CamB

Biggererer engine? A silver lining to a crap situation?

James - Torque Performance in Avondale can get them in - its about $1600 plus any sensors? You need to have a discussion with them about whether the Storm meets your needs. Link have a preference for you talking to a distributor rather than them (ie the price is the same). If I thought I could have it installed and tuned for another $1500 I would jump at it, but I imagine quite a bit more unfortunately. The engine in the car is not the one I am going to use for racing - it is just there to get it going and get a base tune: - race engine - rebuilt, forged pistons, o-ringed block, new cam and Ireland Engineering heavy duty rockers - engine in car - E30 M10 bought for a bottle of bourbon, km unknown, condition unknown. Will be used to get Link set-up to start and idle (I need a base tune to start the rebuilt engine on - not a good idea starting an engine with new cams when you don't have a working tune), then will have boost progressively added until the headgasket lets go! If the headgasket holds, I'm gonna see what a bottle of bourbon engine can do.

Its a combination of factors: 1) I have certain standards 2) I have close to no wiring loom (!) - its a big job 3) I need to wire up the fuel pumps and some gauges too 4) I have to wire in a wideband o2 and EGT gauge 5) Not everything (not much) is mounted yet. If I got off my butt and got all the electronic bits mounted and ran the wiring for the fuel pumps it probably wouldn't be too bad, but as it sits it would be a very, very big bill and since I know how to do it myself I'd rather save the dollars for intercooler piping fabrication, race pads, new wheels and tyres, tuning, some more tuning, etc etc... And for the race engine which isn't assembled yet - only have a crapper M10 in there to get it running. The poor headgasket better be very very afraid.

Without wishing to be argumentative... the Xtreme is more like $800 more AND you need an external MAP sensor, so in total its more than 50% more. I really, really wanted to justify upgrading but couldn't, so I got a Storm. Would be nice to have some time to put it in really

You sure do sound like a sales rep!! (I don't mind - I bought a Link coz I think its a great product). I'm not convinced about the benefits of sequential injection - I understand it is great for emissions but can only extract some very minor amount of extra power. The main benefit I see of the Extreme is that you can use low impedance peak and hold injectors, and that it has a lot more inputs/outputs (which potentially becomes important on a 6 cylinder with idle control and dual vanos).

Arguably if something is to be a true collectible it should be relatively unmolested - an E30 in LHD is a better car (no compromise on the headers, no big bendy bar on the brakes). Personally I don't think it matters on a regular M3, but I can see why some do. I do think it will matter in the future on the limited edition ones, but really that's just my opinion. I don't personally mind driving LHD, except if you have to go into a parking building. Oh, and my right hand is crap at changing gears.

It seems the answer is a combination of: - E36 M3 ***Evo*** lower arms. Has to be Evo - offset control arm bushings - spacing the strut away from the knuckle and/or adjustable top mounts Search threads by user for e30-323ti and "camber". http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....1&hl=camber That's easy - adjustable pedal box. The car deserves better than a booster. Probably anything off an E36, although E34 would have baller offset.

Does it give a stretch measurement etc?

You know - you might be right. I can't remember. I am mostly just irritated that they cert you for a height and for a certain width and diameter of wheels - its should be subject to a minimum and a rolling diameter tolerance respectively.

Its an interesting one - FrantiC's right, the police were clearly just a little confused. They know they need to measure that gap, but not that they only do it when the car IS CERTED (to make sure you are within the stupidly small certed limit). Even then they're wrong - the cert measurement is ground to arch. It's just a way of measuring the height. Not certed, the 100mm rule applies. Exhaust and body kit don't count either: If you a super-keen, you could try sending in a simple letter saying that you had been fined for something which is not illegal, and could they please remove the fine. If they argue, provide the LVV guys letter. It would be good to know (for others reading) if you can successfully negotiate without going to see an LVV certifier.

I've been looking at too many modified ones - the wheels look TINY!

This doesn't do the job of the ICV (stabilise falling revs, adjust revs for electrical load + a/c) - it just makes the car less of a pain in the arse when cold. If you don't mind warming it up then no big deal. It would in fact be a valid question to wonder why I am bothering with cold start assistance on the race car - the reality is that its attached to the TB in my case, so why not (its on the right in the picture - Honda Prelude TB).

What about one of these: http://www.firstfives.org/faq/aux_air_valv..._air_valve.html The later one - it has 12v and ground in, it attached to some part of the head and/or valve cover, and when the head is cold it lets air through (so you'd plumb it from one side of the throttle plate to the other). Basically, it raises the idle when cold, but doesn't control it. So you'd need to figure out a way of attaching it to the valve cover or head in a way which could conduct heat to it. I've got one of them from an M10 that I'm not using (ie free if you want it). My solution was to get the manifold modifed to use a 60mm Honda throttle body with a proper TPS and a coolant activated cold start air bypass built into the throttle body. I am not planning on using ECU idle control.

I'm going to reiterate (for the third or fourth time in this thread!) how important it is to do this for anyone reading but not understanding. *** You don't hit any part of the tie rod or ball joint. *** You don't need to.

Land speed record candidate!

Do you have a link to such a line driver? Thanks!

Has it run yet?

The diff in the M3 is funny - its the factory lockup (or lack of it). Don't get me wrong - its definitely an LSD but its pretty soft. Interestingly it locks up a little better if you're aggressive. I'd had what morerevsm3 talks about done for my 2002 (lower ramp angle on acceleration side) - its was really aggressive on acceleration but less so on decel which assisted turn-in (although as Kerry notes there are other ways). I also had an extra clutch. It wasn't actually that tight, but with the ramp angles it engaged strongly. It was predictable and easy to drive. I'd love to get the same done for my M3 at some stage (for street). That's about it for me ... I've reached the limit of my own knowledge. I've got a lot to learn about car setup (the next project for me once the car is running properly).

QFT. Not even a V8 could save a Z3.

Fair call - was meaning/thinking track rather than rally and generally forgetting about front wheel drive.

Detroit locker is different. Google it! Presumably the best option for an E30 is whatever the factory did, due to unlimited budget leading to best alternative: http://www.racecarsdirect.com/listing/2273...E30_75_LSD.html

Kerry - are you sure all of that applies equally to independent rear suspension? I notice all the examples you've given are non-independent. Re: the Quaife - Torsen style diffs not so good when you are on/off the throttle or under brakes (ie racing) compared to a clutch LSD.

QFT - nothing wrong with engine bay bling.

Prolly only about 3-4k fitted* * in 1986.

I don't really see the point to v-mount. I know the reasons that get quoted, but I reckon the difference in heat and in intake path would make bugger all difference.