Boost Junky

Thanks guys! Yea Sammy its definitely time consuming im glad its done.. something id hate to have to re-do... even taking the manifold off is a timely process as it is lol

No need for sounds when you got a nice sounding 6cyl perched in front of ya Nath! but nah ur right it is nice to have a descent set of sounds when your travelling. I really hope you go down the DOHC track for your own good and because my car needs an older brother haha!

So I got busy again on the weekend, just about had enough to be honnest lol! Saturday I decided to attack my oil leak problem good and proper. At first I was just going to remove the valve cover and check the two front bolts that hold the front of the head to the block in the timing cover area... They were loose out of their threads! My father recomended me to pull the head off and clean the head gasket off in case alot of oil had got in and around the MLS gasket, so what turned into a quick fix ended up me with my motor in half again. Me and my young apprentice got a bottle of meths and rags out and cleaned each layer of the MLS and both the hea and block serfices. With the parts all cleaned up again I Used the 3 Bond Grey Silicon RTV and layered it around the timing chain area on the block, dropped the headgasket on and then applied it to the head and bolted her all back up. So far looking good I have not seen a spot of oil In this photo you can see in red where the oil leak was coming from and the light wet look trailing down the front timing cover evidence of a slow but worrying oil leak... With the Rugby on and a pub calling my name I decided to give the work a break till the morning Sunday morning I somehow managed too pull myself out of bed and make more progress. Time to finalize my exhaust system with some fancy heat wrap skills, didnt realise how much time it would consume. I wrapped my exhaust manifold and exhaust downpipe. Now the trick here was to keep it wet, this keeps the wrap tight and bound to the steel until your ready to tie it on and it gives it a tight bond finish once its dry also. I used small CV Boot clips for the exhaust manifold and Large CVB clips on the downpipe to tie the wrap on. I found this was the most in-expensive, tidiest and tightest way to tie the wrap. Pictures as follows: It took me a whole 10hours to wrap the manifold, downpipe and put it all back together. Getting a spanner and ratchet onto the 24 manifold stud bolts was not an easy task at all this took me atleast an hour. Half the problem was the downpipe being in the way and also the heat wrap making the manifold bulkier and harder to get at some stud nuts. Now with the final front exhaust section finished from the manifold back to the downpipe I was able to add in all necessary gaskets. Still have no idea what it sounds like with the system all sealed yet as the car decided not to start last night at 10:30. I was one tired mess and more stressed than ever so decided to give it a rest for a few days. Im hoping the plugs have just fouled up, cant think of anything that I missed when I reassembled the motor. Will have full shots of the exhaust system very soon I just need to finish the tip, paint the exhaust and a few support brackets Cheers

Win Nathan That is gonna a badass project im already excited! +1 for M50 stroker chur

Not much as far as the wheels go atm Ashkan haha, gonna cost me $650 too do all four guards and tidy up the body thats not including paint. Still a damn descent price though, im going to get the alignment and tune done before i address the guards issue.

I miss my AC aye, but when I done the M50 conversion i got rid of it, i went to relieve all the gas and it was all gone anyway so just removed all my lines. With my Integra though it still had a lot of gas in it as I found out when I de-gased it in my parents garage... WRONG MOVE! Filled the air with fog and covered the car, roof and ground with a foamy type gas definitely a messy operation. woops....

Radiator hoses are done in gates from George Stocks they specialise in Gates. Problem is alot of their hoses are kits for certain cars but if you got the shape they may be able to supply you with hoses that are close enough where you may have to slightly cut them. Silicon vacuum/boost line will be fine for any vacuum hoses in your engine bay. Its just your fuel and oil hoses that need to be fuel or oil rated.. im pretty sure redline, pioneer or segedins do silicon and fuel/oil resistant hose.

Ahh yes indeed I must be, didnt realise they were different shot for clearing that up. So you would need different length springs like Henry was saying to get the right height?

Yea that makes sense John. I dont really want fuel vapor anywhere lol.. Ive never known a fuel tank to have a breather on them Ive had a few cars where they build up a vacuum and you hear that vacuum release when you remove the fuel cap?

The fact that the E30 has lasted on the petty light for well over a year now

Damn that sux Henry! As E30-323ti has mentioned which adjustment do you mean? The collar that the spring sits on simply adjusts how much the spring is compressed not the height of the car. I would have thought there was a second collar which sits against the lower half of the strut and you would wind that up and down to lower/raise the car.

Cheers Brent! Thats what Jamez explained it as also so thats that. Jamez said to put a small filter on it or is it safe to block it off?

Damn thats nice Ray! Looks very staunch

Haha top effort! That looks like alot of fun that gravel road.. not so fun if he lost it at high speed though! What motor btw?

Haha that would be priceless to watch! Forgot about the brake test, wonder how much they actually put their foot down? When I got my cert on the Integra he took me for a drive to show me what was wrong and he was pretty easy on the car... thats not to say that he wasnt when he first took it for a drive and I wasnt there lol...

Get a welder Henry!

Happy birthday Atta! +2 on the skid!

Lol yea ive had a few splatters fall on my head when i was welding my van exhaust last year Alex. Anyway back on topic, Thursday and Friday night I was setting up my RX7 injectors and RRFPR and came across this extra fuel return line as labelled "Im not sure?" As you can see in the picture there is the fuel feed which goes to the fuel filter, the fuel return which comes from the fuel rail and last of all the unknown extra fuel pipe which also trails back to the fuel tank. Now this is all from factory when it was a simple 318i. From memory im sure there was most likely a charcoal cannister with a hose going to that unknown fuel pipe, pretty sure the charcoal cannister mysteriously went walkies one night on a test drive mission upon the completion of the M50 conversion haha! Anyone able to shed me some light please? p.s excuse the pile of grinder rust my engine bay needs serious attention as does the whole car at some stage haha! Luke

I dont see a problem with a wastegate blocked off with a sealed plate.. as far as wof and cert is concerned you cannot have a leaking exhaust system between the motor and rear end of your vehicle. But hey thats just theory John they no doubt will know your exact intentions with there being no pipe between your wastegate out let into the downpipe... But hey try it I wanna know how you get on for when I go for my cert

That is so badass James! Cant wait to see it done, now you see what I had to faced fitting the twin cam motor in pretty tight aye! They fill the engine bay nice though and look like the are meant to be there when complete

You really know its cold when you go to open your car door and the handles are stuck... you then proceed to the garden hose.. turn the tap on and nothing comes out the end, hello the hose has frozen up. Then you take a walk inside and realise the laundry tap is also frozen so you cant even fill a bucket of water to de-ice your windscreen! Finally you tkae the bucket inside to the kitchen.. fill your bucket of water, go tip it over the windescreen and that bucket of water freezes on the windscreen too haha!

Oh my! So damn nice Henry, those are gonna be super tough that car bible is awsome eh!

Sooooo true lol! I just spent all evening putting my RX7 injectors and hooked up all my Rising rate FPR and the damn car wont start... tried hooking my standard injectors back up now they dont seal into the fuel rail properly got so angry now my parents cant get their cars into the garage lol.. sounds like we both had a good night on our E30's John haha, Like Nath said give it 24hrs As far as the starter motor goes does yours have 3 terminals on it or 2? If it has 3, 2 of them are the smaller ones i think and they gotta be round the right way im pretty sure, dont quote me on this though memories a bit vauge since mine and blairs manual conversions.... just a thought.

Im pretty sure that it just unclips dude, you can get proper interior pullers for use with trim and door cards we sell them at work. The inner plastic part (not the bit under the door) I think has three clips underneath it that go down into the sill, they are a pain to undo I know, dont be suprised if you break one or two. You just have to work them gently and slowly.

Nah I had to go that wide it was a challenge and im going to going to finish it haha Yea get him on here, mint how he score the photo shoot? Sweet you shall be impressed when its finished i hope