BreakMyWindow

Any one installed these in to their FL e39 headlamps ? http://www.theretrofitsource.com/components/projectors/morimoto-evox-r-bi-xenon-projectors-48636.html#.UxUi0YctFLA

imo both will leave you wishing that you got the M version. Unless you've got cash to improve on them.

ACHTUNG! ACHTUNG! FEHLER KENNZ LICHT!!!

I've seen that all E39's have the 2 tweeter grilles in the front doors, and the 1 tweeter grill in the rear doors, but may not actually have tweeters in them. Do you have a DSP unit? (check on the on board monitor for the dsp setting) if you do, wiring in an extra amp is a pita. If not, then it's just a matter of finding a suitable input for the amp to run off (u need to use a low level line converter, available from jay car) From memory UI think I tapped in to the left rear speaker output from the factory amp. Good thing is that the batt is in the boot, so you don't need to run power and ground cables through out the car. There are amp pin out diagrams on the net, but need to identify which one you have first.

Try prying down on the lower control arm with a crow bar while someone else wiggles the lower shock mount in place. From memory you need to disconnect the rear sway bar to allow each lower control arm to swing down further.

Sounds like it will need trans surgery/rebuild/replace or it could just need the valve body serviced. My guess is that they've been told what needs doing...

Easy enough to wire in an amp and sub to fill the lack of low end. Gets a bit rattly in the boot though. I had the 10 speaker option in my 540i and once I installed the sub I was happy with it. The factory e39 stereo is not that bad unless you like high volume, where it gets a bit harsh sounding.

The blonde buffing the paint.

Looking forward to Bugatti's retort.

Will have one available if I can find a set of new old stock sport maxx's in the same size.

Alclad chrome paint would do the trick, although not sure what it's heat tolerence is...

We can check what version of lcm you have tomorrow Jooles, ill bring my scanning/coding tools along.

That grinding sound is not healthy though... It could may well turn out not to be what ya think until you get some one who knows these transmissions well to have a look at it. To have to shell out for new fluid, then only to have to do it again because the trans needs dismantling would be such a waste. My old 540i made this very same grinding sound going up college hill @ 50 - 60k's just cruising, but it was not as loud as yours sounds in that clip, you could barely hear it - This leads me to believe that the TC in your is on it's very last legs, and that replacing the fluid won't do anything. IMO get it diagnosed properly before spending bucks on new fluid.

Have you had the trans looked at by a specialist? Might save you having to pay for the fluid the 2nd time round if you need to have the trans pulled apart.

Hopefully the torque converter isn't as bad as the one here : http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/527361

oops , yeah 245 40/18

If u have access to a hoist.. go to town on it. But if you're relying on axle stands to get the clearance needed then there's always that risk... I'm all for diy but when it comes to safety, hoists have a better track record then axle stands, or trolley jacks. I'm not sure what alternatives there are for fluids, I'd give Ross at BM workshop in botany a bell and see what his opinion would be for fluid choice.

I'm after a set of these tyres for the front to match the rears which were replaced late last year. These are no longer made, but someone may know where some new old stock is ?

That most definitely sounds like the torque converter, especially with rev dips u describe. My old 540i did that (not so much the grinding noise) but the dips at those speeds. It did it for 80,000kms and still does it! Nee trans fluid should sort it but it might be a bit passed that stage with noise. Good luck..

Have you checked the ground cables are tight on the battery and also the one on the drivers side corner of the bonnet?

Yep, dead give away was that it's not a 2 piece rim. Might wanna look at changing tyres too, those Chinese tyres are dangerous.

... with M5 performance too ;-)

Bugger! GLWS

You managed to take a snap of the markings behind the broken wheel? There should be distinct markings on the edges of the barrel, and behind one of the spokes you should see 'Made in germany' and also the AC Schnitzer logo if it's genuine. On the barrel edge you should see 'RONAL' - I think that's the actual manufacturing company AC used for these wheels.

I'd start with a trans fluid flush. Do you know if you have the 5hp19 ZF box ? seems it would since BMW like to use the same trans in different models There's heaps of info on the USA forums about TC issues for that box as it was used in the 530i.