M3AN

Nup. Non-original bits and pieces car. If I wanted an M5 for that money I'd get an E39 for sure, so much better.

And there's another set there, in the car right next door which are a little worse for wear and probably a bit damp but for around $80, still a steal!

Hmm, so if I take this from pick-a-part today (I only went for an alternator belt tensioner but these were near mint) and add it to... \ ...this from an abandoned project for the M3: I might be on to something... ?

Okay, I worked out how to fix that ^ mechanical tensioner. 1. Drive 12 mins to Zebra Pick-A-Part 2. Spend 3 mins finding the only 6 cylinder BMW that's there 4. Take 5 mins to test and remove hydraulic tensioner 5. Pay $15 6. Drive 12 mins home 7. Spend 10 mins installing new tensioner and belts 8. Victory dance The problem with Pick-A-Part is coming home with more than you intended... practically mint.

I don't think I can tighten it that much, no... looks like this...

Thanks guys. Yes, when it's off the car... I doubt it when it's on the car without removing the alternator and then I wouldn't be able to install the belt. What did you have in mind? Yes, that's what I was hoping (and expecting) to find but my housing doesn't have that hex... mine looks identical to the diagram. so slightly different to yours...

What's the recommended way to loosen belts with these types of mechanical tensioner? Mine doesn't have a hex molded into the housing (not shown in this picture) so the only thing to "grab" is bolt #5 in the diagram... except that just spins. I can remove the whole unit and get the pulley (#3) off by undoing #5 and #7 but ultimately that's no help. I realise I'd be better off upgrading to a hydraulic unit but I see no need to go to that expense since this one is holding tension just fine. I just can't loosen it to get a belt on. TIA.

Very, very few. And that's ultimately my point, the Trademe price is irrelevant unless somebody is prepared to pay it. My mate put his up for $100k and got $70k offers. He tired of that game very quickly.

Okay, well I'll pitch in again even if it doesn't help. I'm not sure you have INPA working at all TBH. If you can get ADS working over USB then you're the first person in the world to do so. Also codes like "4A63" aren't the descriptive codes you'd get from BMW software AFAIK. If you have a language problem with INPA this will be because of a mismatched file in the default directory (typically EC-APPS/INPA). Almost all of the language files end in .eng (English) and .ger (German) so browse through those to see if there's anything obvious. You might need to use a Windows GREP programme to search for the German terms you're seeing. If it's EWS I know nothing I'm afraid... if it's not then I suspect you're going to need to use DIS rather than INPA. INPA is a stepping stone towards DIS which is the proper diagnostics programme.

Stop reading the internet then Tom or you'll have an aneurysm. Life is nothing without wild speculation. ? If it sells it's worth what it sells for. Advertisements like this, for cars like these, are more about signalling there's one for sale rather than trying to achieve a sale at the listed price. Put it up for 100k and get tyre kickers offering 75k... put it up for 130k and if somebody wants to pay that much they will and if they offer 100k instead then you're got the start of a discussion. Surely nobody buys a car like this on Trademe anyway.

Yes, this is where I recently took my 328 and I was super impressed with the service and results. I'll only be going there from now.

The weather has been miserable and I'm working outside so progress has been slow but I got the replacement sump on and all torqued up on Saturday. Looking forward to a fine afternoon tomorrow when I'm hoping to put it all back together. Found a pro-tip for keeping the gasket in place when putting the sump back in... cable ties! Clip them off after you've put a couple of bolts in to locate it all. Worked a treat. Edit: remember to only put cable ties in places that will be easy to reach after you've mounted the sump! Two at the front on opposite sides as in pic and one at the back on the RHS is enough.

Very interested to see how you get along with that manifold kit... do you just add an M50 manifold to the mix? What about tuning or is the extra air within the parameters of the stock DME?

Truth in this but I think the chances of money back are slim as the shop has the choice to make it right instead of giving your money back... But next time, yes avoid!

I agree with all of the above. The off-centre steering wheel means they've left the steering wheel in the wrong position before starting the alignment. Unless you get a very thorough alignment (costs more) most shops won't get the camber identical from side to side, even if the car is brand new. You have less than a 1/3 of a degree difference so no need to worry about that. I'd also want those rear toe numbers closer. If you drive it like you stole it then perhaps +1.5 each side but if not then maybe +0.5 each side. You need to take it back...

I wonder what happened to the McLaren in the background and whether that's up for auction as a wreck also?

Nup. Silver for sure. I have black grills om my black 328 and like them because they blend in. I think silver adds an element of class which is why I keep them on the M3. IMHO black grills only work on black, white or perhaps silver cars... unless it's a CSL, then Ag4EVA lol. And it's an E39 M5, BMW got it just right straight off the factory floor.

If the car is mobile you're more than welcome to come to my place and try my toolkit. I also have an electric impact. Ellerslie.

Does anybody have a M14x1.5 die I can use? I need to chase a thread and my biggest is 12x1.5. Seems a shame to have to purchase a tool for such a job. If you're out of Auckland I'd be happy to cover costs. Cheers.

One of the comments mentions black badges on the back but I can't see any at all. The CF bits are genuine and I agree, needs the proper grill and CSL badge on the back. But let's be honest, if you're going to spend six figures it would be very easy to make a condition of purchase having these items restored to factory condition - it's unlikely the seller would turn down a good offer on those conditions and it's equally unlikely that somebody looking for a CSL is going to walk away from a deal just because of that. If I was picky I'd say the steering wheel is a little ratty for the miles but that's just cosmetic.

Any work on a board like that requires some specialist skills. You're going to need to remove the ECU which will disable the car so it might pay to cast your net wider than Auckland. I know Get Electronics in Christchurch do work like this but I'm not sure if they're available. If you know what parts you need and can source those then a mobile phone repair shop might be able to help if they simply need to desolder old and solder new components.

Point a million lumens at your rear plate and no amount of fixed speed camera flash is going to penetrate that! I suspect, should I be following your car, I might consider it a little bright.

Yep, have both, will send you a PM.

MIght have the front Recaros with matching inserts, e36 mounts and sliders to suit at some point in the near future. It's an abandoned project so will still require some work and the Recaros are in pieces at the mo. You can just see the passenger seat in that photo. Price would climb accordingly of course... although my priority is to declutter rather than profit.

Ahh, the Tor of Torbay - I grew up climbing that thing. Nice looking car and welcome!