M3AN

I have a lightly used set (4) of Nanking NS2R semi-slicks in 225/45/17 that I no longer need if they're of interest to you? Just over 5mm thread tread left on each. Let me know if they appeal.

Good idea, just make sure their phone is normally locked (fingerprint, PIN etc) as you don't want to provide another (additional) attack vector.

That's an interesting point and yes, very true if you're drop shipping something from/to somewhere that has VA, GS or Sales tax... And even worse, because that'll form part of the base cost it'll also be included in the NZ tax calculation so you're paying a tax on a tax (which tax rules normally try to prevent).

True but then you can just log on via a regular browser. You may hit a geo-block and if you need your phone for 2FA you're screwed but a call to the bank would sort that. Don't use an internet cafe (use your hotel's internet) and always use an incognito/private window to do your banking (even at home!). But I think your conclusions are sound and if you apply a little common sense it's easy to avoid the pitfalls.

Well, you only lose it if they crack your PIN, use NFC (small purchases) or fake your signature... but you don't really "load" cards unless you're taking a pre-paid debit card and I think that's unnecessary (and I'd never put $5k on one of those!). Just take your normal cards, or even better, ask the bank for a spare card that doesn't have NFC. Make sure your bank app is on your phone so you can suspend a card if you find it missing... or suspend all your cards until you need to use one then it doesn't matter if any are lost. Pickpockets will target anyone they can, some targets are easier than others, just keep your wallet safe all the time (front pocket, never rear) and you don't need to worry about them.

Impromptu family lunch at Wendy's Greenlane...

Take some Euro with you after converting it in New Zealand. Given that will probably be less that EUR1000 the actual exchange rate isn't going to make much of a difference (+/- NZ$10) so just go somewhere convenient after having a cursory look at rates online. Treat this as convenience money. Your bank may actually allow you to hold that in your account and get it out from cash machines over there when you need it (for a fee of course). NEVER EVER use a 'hole in the wall' exchange facility overseas, that's guaranteed to be the worst rate. Equally, you'll get raped for currency conversions at airports so don't do it there. Don't take any NZ$ to convert overseas, you'll get a better rate here (because NZ$ is more liquid here). Put everything you can on your credit card in the foreign currency (EUR) not NZ$ even if offered, you'll get screwed on exchange rate again (plus a foreign currency fee). i.e. some of the POS units will ask if you want the transaction changed in NZ$, always say no. If you need more cash (EUR) use a cash machine at an actual BANK (some cash machines over there are not run by banks and you have less protection as a foreigner) with your NZ EFTPOS card and either swallow the fee (~$5) or try and negotiate with your bank before you go to waive such fees (can be done). Make sure your EFTPOS card will work internationally (needs the Plus emblem on the back - otherwise talk to your bank). Cash advance using your credit card is the most expensive way to get money. Avoid.

I think the nut sits on the hub itself, could be pushing and pulling against the same thing... but I hadn't thought of that so I'll have a look today, thanks. ? I have borrowed a proper bearing puller set... we'll see if I get to use it. ?

I'm the kind that says "if you need a socket, buy a set" and I was hoping to avoid having to buy yet another set of sockets. I mean I could do worse of course, new tools and all. ? Propane is supplied as LPG, it's as good as it gets before you get to oxy-fuels, pretty much the same temp as butane (edit: and I realise I said I'd purchased a "butane" torch before, my bad). I forgot to mention it was a good excuse to get a new tool! The plan (before I started) was that the hubs would come off easily enough... I thought they'd be difficult but not rhino difficult. The axle is now free enough that it'll actually slide out the back side of the hub now with enough force so it's no longer any good to press (pull) against. Thanks! I've done most of that (pretty much by trial and error), puller against axle with (a lot of) tension on the hub and flame around the flange, flange was hot enough to make WD40 sizzle on application... no budge. And now the axle has loosened up and slides freely within the hub so can't be used for purchase. ? I'll try and wind them off, I think a bearing splitter should work as a backing plate if I can find a 80-100mm one for good value. Oh, AND A NEW TOOL! ???

Yes and yes, the 328, rear wheel bearings. ?? If we get a fine patch tomorrow I'll try and wind it out... and post updates in my beater thread.

No idea what it's worth but that 'cockpit' is to die for, f**k touchscreens, give me banks of buttons and dials.

Sorry for being unclear, yes, that's what I'm referring to. And also yes, the half shafts now slide in and out of the hub splines. Thank you. It's not actually a physical access thing (yet)... even if I take the lowermost bolt with 'free access' from under the car I only have a 1/4" drive ET12 socket and that's nowhere near strong enough to crack those buggers... a 3/8" may do it but I'm not convinced, feels 1/2" tight. ? Unfortunately extensions just reduce torque so until I can crack the bolts they're not going to help. I have heaps of room under the car at the moment. Keeping in mind this car appears to have lived in a swamp for many of its previous lives, I've sprayed them all, will see what eventuates. But the hubs have got to come off first because if I can't get them off, I don't need the axles out. ? Whoever eventually buys this is going to get a brand new car, built from the inside out...

Got the rotor off... lucky I still had the lug bolts still in there or it would have taken out my legs and perhaps the wall of the house, I think the sound of it cracking free ricocheted around the neighbourhood for about 20 mins. Time, penetrating lube, the puller (3 days of tension) and a rubber mallet. So, if the rotor is effectively welded on how do you expect the hub will be... ?? Can't use the puller on that because the axle has now broken free of the hub so nothing to purchase on. Got a butane edit: propane torch, that did nothing except cook the bearing that's in there. Looks like I'll need to get a backing plate and try and wind it off using the lugs but if that doesn't work then I think I'll just put it back together and take it to a workshop... although I have no idea what they'll try. I'm not event sure I'll be able to get the half-shafts out, they're certainly not going to come free from the diff so it'll have to be done an an assembly. Can't even fit a socket bigger than 1/4" drive onto the inner bolts of the axle so impossible to get enough torque to get them out. Very poor design. What a PITA.

I'm not sure which I like less, this slab-face or the buck teeth of the new X7er.

The hub is metal too. ? Any movement of either hub or rotor will be beneficial but it remains to be seen whether that'll happen.

That looks like it's come up real fine!

Look, you've broken it now. Send it me, I'll scrap it for you both.

Single piece pistons seem far smarter to me here, clearly the ceramic 'solution' in play is less than perfect.

Might be a smarter investment since I don't own one already. It's sitting with the puller tension on it outside overnight wrapped in plastic. If it gets cold enough that might crack it. Wheel bolts are loosely on so that if it does crack it doesn't fall off and hit the concrete at 0300 and wake all the neighbourhood dogs.

Cheers @325_driver, if nothing else the sympathy is comforting! I'm wondering if one of those $80 butane heat torches from Bunnings/Mitre10 are worth a punt, they say up to 400*C which I'd think would be good enough. Perhaps useful for future tasks also but I've never used one or even heard if they're any good at all.

One rotor just about fell off, the other one not so much... still stuck WTF?!? Won't even pull off... ideas? And yes, I've tried the gentle persuasion of a steel mallet... and no, those wheel bolts aren't holding it on. I've sprayed penetrating lube (into the lug holes) to leak down onto the face of the hub (i.e. the mating surface of the hub and rotor) but so far no budge. And yes, I know it's less than ideal to be pushing against the half-shaft/axle stub but it is what it is (and I need to loosen that anyway lol). Handbrake is off.

A good question might be, 'how many are there in NZ?' because I've not seen many at all. Good luck with your search!

Unfortunately perhaps, but my recent dive into E87 forums indicates these 6-pot Brembo/BMW calipers are the work of Satan and suck balls. Apparently that's why BMW "upgraded" to the later 4-pot fronts. Evidently the seals fail prematurely and then cook the pistons, some have taken the calipers off at 1000 kms and found perished seals! If I were you Chris I'd be looking for upgraded seals (not sure if they're available) or you'll be replacing pistons again soon enough. This sort of poor quality sh*t should be a legally mandated recall and permanent fix in my opinion, regardless of the cost to BMW. They're brakes for crying out loud, they're more important than airbags.

Wow, that looks so f'ing sexy.

Yeah, that's the intent. The expectation is that the seller registers for GST in NZ and then charges GST on the sale then pays the IRD that GST. The reality on the other hand is that very, very few offshore companies will register for GST in NZ (let alone write the IRD a cheque) so border control in NZ will still be the ambulance at the bottom of the cliff. The expectation therefore is that EVERY liable package will be checked for GST payment and if the supplier isn't registered then the package will be held and the receiver will be billed for GST. The loophole is a foreign company can register for GST in NZ, collect that GST, and never pay it to the IRD because their reach doesn't extend to foreign soil. The consumer then produces a GST receipt (with an IRD GST registered number on it) to prove they paid GST and then how does the government get the money without being accused of collecting it twice (whether the collection was effective or not)? NZ can't force any foreign company to comply, the most they can do is stop the package at the border. The hope is that eventually, for fear of having every package stopped at the border, that the foreign supplier will voluntarily register. The likely scenario is that the foreign seller will say f%*# off, continue to ship the goods and leave the receiver to pay the GST thereby significantly increasing the number of packages that need to be manually inspected at the border. The smarter companies will quickly learn to cease sending packages in branded boxes. All of this has played out before in different countries/markets and it's never worked (properly) so I'm not sure why our stupid ("no new taxes") government thinks we can make it work better than everybody else. And they say it's to make it fairer on local distributors. That's BS, all it will prove is that local suppliers (e.g. BMW NZ) will be shown up and their price gouging tactics exposed to the public because we'll still be able to land products from the US, Europe and Asia, even including GST and shipping, for less that we can buy locally. If the local price difference was ~15% it might work but with price differences of up to 400% for exactly the same product it simply can't work. Local companies complain "but it's an unfair playing field" and now, given a level playing field and still being priced out of the market, what are they going to complain about when all we're seeing now is their unreasonable margins?