Allanw

maybe a broken wire? the switch signal goes back to the body control module, and that operates the windows. The switch signal may not get to the module. Plug it in and look at live data - I think you can see the switches in INPA. (If you own an E39 - get software - it's cheap, saves money, and it's fun (If you're a geek anyway))

We had piles of them (BH, BJ) in the rental fleet, and they were actually pretty good (Beat the pants off a corolla). I never actually had an auto fail in one - one had a slight shudder that I remember, but a fluid change fixed it (most of these cars were in the fleet until they were well into the 200K's+). It may not actually be a speed sensor fault though - if the trans slips, the speed sensors detect the input and output speeds - if they aren't close enough, it will go to limp mode and log the code, holding 3rd until you switch it off (yes?). But usually I wouldn't expect it to happen in first, and jump stright to 3rd - you usually here them flare or something, then thud into 3rd. I guess that means maybe it's MORE likely to just be a sensor??? I'm NOT familia (see what I did there?) with the inner workings of the little mazdas, but some cars use the output speed sensor as the vehicle speed sensor, to run the speedo etc - if these do, and your speedo works, it's probably not that one

Sweet... might have to look again!

Could it be this???

Ouch $$$ I was going to get one for Dad as his factory illuminated one is totally worn out, but last I looked they were VERY expensive... should really look again.

I REALLLLLLLLLLLY want that for my Mrs too....

You can fit E60 wheel bearings(with the hubs included) to the front, and E60 drive flanges to the rear ( or get the E39 ones machined - though I suspect that should technically be certed). The threaded hole that is used to bolt on the discs will need to be drilled and tapped in the correct spot too. While all that is more expensive than spacers, it doesn't required a cert (all spacers and adapters do), and it means you can use a whole bunch more wheels without adapters or reboring the centres.

Bahahaha! I can imagine that happening! I keep thinking it would be a good car for the Mrs' Kindy run... She might not think so though I'm surprised it hasn't sold, really.

Topgaiters on ebay is brilliant - specify RHD if they're different in E36's. He send me a LHD E39 boot, but sent the correct one very quickly at no charge when I pointed out the mistake (It was a RHD listing). ZHP's knobs on Amazon are OK priced (about NZ$115 shipped).

Is it slipping a lot, or is it just certain times? The car may still have the Clutch Delay Valve (CDV) installed, which makes the clutch slip somewhat on launch, because it effectively rides the clutch for you. (Even when BMW lets you have a manual tranmission, they don't want you to be able to control it properly - I removed mine not long after getting the car - it's WAAAAAAY better.). The dual mass flywheels (DMF) get replaced because the damping springs, gears etc wear out and cause play/noise/vibration. They can be done though. They aren't always required, but aren't likely to be in good condition through the life of two complete clutch plates. I have a document from Sachs that says the DMF MUST NOT be resurfaced, and should ALWAYS be replaced at the second clutch replacement. If the flywheel surface is in good condition, a light scuff is enough to help seat the new friction plate. If the old clutch was slipping excessively though, this would be unlikely. Even if the surface looks OK, the dual mass components may not be, but that wouldn't make it slip. You can't know what he's been doing to it.

Local guy said they should either both work, or both not and you're fine

Does the noise change with revs, as it deffo engine related? I wonder if the noise could be the secondary air pump, which is actually more towrads the front, but the noise may transfer that way (but the noise wouldn't change with revs - It's electric)? Trans issue is a really easy fix. Manual conversion

Haha... lunch time for me - forums and trade me (Via BidBud). Total watchlist value: $255,783.50... because I cut back

Worth a crack! It's the easiest! It could be running from somewhere else, rather than the sump. When did you last check the oil? You have to lose quite a bit for the warning to come on, and it would normally make a HUGE mess (unless you last checks the oil a long time ago). Sump leaks have happened, but aren't really common on M54s. Are you sure the "leak" isn't residual oil from the filter housing gasket replacement??? There are some casting hollows that can hold oil, and it creeps along the sump gasket joint. Also, the filter housing o-ring for the lid is a common leak. It could also leak down the front/side of the motor from the vanos feed hose sealing washers.

Nice - remember the E39's have a different wheel centre bore to other BMW's too

The Kms will NOT drop - after driving a short while until the next update milage, a lower milage cluster will INCREASE to the cars modules stored milage, so the cars ACTUAL milage is displayed. I'll leave it at that. Not sure explaining a 3rd time will help.

THAT is a cool "display" table!

Dad.

HAHAHA! I bet it didn't! They'd probably tried it before, secretly .

Anyone with the tools to clock an E39, will make sure there is no tamper light on - you only have to re-write the correct VIN to turn off the light. If the cluster milage is higher than the car, the whole car will be updated to the higher milage. If the cluster milage is lower, the cluster will update to match the rest of the modules. If someone has the tools to reset the cluster, they have the tools to rewrite the VIN. It's not really very hard to clock an E39, but you have to have the right tools, and it takes a little time and disassembly. You wouldn't leave the tamper light on after all the other technical challenges that you've overcome. Most likely explanation is a replacement used cluster because of dead pixels, probably done in NZ by an iffy dealer and didn't have the cluster coded or the VIN set. BMW dealers can't change a used cluster VIN with the official software, and aren't supposed to use aftermarket software that can do it. They make you buy a new cluster.

A manual 320i isn't so bad, but the autos are a waste of time. Hungrier than the 318i AND the 325i, and slower than both in a lot of normal driving.

Actually... that light shows up if the VINs don't match the rest of the car. The milage gets updated regardless of the VINs matching or not.

Maybe... Also... for V8 noise, but very subtle and only when "required" the muffler with no exit can have a hole cut with a hole saw - aja540i did that on his 540i touring and it sounds REALLY good when he pulls away from my driveway. It's never loud or obtrusive/droney, but sounds purposeful. You can either just leave the hole there, or siamese the two outlets together, or make two outlets. I'd recommend the holesaw as a "free" trial at least.

I've owned two Daihatsu Max's... It was getting tempting to repower with a 1000cc motorcycle engine... That's quite an increase from the original 360cc 33PS 2 cylinder 2 stroke There's a wagon version on trade me right now... getting tempted again... It'd weight about 550kg... with me in it... ( 420 without )

Yeah... so what he's saying, is those buttons are for the stuff that doesn't work anymore The cupholders are retarded - buy a "cheap" taiwanese replacement, and they'll last longer than the OEM ones. Then (after you clean all the dust from the AC temp sensor, as seen in your last 2 pics) you can put cold drinks in it, and have the heater go warm, or put hot drinks in to make it go cold, because some silly German person put the sensor right by where your drink goes. Oh yeah, then the drink tips over, because the cup holders ar so short anyway. Yeah - the V8's aren'tn't that hungry really. 9.2 is OK, but you probably weren't trying for your best economy on a run home in a newly purchased V8