spring pads don't also need replacing. A mechanic can probably tell this with a visual inspection.

Smart move. Still has the same design flaw that BMW built in (it's a pattern part after all) so will eventually fail unless you clean it regularly but it's much smarter to use a low cost part for something that will be disposable than it is to pay BMW's extortionist prices. And in this case I'm happy to support IP piracy since BMW should have recalled this part and issued a design update for free, and certainly shouldn't be selling the same faulty part for the price they do.

@Angelo has done this if I recall correctly. I purchased a cheap shark fin style one from Ali and it didn't fit (too small), Chad on the other hand got one that fits, I'm not sure if reception is reduced. If you have the "fishing rod" long one, that's easy to replace with the shorter "sport" style, which is what I've now done.

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/m2/listing/4237427104 Needs more pics but at that price, it makes me wonder what I could get for my M3... a two decade upgrade for close to $0... hmm...

The white one also needs new rear suspension. But I tend to agree, it's a lot of car for 5.5k, how much is the manual gearbox itself probably worth?

I use these, no problem with WoF: https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-2852-stoptech-stainless-steel-brake-lines-e90e92e93e82-325i-328i-330i-335i-128i-135i/

I had a great experience with these guys a few years back, also close to you: https://www.mikestan.co.nz/contact.html For standard colours, if I was prepared to wait for them to do a big job in that colour, they gave me very, very good rates. I also went to Arkro on Porana Road but found them quite expensive, and there's also Perfect Colour on Porana Road but I've not used them.

@Antallica - as above, if you've removed the hub-centric rings on the car then you're in a woefully dangerous situation and you'll need entirely new hubs, they're essential for centring the wheel. If the wheels don't fit with the rings in place then you have the wrong wheels. If that's not what you chopped off then I don't understand, please elaborate.

I should put that on the list for the next time I need to do fluids.

Same. If you get sick of the way the paddles work hit me up, you can rewire them and even change the paddles themselves if you want.

@Danch - you were looking for a manual 130, this is a good one IMO.

Fortunately all NZDM and JDM models, even the LCI, have hydraulic steering, none of that electric crap. Is yours manual or auto?

Welcome Murray and that looks like a nice example. Don't be a stranger to the 130i thread...

You don't hear of many autos going pop, mine still seems sound at ~135k kms.

I wanted to give both a sad and a laughing emoji to this post.