mark247

Waikato Brake and Clutch. They can machine and supply a new parts... I used them and they are awesome, and not as expensive as genuine for parts. Hyrdatech on Kahikatea Drive can lighten your flywheel, if you show them how much you want taken off. Costs about $30 - $40. Z3 Shifter, talk to Jason ( SIR E30 ) and get a brass linkage while you are at it, Kerry has them..

Looking very nice just how it is. Those wheels really set it off. I would love a set.

That conversion kit on driftworks looks like a total piece of ****!

happy day of birthing

They are fugly imo

Way too steep, i bought my entire car with $1200 lol

Oh my god. No wonder people dont drive many nice cars here. The main roads has pot holes the size of e30's in the middle of them!! I like this place though.. beer is 1/7th the price it is in NZ, and so is pretty much everything else as well!

Mosens euro parts will have one

Can you defy the laws of physics now?

wow it looks just like the old one but with a few more lines

want

Looking good g. NZ-BMW would be proud!

If you bought that I'd just go the whole hog and get a driveshaft, pedal box, clutch line etc and convert it. Would save messing around taking it all apart and also would save having to do the conversion under the car in the future..

Might be worth getting a tu meke as deal in the North Island and paying for freight possibly

Kia huritau ki a koe

A lot more work tho. Call around wreckers g, a m20b20 cant be worth that much.. maybe $400 or $500? I sold my m20b25 with everything including loom and ecu and afm for $500 ffs haha.

Here are some photos of how mine was. Since then I have raised the engine a few mm on both mounts which has both made more room for the steering rack ( heat shield still needed moving ) and it has also added a few more mm of much needed space between the inlet manifold and the brake booster. As you can see the flanges on mine are totally OTP so modding the exhaust system to fit was sh*t as, because we couldn't do it under the car because it was not on a hoist, so we ( actually Troy ) had to do it trial and error, but every time you welded it would heat and then warp.. so it just never wanted to line up.. These manifolds are good to look at because it teaches you how NOT to do it haha. Yes you can Flake, but you will just have a big plug for the auto ECU you have to hide. If you were to do it properly though you would obviously strip all the unneeded wires out. I have also read recently on another forum that running the e30 gearboxs on m50s ( which makes them on a funny angle ) can actually cause oil starvation in the gearbox and wear it out... i havent had this issue yet but it can happen, Im not saying dont use your m20 gearbox, but if you can save up for a more suitable gearbox on the propper angle, say out of a e36 or e46 or something it would be a lot better. I think Kerry is running a e39 gearbox with a m20 driveshaft and it fitted.. so that's a nice surprise. He told me the 318i e46 manual boxs are the same as the one he has, just with different gear ratios.. and he has one i think i think in his yard.. so you might want to consider that

I am not sure if the e36 rack will make much of a different. Maybe compare your steering rack with Nathans one, I assume his is standard. I got mine already modded by previous owner, they are not ideal tho.. the two flanges going to the rest of the system are not flush so it made modding the exhaust system even more annoying than it already was. Ever after that the steering still rubbed a bit then giving it the jandal around left corners. A light smash with a hammer on the manifold fixed this a bit but in the end Kerry removed the heat shield on the steering rack and now it's fine. I know a few people with no heat shield on their steering rack and it has never been an issue. Also how you space your engine mounts will determine how much you have to change the extractors. The man to talk to about modding the extractors is Troy, he did his own and they are a lot better than mine. I think he cut the bottom of all the pipes at top of the extractors ( right at the flange ) and folded it downwards which then moves it away from the steering rack, if you get what i mean? I'm sure there is other ways of doing it, I am not handy with a welder at all so I am not really the person who should be giving out advise about this haha. I'll PM you Troys details, but he is in aussie for a while so he might take a while to reply. He may have a photo he can send you.

I compared a 1985 and a 1990 on realoem and they have the same part numbers for both hood and boot.

You need m52 ones because they are stainless, m50 ones dont work because you cant mod them because they are cast iron. Standard, the extractors m50 or m52 will hit the steering rack. I wouldn't bother with a 323i engine because they are only 170hp.. a m50b25 is 20 more...

Sums up life quite nicely haha

I few i dug up out of the woodwork I find rather lol http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U4ZIZe7RIZk http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dMhzo6eVXNY

I met a guy who had one, he soon after got it repossessed haha. I saw this guy in Vienna 3 times in one day riding his around, and he had some guy on a repsol cbr1000 chasing him everywhere. Looked like a good day out to me.

Not sure when I'll get there yet...

The Hofburg Palace in Vienna. Hitler made his speech on the balcony there in 1938 when he anexed Austria. (im guessing you mean the bottom photo)