BreakMyWindow

Sticker fail http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.as...amp;permanent=0

Callplus Ltd. NOC ftw

I ended up tapping in to the audio signals via a line output converter. I am very pleased with the results. Ultimatley i want to mount the amp under the rear parcel tray (in the boot) would securing the amp (its about 3 kgs) to the underside of the tray using some washers and self tapping screws casue a wof failure? i'm only drilling four small holes ??

Looks far too nice to butcher imo.

Sweet cheers Brent, yeah the amp I have only has RCA inputs, so looks like i'll need a LOC afterall.

Hi, This may be one for Jochen, or someone who has done this before, I need a bit of clarification.. I have the 10 speaker (4 woofers, 4 mids, and 2 tweeter) non-dsp stereo system in my e39. There is an amp behind the cd changer in the boot that has both the 12 and 26 pin connectors. Im wanting to install an aftermarket 2 channel amp, running in bridged mode to run a subwoofer. Do I need a line output converter in order for the aftermarket amplifier RCA input to accept audio signal from the factory amplifier, or can I just hack up one end of a single RCA cable and tap in to the audio signal outputs for one of the woofers from the factory amp, and plug the unhacked RCA end in to the aftermarket amp? Thanking for help in advance :-)

I believe it also acts as a kettle. Mine had alot of water in it when i removed it

You have the vanos M62 (M6TU).. The only think restricting the exhaust by the sounds, is either the cat's (there are four of them) or the oxygen sensors are giving false readings. Its best that the car is connected to a diagnosis platform while its running i.e in situations where you are giving it herbs. I recently replaced the plugs in mine, and noticed that its now more 'alive' its more keen to rev, and has nice low end pull. I was quoted $27 + gst per plug from BNT (with discount). Take a look at the plugs, if they look worn out then replace them. You can pick up a full set for $130 from supercheap autos, they are the Bosh F7 plugs that come in a pack of 4, they are a platinum-irridium fused plug. I was a little suss at the beginning being much cheaper then the NGK platinums, but can confrim no issues using them. Other things to consider are the Cam speed sensors, they are ~$300 each Air flow sensor $Expensive$ you could try cleaning it with MAF cleaner. You mention it locked in to 2nd gear.. that sounds like it could be a transmission issue as well. Either way get the car diagnosed. If your a DIY type of person, go to www.bimmerforums.com look in the DIY section of the e39 forums section, plenty of useful info there.

ive removed both rear mufflers, didnt really notice a gain, but has a nice v8 bark now. You can get your car re-mapped. I suspect a tune could be made to improve top end. Do you have a vanos m62? Based on the dyno graph plottings i've seen the pre-vanos m62's make more power up top. Ultimatley you'd want a super charger kit, but they are pricey and these days 35 - 40k will get you in to a nice e39 m5.

Nice colour Nice wheels (staggered style 5's) Looks to be a minter! http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-249670005.htm

Your on one of these DSLAM's no doubt : Customer and Service Impact Up to 1640 Wholesale Broadband and 113 Corporate Data customers will be experiencing a loss of service. Known affected parent nodes listed below: ETM-DSLAM-01 ETM-DSLAM-02 OAA-DSLAM-02 HCK-DSLAM-02

hrmm okay was hoping all tyres be in wof condition. Just looking for pics online now of what they'd look like on mine.

with tyres? if so what brand/model of tyres, and the sizes please What offset are the wheels?

Looking to swap my set of 4 genuine 17x8" BBS RC wheels, with 4 new Dunlop Direzza DZ101 235/45/17 tyres. Looking for a set of Staggered 17 or 18" wheels with good tyres, 8" front and 9" wide rear. The rims have some curb damage, but still look the part cleaned up. Being a 2-pice rim, they can be dismantled, repaired and polished up. These are from an e39, so the hub bore diamater is slightly larger then other Bmw models. Hub-rings can be purchased to overcome this. Offset is +20mm all round.

Me too.

i dont like the rusted look. The wheels are beauty's but on that car it makes it look like a sh#t kicker..sh*t kicker being the wheels are worth more than the car.

When i was at hyper tyres getting new tyres, i saw a remus back box with 3" inlet and 2 2'" outlets for around $550

Bide your time, for 25k in a buyers market your bound to pick up a mint example of what your looking for.

E39 M5

Perfect number plate : RIBEMA

I have never made any claims with the insurance compaines ive dealt with in the past, and I have a clean driving record, and no criminal record, plus i'm over 25 so.. Last year June i paid 10500 for my 540i and insured it with State - Full cover for insured value of $9500 was $67 a month with $500 excess. I receive a renewal letter this year from State advising that vehcle is now insured for $5800 @ $65 a month with $500 excess. I called them and said basically WTF!.. Demanded they insure the car for $9500, to which they said sure, but it will now cost u $80 a month. Called up AMI, got a quote and now I pay $65 a month with $250 excess full cover. Told State to go fly a kite! AMI FTW.

ive had both 6 cylinder and 8 cylinder e39's. You can pick up a good deal on a higher mileaged, just have the following thouroughly checked. - Transmission. Majority of e39's here are auto be it imported or Nz new. These are very expensive to replace and repair, they require specialist labour and parts that will most likely need to come direct from Germany. Higher mileage ones should have had a fluid replacement, but also bear in mind the rest of the running gear like prop shaft bearings, flexi disc joints, diff seals and mountings. - Engine. Very robust in my opinion, higher milage ones keep on going strong so long as they are seviced regularly (just like most reputable car makes) Watch out for old looking plastics i.e radiators and expansion tanks, they will be bound to leave u stranded at some stage if a burst water pipe won't.. Engines will be warped useless if severly over heated. The 6's can develop an annoying tick so it pays to start them up cold and have a good listen for this. Powersteering hoses leak but u can live with it depending on how big a leak. - Body. Built like a brick sh*t house, but also very easy to brake plastic fittings if diy'ing stuff. Very well protected from rust so any rust would indicate signs of crappy damage repair or a e39 thats much too low... There are several options for styling.. Factory M body kits for these must be worth at least a decent e30 tho. - Suspension. Designed with comfort and enthusiastic driving in mind.. u wont see any 6 cyl e39 era commodores or falcons with an entirely aluminium suspension setup. a wobbly steering wheel and vibrations coming from front or rear at certain speeds can be from worn busings, particulary thrust arms, and they can be hard to diagnose upon visual inspection. Ball joints and wheel bearings should be tested/checked also, it's important to pay special attention to these items if the car has been lowered and there is little suspension travel left. Tyres wil be eaten in no time if allignment has alot of neg. camber, and toe in/out Make sure u check everything electrical works, there is a good service history, and u will enjoy owning one of these great cars.

My observations in AKL have been : 1.) Stock looking commodores with lowered suspension, i believe all cop spec commonwhores were issued with Fe2 (better handling) suspension packages. 2.) Same as above but with steel wheels and baloon tyres (why have fe2 suspension then?) 3.) large aerials, lights in the rear tray/ftont grill 4.) all of the above plus dirty and and the odd mark around exterior panels (especially in winter) 5.) Any vehcle that u get a gut instinct about, wether it be that the driver is not elderly and *removes racial discrimination comment about certain drivers and their driving styles* and they are driving strictly to the speed limit, obeying all road rules etc. 6.) NZ-spec imported vehicles i.e maxima opposed to cefiro, and number plate fittings are of NZ spec.

bar the odd colour combo, it probably needs some $$$ spent on it to make it reliable. Worth a nosey tho.

Would be a good opportunity to check the valley pan is holding it's coolant. If it leaks it runs down the front of the transmission, and you can see crusted coolant by the bolts of the valley pan cover.