M3AN

Those two oils are the same, just different packaging and labels. Second picture is the old package (same contents). If you look carefully at the labels you'll see that both a fully synthetic, FST, "Supercar", 10W-60SN. Get the least expensive one! Edit: actually the old packaging is NLA according to Repco's stock listings so you'll be getting the new packaging anyway unless you find some old stock.

E46 CSL hands down for me. I'm not sold on new cars that a) do most of the driving for you, b) you can't work on yourself, and c) apparently are too expensive to repair. No fun in that. There's also a niggle in the back of my mind that says in 10+ years all these electronic cars are going to start spazzing out and become entirely unreliable. But I'd also keep my entirely analogue E36 M3.

Your LHS indicator is upside down (wrong side), if the other one matches you can swap them over.

That cross threading sucks... and I wince every time I see a wheel put on with a pneumatic gun... ? Now, as for the lean, I've never seen an e36 without one so I feel chasing that is a fool's errand.

I see, so it's not really an LSD at all, it just emulates what and LSD does (and apparently outperforms one). On face value it seems like an inefficient use of torque but I suppose, if you have more torque than you can practically put through the rubber, there's no need to be particularly efficient. I assume though that that logic would not translate to lesser cars... if you have "100 torques" to send to the rear wheels and you send some of that to a slipping wheel, even if you prevent that wheel from actually slipping, you've robbed the other wheel of that potential twist. It'll all be electronic when we have motors driving each wheel independently and a central control module regulating the power each puts out based on a bunch of sensors... so we better get used to it! Sigh. Thanks for the info, it is interesting.

I'm certainly not anti E-LSD, especially if they can overcome some of the limitations of most mechanical LSD's (like when an inside wheel lifts and provides no mechanical resistance for the diff to use) but a "system" that uses the brakes for differential action seems inherently flawed (I suspect they're simply an extension of an existing traction control system therefore inexpensive to include in the build). I really don't know but I'd be surprised if the electronic diffs in those hypercars used the brakes for anything. A limited slip diff should stop over-rotation in the first place, not create it then temper it with an opposing force (brakes). Mitsubishi have used an electronic (torque vectoring) diff in in some of their cars since the mid to late 90's and they're amazing. Certainly no brakes involved in those.

Actually, the main problem with a brake based "LSD" (i.e. not an LSD at all) is that you're simply throwing away horsepower. Unwanted power to any given wheel is wasted and burnt away as heat or noise. And you overwork your brakes in the process. With a proper LSD negligible power is wasted by sending torque to a wheel with low traction. It may work in practice but it's so sub-optimal that it should be discarded for any "proper" car. It would be more accurately called "traction control" than "E-Diff" (or whatever it's called).

I've had all my powder coating done here: http://www.mikestan.co.nz although they outsource the surface prep (or you can sort it yourself). I've never had any problems and their prices are really competitive if you're prepared to fit in with a scheduled colour run.

A Schnitzer team legend. RIP Karl.

A Tesla S in "Ludicrous Mode" is crazy fast off the line... much, much faster than the R35 GT-R I thrashed for a while in the Netherlands (probably the fastest road car I've ever driven). I've never been in a fighter jet (although I have been in a official US Navy simulator) but I imagine the feeling is similar! It's a proper punch in the guts. It's starting to get crazy all these irreparable cars and often, even the cost of basic repairs that require replacement electronic modules. We thought airbags were bad in the late 90's and early 00's but things are getting a bit silly. If you can only get your car repaired at a licensed dealer and with astronomically expensive parts in the future I see insurance companies simply saying "no" and regulators saying "yes". It started to go downhill when you needed to get your battery coded to your car lol...

My comment was only intended for the benefit of Gabriel based on my experience, my point being simply that you don't need to replace everything.

They look very good with that colour car, sexy as hell. That's up there pricewise for the wheels, what condition were they when you took them in?

Always good to hear first hand experiences, my glass needs some attention too.

Do they accelerate like a Tesla? If so, then I'd put my money on this being the reason.

Now, make it actually useful... https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1615962-DIY-Original-BMW-Flashlight-installing-LED

Yes, #3 - basically any high tensile bolt should be replaced. And I disagree with the premise that all nuts, bolts, washers, spacers etc are single use, they're not. For example there's no need to replace top mount nuts unless they've failed for some reason (and that's improbable). Most of those parts are available locally anyway in the event that you find something that's damaged (which is again, highly unlikely). Spring retainers almost never need replacing. Each to their own but you'll pay a premium if adding unnecessary bits in bumps up your shipping costs or worse, bumps the whole lot up over NZ$400. If cost is no object then go for it (of course) but I thought cost was a consideration in this case, sorry if I misunderstood.

Bump stops should only be a few bucks a side, I can't see them adding much to the overall cost. Yes to the top mounts, you'll want to replace those. You should be able to reuse: 2, 4, 5, 6, 7, 9, 14, 15 and maybe 12 from the Real OEM link you posted, everything else needs replacing. Just clean the parts you're going to reuse and make sure they're not damaged or deformed. That FCP kit seems more expensive than I'd expect and it's not essential to replace everything that's included. Do get new bottom mount bolts for the struts though, don't reuse your existing ones.

lol indeed - 15s 1/4's instead of 13's please sir. ??????

Family Q + Longines + Tissot + Casio (dive watch) Salmon tonight. ?

Now that is an interesting suggestion, they're a really fun car around town and on the open road, had one for a Paris to Brussels trip. I had no idea you could get on for less than $5k. My concern would be the maintenance and upkeep, I'm not sure what the costs would be but I imagine they're not insignificant.

I can't imagine you'd want an external ceramic coating on a PPF/wrap, that would seem like a waste of money to me. As for the interior, that shouldn't need any protection unless you're planning to abuse it. I agree with Kyu, if you're really, really concerned get the front end wrapped clear and forget about the rest. Although I'd never bother to do that on any car I owned unless it was collectable.

G

Wow, up to $4.5k? In that case I agree with Andrew, put the money in a passive growth fund and use the proceeds over time to repaint as required. Have you spoken to the guys at OCD about options?

They are very good cars, I didn't think you could get one in the price range. Never seen a manual myself let alone driven one!

If she's a "very competent" driver and the primary consideration is "fun under 5k" then hands-down it's the MX-5, you're unlikely to have as much fun unless you have an Evo. They really are that good, and at such low speeds.