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Everything posted by jeffbebe
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100 today?! You look older.
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There are good ones and bad ones but they all chew through petrol like it's 1995. Lots of fun though!
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I'd be stoked to get 400kms out of 50L... That said, if I did probably wasn't having enough fun! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Pretty certain you can do that... Josh (hybrid) mentioned he'd done or seen something similar.
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Watched this on Apple TV last night... It was excellent. Well worth a couple of hours of your time. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZHlK2HCh12U
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Really need to find a centre cap tool for my RSIIs to stop idiots at wheel shops, etc from destroying them by removing with metal wrenches (yes, I'm currently angry). Diameter is approx 90mm. I've not had much sourcing online. Any suggestions?
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^ What he said. Stay on topic. I you have an axe to grind do it somewhere else.
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Done it. No faults and SAP completely removed. Car's running great and it seems to have fixed some rough idling. Car still seems to run some sort of noisy (not as noisy as it was) operation for a minute or so at start up even though the pump's disconnected. Can anyone (Glenn!) tell me why that is?
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Sounds like all that's involved is a bit of hard work and patience - hopefully Seth @ Car Folie will be willing to work with some owners whose cars he's done to resolve and do the job right. I'm very happy with the tints I've had done at Car Folie but neither car has had the dot matrix so it's not been an issue. I reckon go back to him, show him some research and see what he's willing to do. Would be good for his business - especially on modern high end cars - to find a good solution or he'll just generate more dissatisfied customers.
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This guy took it upon himself to sort it out - http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=513195 - he reckons everybody is just settling for shite tint jobs instead of pushing the tint companies to prep it properly.
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Got any pics to show what it looks like?
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Thanks Glenn, I was hoping you'd chime in!! Exactly what I wanted to hear. Cheers
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BTW - I unplugged it previously and didn't get a CEL light. Have subsequently scanned fault codes and there was no historical fault for the SAP. If it had thrown a fault that would have shown up even though I plugged the SAP back in, wouldn't it? Hoping my ECU isn't checking for it... EDIT: I'm deleting it today so we'll see what happens. I won't remove it completely until I'm sure there are no faults showing and everything's running as it should.
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Very cool.
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Where do you buy your (new) bmw replacement parts?
jeffbebe replied to Kepes's topic in General Discussion
+1 for Gavin at EuroItalian I also use Schmiedmann pretty regularly - they're combined shipping is very competitive For non-critical parts like suspension, etc (when OE is not essential) eBay can be good - e.g. exhaust system parts. -
They're very nice looks similar to the E92 M3... I still think the recent E92 coupes look better (Suresh's springs to mind - gorgeous car!). Something really fluid and streamlined about the design which the 4 series and E92 M3 seems to lack (perhaps because of the hood power dome and body kit on the M3).
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Looked fine beforehand to me Is this the plan for yours, Tristan?
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Very nice! Right at the top of the list of the cars from the dyno day!
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Ah... That's annoying. So what about the threads saying Euro spec software doesn't include SAP in the engine check? Is that just hiding the fault? EDIT: I am right in thinking that the SAP does nothing other than heat up the cats on cold starts for emissions reasons, right?
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The one-way valve to the exhaust from the secondary air pump is blocked/knackered and will make the SAP die a slow death so I ordered a replacement from Gavin at Euroitalia. Unfortunately, when he finally got it ex-Germany the cost was 3 times the list price he'd originally quoted. Not his fault at all but it's a lot more than I expected. Since I'm planning to remove the second set of cats because they're ruined anyway, I wondered whether I might be better just deleting the SAP altogether. It's easy enough to unplug but wondering if there's anything else I need to do? Should I put a pvc cap over the hose from the broken valve? Will the ECU need recoding if it's unplugged? Or should I just spend the extra and fix it even though it'll only be warming the small pre-cats?
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Someone should buy this. They look good.
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Could be a water leak. Mine used to do this because the seals on the side indicators had perished. Would do it in the mornings after rain or condensation/dew.
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Is the mileage still the same? 4-5 years without getting driven much/at all can't be good.