M3AN

I don't think it should overlap but it's made of a pretty unsuitable material and easily deforms. Just make sure it's seated properly and it also has a little nub on it as an alignment guide... I don't think it really matters but check that this is also located properly.

Replied in the other thread, between the needle bearings and the circlip on the rear of the unit, it's of a size that it can't go elsewhere. I replaced mine with a metal one from the S54 but that's not necessary if yours is in good shape.

Ugh, that brings back memories... all that orange gunk is such a PITA. The stop disk goes on top of the needle bearings, between them and the big circlip.

When you'd actually welcome a fire...

I was going to say its not worth $1300 but $900 is somewhat more palatable... I'm glad I got mine when the exchange rate was sensible. You can use cable ties for the rear cables, and you only need one extra hex nut, you can reuse the one that's on the stock setup, that's another $4 saving!

@pranilb 100% get the TRW ones, they're not "equivalent" they're the same thing, mine just came with the BMW logos filed off, for 30% of the cost. Edit: Ninja'd by Chris, and I agree with his sentiments about the rear, they don't do anything for the geometry but the do deflect (bend) differently and have better bushings, I'm not sure if they're any lighter actually as they have a lot more material than the non-M ones.

Does that also activate the set speed display on the dash?

You won't be able to use the factory amp but otherwise it should be pretty simple, assuming the speakers and sub can handle it, you'd need to verify that independently (I don't know their specs). You need an amp with aux in and crossover control such as this one (first search result, not a recommendation) ** Wire your speakers to the amp Wire your amp to power Plug your aux source into amp aux in Hit play and tune crossovers Profit ** amp will obviously need enough channels and power to satisfy your requirements. Edit: I think you can get Bluetooth amps now also and the BT connection will be aux rather than line level so should also work if your source has BT, albeit with compressed audio.

3% free now. 😂

https://www.autolign.co.nz/profile/website/view/accountId/14978

Very, very well done, you should be proud of that effort, props.

Nice score, good work. Unless it has stop/start (yuck) then you don't need an AGM battery so that will save you hundreds if you need to replace it. But since it has an (expensive) AGM already I'd want to verify it was installed correctly which requires registration. It could be reporting excessive discharge for one of 2 (main) reasons: 1) it is actually excessively discharging, indicating an electrical fault; or, 2) it was never registered properly so the measurement over a false baseline is triggering the code. Do you have a multimeter? Or software to check the battery registration?

It's probably one of the easier home mechanic jobs you can do and you don't need a whole lot of tools, remove wheel, remove caliper (hang it out of the way, don't undo the fluid line), remove rotor, replace rotor, replace pads, reassemble, break in pads and rotors. Using genuine BMW parts will probably be prohibitively expensive, that may be what you've been quoted. Once you have the rotor specs you need you could import them yourself from a place like spareto.com, the shipping will be high but the total landed cost probably better than you can get in NZ. Unless you have good advice to the contrary then the stock BMW pads (probably Textar brand) will likely give you the feel and stopping power you need. How many k's has the car done, any track time? Have you confirmed with your own hands or measurements that all of the rotors need replacing?

Sounds like you're approaching it sensibly, with your mentality I'm sure you can find the right car. I was just about to post about suspension but Jared ninja'd me... I'd start with shocks and bumpstops, springs only later if required (this is certainly economical if it's DIY, otherwise perhaps not?). Yes, bad bumpstops are a crazy issue with this chassis, a black mark on BMW. Replace stock ones with the BMWP shorter ones, there are many brands, you shouldn't pay for BMW branded ones. Edit: Heavy steering? No, not a common problem, possibly related to the PS leak?

All good and that sounds like a great plan. Other end of (stock) seatbelt will certainly not be an issue, if it's OE it's already approved. All said and done, since you're putting in a half cage and proper seats, why not install a 3 or 4 point harness? That will probably cost you less than adapting the lap/sash and provide a more secure human/seat interface...

@chuckitinbro - that's a reasonable one, I might offer $7500 and see what they come back with, if it's sound and you could pick it up for between $7800 and $8000 I'd say that was good. Ultimately how much oil it was leaking is about the best assessment you could make without looking at the internals which isn't practical. The PS res leak is a relatively easy fix and a good reason to replace the fluid also and be done with it for another ~60,000kms. The rear seat space in these is utter pants, pretty useless, you can not put an adult back there for any length of time. A 4yo going on 10 will probably work but this is something you certainly want to assure yourself of before you commit. It's not a wagon proper but I like the trunk space and the split folding rear seat helps with longer/heavier loads. Cruise is a nice option for longer trips, although I retrofitted mine and hardly use it... Facelift (LCI) is good, better interior materials but also not essential. The rear end looks low on the 17's in the auction pics and at 100+ kms the shocks might need replacing, I'd verify that and use it as a negotiating point. Replacing shocks isn't that expensive if you're a home mechanic but probably $800 to $1000 for the rears if you need to pay a shop. They're a fun car to put around town and on the open road, even in slushbox form.

I wonder what people aren't seeing? 😂

This is true, especially in NZ. If you can get a good deal on a raw bullion transaction then go for that and simply put it in a secure box. Otherwise an Australian gold-based ETF is probably the best bet, fees tend to be relatively low as long as transaction volumes are also low, which should be true for gold. You can also find gold backed ETF's that allow you to cash out in bullion which is an attractive option (edit: of course you'll face both entry and exit fees but done smartly these won't be a relatively significant cost).

Given your current garage, and the daily commute that wouldn't even allow a fossil burner to warm up, I'd get a small electric car and invest the change in gold (for 2023 at least).

Yup. 🕺

I'll take it, collected from Meadowbank (Auckland I assume?), for $400 as long as it's structurally sound and not too aesthetically damaged. Don't really need it but it looks purdy.

No rear seat makes a huge difference to the ease with which you can do this. Different chassis but same considerations, I researched this for my e36 M3 coupe, and @sweetm3 did get an e36 coupe certed with aftermarket fronts and sliders, and a rear seat. No rear seat (rear seat and seatbelts must be removed and I believe the vehicle needs to be re-registered as a 2 seater) means no access/egress requirements so that's good, I know NZKW and VAC Motorsport mounts can be certed in NZ, I'm sure other brand name mounts, like Recaro would also be fine. I can't recall what brand @sweetm3 used but they're obviously also fine. Or at least was all true a few years back, always talk to your cert guy before spending the money. Then the seatbelt receptical fixing point needs to be OE or a new, reinforced mounting point, you can't use a non-OE mounting point on an aftermarket seat base (or slider) to the best of my knowledge. This is normally on the transmission tunnel and there are documented NZTA/LVVC standards for this with all of the necessary measurements. Did you find this: https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Seatbelts_& Seatbelt_Anchorages.pdf

Will not fit a RHD, the steering column will interfere. @Jacko has experience with RHD manifolds from AliExpress, best for him to comment.

Might be interested in the rears if you're presented with an opportunity to split them.

Indeed, looks like the bumper needs to be adjusted up, which would hopefully fix the resting height of the bonnet. And FFS why don't people know how to hold a phone properly to take photos.