M3AN

If the pump needs to be replaced it wouldn't be only $100... Maybe $50 for a second hand pump (where from though?), more for a new one, at least an hour labour, or more, $80+, replacement fluid, $30... Tell him you'll add $100 to the price if he gets the PS fixed...

Connection in the light housing?

Test fitted this...

What is that?

The benchmark for all that followed.

I tend to agree at this early stage, especially since I don't have a huge rear spoiler to match. But I would like to get it attached properly and perhaps drive it around a bit, see it in different settings etc. before I made a final decision. I'd also like to copy it for all sorts of reasons, I don't have the skills but will hopefully follow up with Willian (@3pedals) to establish if it's actually feasible and what it might mean costwise. I can't see a carbon fibre replica costing only a few hundred, I'd expect it to be much, much more expensive (could be wrong, I'm ignorant on both material costs and the time involved). I also like the look with only those velocity splitters... broke them both off within a month... imagine me driving around with this huge thing! Having said that my M3 was a daily back then, hardly sees the road now. Form, function or both? Either way keep your eyes on this thread as updates on ownership and the possibility of copies will be posted here first. ?

See here: http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/60311-potential-new-owner-of-a-318ti-e36-first-car/

So, welcome Richard, let's see if I can provide some info... A 318ti is quite a simple car to maintain, especially if you have friends/contacts close by. The Ti is a bit different from the other E36's (Coupe, Wagon, Sedan) so not all parts can be interchanged but many can. They're pretty simple cars so very little specialist BMW knowledge would be required. If you're happy to approach the guys around the block then it might pay to have a chat with them before you purchase to get any specific tips etc. The "rough idle" is probably a vacuum leak which is a common occurance on these cars, your family friend that owns an auto shop should be able to do a smoke test on the car to identify any leaks. Could be as simple as replacing an inexpensive hose. Not sure about the power steering, depends what wrong with it. If it need a new rack that'll be most expensive (but I have one available for $150 if you need one). Get your auto shop guy to do a pre-purchase inspection and advise you on that also. They don't use a lot of fuel but it's still a 20 year old car and might be a little inefficient. The rough idle won't help but a $100 tank of fuel will last you ~500km's I'd think. Definitely start with a cheap car first! The insurance will be cheaper, you won't care if somebody (or you) dings it, curbed wheels aren't such an issue etc, etc. Learn to drive well before getting a good car. A 206xxx km, 1998 E36 318Ti would be an ideal first car I'd say... especially if you can get it for $1200 and your mechanic family friend checks it out first and says it's okay. Good luck and keep us posted!

Okay, here's the post from your other thread as well so we can answer it all here... perhaps edit/delete the other thread?

VANOS seals - that's a one off if replaced with uprated versions Bottom end bearings - big job but again, a one off if done properly. Other that I think it's just feed it good oil (10w60) regularly and drive it like you stole it. Eventually the cooling system will explode but that's no different from any other BMW of the era, best to do it before the explosion of course. What type of car if it's not an M3?

Further updates on the splitter in my PLOG...

Right I tested fitted the splitter today. The fit is not perfect but in some regards I expected that. Additional measures will need to be taken to ensure it's secure. The original (not previous) owner says that it needs to be installed over the existing black motosport lip and I think this is the only practical way to do it and secure it properly. As you'll see the splitter emulates this lip and really needs something to hang from across its length. I don't believe simply securing it from the bottom will be sufficient, especially at high speed. Achieving a tight "OEM" fit will require the use of race tape or external (visible) bolts/screws to secure the splitter to the factory lip. Unfortunately if you use race tape removal would be almost impossible without damaging the fibreglass structure (the tape would just pull the fibres apart). Having said that it's quite grouse and it does look very aggressive, I'm not sold on it yet for every day use but we'll see how that plays out. The pics (test fit only)... The gaps...

Hmm...

I'm not sure I know what "splashing" is and the only helpful reference i found was here: http://sweetcomposites.com/Mold.html Are you using "splash" the same way they are? But either way, are you saying it would be easy once it's fixed to the bumper? Do you not need access to the inside cavity? And can you do it whilst it's affixed to the car? Or are you just taking the piss? To be honest I can't tell...

Yes, for obscure parts I'm not sure you can be 100% sure unless you have a few of them to compare. It is literally identical to the one in the link above and for two identical "fake" ones to end up at different ends of the planet would require a bit of luck. Coincidentally Aldrin picked this up from the same guy I recently purchased some uber-rare door cards from and he's certainly legit (but of course he could have been sold a story also). It seems well designed with smooth lines and even curves etc, etc. Can't comment on actual build quality as I'm not a fibreglass expert but it doesn't appear bad. It will be interesting to see how much abuse it handles... it's very light and whilst stiff, certainly isn't particularly thick. In the end I paid for the part not the brand and would have walked away had I not thought it was worth it. I'll claim it's a Hamann until I learn otherwise... I might send them an email and ask, see what info that returns. So @3pedals, what do we need to do to make a CF one happen. I'm only going to be test fitting this in the short term rather than fixing it straight on... Edit: just seen that second link... hmmm, yummy.

BMW hoses are all metric to start with but I agree, that's unlikely to be your problem... the only issue would be if your new one was so narrow it created back pressure and that's highly unlikely. Air bubbles and aeration are different things. If you have/had heaps of small bubbles in your PS fluid in the reservoir that's aerated fluid, if there were a few bigger bubbles that floated to the surface then they're just a natural result of the bleeding process. Aeration can only occur in the reservoir. Based on your original symptoms also, fluid can only come out of the vent hole if the reservoir level is up there or there's massive agitation of the fluid (i.e. fluid being flicked around). It's pretty unlikely the fluid was that high so agitation is the primary suspect. Agitation also happens to cause aeration. The only thing that can can cause fluid agitation in the reservoir is the return line being over pressured. It's a closed system, the only other orifices are the vent hole (pressurised in your case) and the pump which is gravity fed and should have no back pressure at all. Also, heavy steering is symptomatic of air in the system and if you're pumping aerated fluid through then that's to be expected. Edit: that OEM hose is quite amazing, I had no idea the ID was so tiny.

Have you dismissed the (absence of a) restrictor as a possibility? If you're flowing more fluid with the new hose and E46 rack (which has different internals to the E36 rack) you'll get the symptoms you're having. If the new rack flows freer than the E36 one (I don't know) and you're pushing more fluid through then the return line will be forcing more into the reservoir which is exactly what causes your symptoms. If you're prepared to swap the E36 rack back in then what I'd do beforehand is drain the reservoir, disconnect the return line, shove a temporary restrictor in there then do it back up again and test it. Should be a lot less work than swapping rack and swapping racks might not pinpoint the problem (symptoms could go away if the E36 rack is more restrictive only to return again when you swap the E46 rack back in). Also swapping racks and eliminating the symptoms does not confirm the E46 rack is the problem.

Andrew we all know you can only do a round trip to your letterbox on a full tank! I often wonder how many fuel stops you have to make to get to the coffee meet.

Yep, could even do tomorrow, will send you a PM.

Viewing possible? I might be interested in the splitter...

I agree, sometimes I've been surprised but most of the time they're just having a laugh and trying to recover their storage and liquidity costs. An e36 M3 radiator, $1000 + GST, landed from FCP NZ$380. But on the other hand I was stupid and accidently ordered a LHD windscreen cowl from the US for NZ$90 - uneconomical to exchange. Cost of the correct one from BMW NZ - only $110, never checked beforehand doh. ? They could do with a local online catalogue, calling them all the time, whist tolerable isn't ideal.

Those last two BMWs look horrific, I'd be embarrassed to own one. One looks like a giant has sat on the grill and squashed it down and the other just looks like a sad upside down face. I hope those are (poor) artists impressions rather than real press shots.

I agree, they've sort-of got the Mini driving dynamics right, they all drive pretty well and respond reassuringly to a bit of right foot. Some of the JCW variants were really good fun.

Dafuq... the exact same two words that popped into my head. I agree with so much in this thread, this is just another of the small cuts BMW enthusiasts have to endure... but we're not BMW's base by a long shot. Hood and headlights remind me of a Mitsi Evo.

It's not the slots, it's the internal vents that matter (although the slots should correspond)... can't see the vents from your pics but I'd assume pass side was the RHS - match them to your existing rotors.