M3AN

That's an awesome project for somebody, so much potential at $3k, if I needed 4 doors I'd be very tempted. GLWS. That steering wheel looks sweet, where did you get it done?

The correct water is $6 for 10 litres from the supermarket, no real reason not to use it IMO.

Rode passed an e36 touring with an M3 badge on the rear today... was on private property behind a gate so I couldn't take a closer look. Plate is FGP457 but it's actually registered as MEVO which implies the M3 badge on the back is legit (although wearing old plates is dodgy). Anyone know it? Anyone here converted it?

It was a slow leak but yep, once it got low if made funky sounds. Got the rack back in... wouldn't say it slid right in but a little bit of 'encouragement' sorted it... about 1.6 turns from centre to lock on each side so I think it's close enough to correct. Tie rods and temp alignment with a measuring tape and string tomorrow before a trip to a proper shop next week... assuming no leaks! Thanks to @B.M.W Ltd, @C-130 Hercules and @aja540i for chiming in so quickly with your helpful advice!

You know where we can get demineralised water from the tap??? Do tell...

Thanks guys... clock spring should be okay as the steering wheel is locked on centre... Rack going in is out of my M3, can't tell if it was centered when removed and it didn't have the dust cap - I'm guessing centre based on looks, will have to adjust once installed - I can remove and re-centre the steering wheel if required. Dust cap from old rack has been transferred across but is no longer a suitable reference. I'm pretty sure if I can get it in I can get it straight... just getting it in. Will be trying again this afternoon. Why all this? Old rack was leaking, the one going in is identical.

Thanks for the heads-up, but not sure what you mean... do you mean that if I don't have the rack, column and steering wheel lined up properly I'll tear the clock spring? If not, could you elaborate. Jack stands and wheels off. Steering wheel is locked on centre (although it was moved with rack off) and coupling is aligned as it was before I removed the old rack. I can't be sure the rack is perfectly centred but it looks 'about even' left to right. Now, are the shaft and coupling keyed? i.e. do I need to rotate everything until I find a/the mating point? Responses are much appreciated, thanks.

And tips on inserting the splined shaft on a steering rack into the coupler? '96 328 - old rack came out with a bit, but not too much, effort, can't get the new one in even a few mm (needs to go in about 12mm). Coupling bolt is entirely removed so no obstruction from that. I've spread the coupling a bit by hammering a wedge into the gap, added grease to the shaft and coupling, made sure they're lined up true etc, etc. No joy. Both the coupling and rack are ~20 years old so for sure the splines aren't perfect but that's what I've got to work with. Any tips or something obvious I'm missing? Do I just have to jam the coupling open more? PITA on your back when it's 26 degrees out...

Yep, understood and understandable, that would probably disappoint me too...

Yummy.

Well, I certainly wouldn't have given Beaurepaires my money! ?

Wow, that's sexy as hell but I agree with your assessment Jon, it's sort-of an 'inbetweener'.

lol wtf - I wonder what it's running for engine management?

Word. And yes, seeing the love is satisfying, these things deserve to be treated well. Props.

If it's for you 1989 530i then just get something suitable from Repco or Supercheap for half the price (or less).

5 years is a pretty good result. I think the determining factor is how long they'll guarantee the finish for. If they'll guarantee it for 5 years then it's probably worth it.

A radiator should last more than 2.5 years so the warranty period doesn't matter, you're covered by the CGA. If they don't respond file a small claims dispute for the value of the radiator, you should get a court order for a refund.

You could almost call it a bargain at US$70k considering what they were new and how much better this is than new! But you're right, that's baller money.

It is nice now but unfortunately it'll look like sh*t in a couple of years. It's painted (on the surface) and not dyed and the paint will crack off as the leather gets used. You can't dye leather without removing and submerging it all and that's just not practical. Fibrenew are also in NZ and they'll only guarantee their work on seats for 2 years (if you're lucky - they wouldn't give me any guarantee). To be honest there aren't many options and this is one of the best but it pays to know what you're getting because it's a short term product. They shouldn't call it "dyeing". Lovely car though!

Pulled the steering rack out the 328... boy that's a messy job!

And remember they're crush washers, you need 4 for rack side and 4 for the pump side, one for either side of the hose fitting. And BMW NZ charges over $3 each... ridiculous. Edit: may only need 2 crush washers for the pump side, depends how the feed line attaches.

Getting to 100km/h in second gear...

And to think I was going to sell it for 14-15k in '08 when I headed off to Europe...

Oh, sorry my bad. And I always use 9v to test 12v circuits since 'straight-from-battery' power is unregulated. Although most vehicle circuitry should support non-continuous 14v it's better to err on the safe side.

If the fan came on when you jumped the temp switch/sensor how was the module dead?