bmpower

Just as i thought!! Wanted to confirm though. Thanks Glen.

do e30 coupe seats fit into e30 sedans? is there a difference between fl and fl? or do they all use the same rails/mounting? Thanks.

210km/h in e36 323i and wanted to climb more. about 280 in a lambo murcielago, 280 in a ferrari 360 spyder, just over 200 in a porsche 911 turbo ( last 3 on private airfield in UK )

Haha thats not such a bad idea, especially for those of us with e30's!

Funnily enough my one had been 'temporarily fixed' too, which made it worse - hence all the lower rust! If you can take all the stuff out yourself it will make a huge difference, means they don't have to spend time and your $$$ taking it all out and putting it back in - the panelbeater spent a day alone just on the firewall rust. If you are going to do it yourself make sure you find the source of the leak at the same time - otherwise it'll keep happening and maybe worse! Yea that cost was for everything - which should have been cheaper than what 'joe bloggs' off the street would be quoted as i work in the car industry. Mech the car is getting headers (coming next week) and a complete new custom system to go with it. Then maybe something with the airbox, again unsure at this stage. Possibly chipping of some kind, however i think my ecu is the one that can't be chipped! Oh and all the belts etc to be changed. I'll see how she goes with the headers and decide from there i think! I did consider an engine swap, but can't be bothered with the hassle to be honest! I have an M50B25 sitting at home... ...if anyone wants one...

Keep an eye on trademe, i got a nice set of 17" ac schnitzer reps for around that mark, with tyres. Just be careful of offset - i had to use 3mm spacers on the front to clear my brake calipers.

Haha yea it wasn't too good! ....i cursed for many hours after finding it all in the firewall/footwell! But i got it fixed and i wouldn't have it any other way! I have a smile on my face everytime i drive it! I'm not sure what you 'need' to strip away - i left it to the experts! I just pulled out the superficial stuff seats/glovebox/plastic etc, and pulled up carpet but not right out. I didn't touch any wiring/mech stuff. The bill for this lot of rust - for the sils and footwell came to just under of 1k. I'd already paid out just short of $600 for the roof/sunroof and rust round tail lights to be done and repainted. So the rust bill so far is about $1500.

What condition are they in? ie. curbing tyres etc? Where are you located?

would you sell the wheels seperatly? price?

Yeah it should look a bit better when i get round to putting them in. The exhaust/headers are next on the list along with changing all the belts/tensioner! Then springs will probably go in!

If i'm right in reading that reg as DLS281 its an e36 320!??! http://www.carfax.co.nz/car/?plate=dls281

did you get them in alright then carl??

Yeah there was quite a bit Max, hopefully i got it all! Although i'm sure i'll find some more in the future. I've got a real soft spot for this car now, so i had to save it in the end! Yeah i think dropping it a bit will change it completely! Oh and i also put in a blackout grill, and have eyebrows for it too! Thanks Mike for those! (323e30)

A couple of pics of the said car - were taken quite at least a month ago - will take some more soon.

So i got this a few months back, then decided last month to sell it. I was keen on selling mine and getting 'togates' one! So obviously that didn't happen and i was left with a dilemma, sell mine and try and find a 2.5 man coupe, or continue with this sedan! And i guess it was a case of 'better the devil you know' in the end! The car is a 1986 Nz New pre/fl 325i manual sedan in burgandy with beige interior, 238clicks. When i bought it, the first thing i did was get the rust removed from the sunroof/roof, and round both rear taillights and re-painted the whole roof and majority or rear guards. I then picked up some 17" Ac Schnitzer reps for a good price and put them on - they may be changed in the future.... After getting a wof check it was going to fail on rust in both sils, water in headlights, cracked power steering belt, rear tyres (bottlecaps at that stage), hole in exhaust. So after much thinking i decided to go ahead with sorting it all out!! So inbetween me deciding to keep it, some **** reversed into me in BP of all places, denting the front right guard (not too major). It was a bit of a hassle but in the end he and his insurance paid for it. So while the car was in the panelbeaters i thought it would be a good opportunity to get the rust in the sils sorted out! To make it a bit cheaper i pulled out most of the interior and then discovered all the rust in the passengers footwell/firwall! Got the car back this week and now 'should' be rust-free!! Next on the list is to have all belts/tensioner changed, new oil filter and oil. Just after getting it i threw 6 new plugs in. After that will be the exhaust, for which i have a set of headers coming which will bolt up to a brand new exhaust system and back-box (haven't decided what set-up to go with yet). Then finally put in the H&R springs i got from Keith last month!! Below is few of the 50 odd pics the panelbeater took for me of the rust!

The hartge tip is very similar to the acs one, will try and post pic soon. The acs will, once i get it to fit go on mums e36 328i touring, and the hartge one will possibly make it onto my e30 325i after headers arrive and the exhaust gets a complete overhaul!! Still toying with exhaust ideas for it at the moment. Car is looking awesome mark - well chosen mods, a car to be proud of!

Mine..... Can't belive i spent $155 on an armrest, but at least my arm will thank me, and i'm sure the E36 Coupe will be happy too! Thanks in advance ray!

Does anyone know if there is a difference between a '92 E36 325i sedan and '92 E36 325i coupe exhaust?? Will they swap over? Is the back section/rear muffler the same? Thanks.

RUST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ...My 1986 325i is in the panelbeaters at the moment getting about 1k's worth of rust done, that's without the $600 odd i'd already spent on rust! Main places to check for rust that i know off are: 1. Sunroof/Roof 2. Round taillights 3. In sills inner and outer 4. Along bottom of doors/hinges/on rear doors bottom of window at rear 5. Passengers side firewall 6. Boot - just above lock ...those are the main places i know off. I'll have some pics soon of what it all looked like before they fixed it! Will post them up soon!

If it helps, the leather is really really soft and quite thin. nothing like handbrake ones.... and thinner and softer than e39 ones etc, but hope you can sort something! would be interesting to see how easy it is to do.

Yes you can have a leather boot on it - this is my old mans '96 e36 323i sedan. I have no idea whether its facotry or a/m, but his car seams to be well spec'd, m-wheel, 2 tone leather, woodgrain, etc

Have one from e30 318i and also one from e36 325i

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-167334502.htm I know its an import, but damn i love this colour with the white leather. has an m-tech steering wheel, bbs rims, heated seats, sunroof, mtech kit and wait for it ............cupholders!!!!! Could be a nice buy for someone! If i could be bothered with the hassle and my car didn't have only 60k i would be keen to sell mine and get it! Oh and another, same colour etc, lower k's for 9k http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-167213339.htm

First in reply to the aa report - yes you would be alot better off by getting a bmw tech to look at it, but failing that get an aa report or get a mechanic to look at it. in a jatco box it is most common between 2nd and 3rd, but i also had it between 1st and 2nd. i'm not a mechanic but i'll describe it the best i can. It normally happens under load ie going uphill. it will be in 2nd for example, then as it changes to 3rd it feels as though it disengages 2nd then pauses and revs up by about 1,000rpm, then drops revs back down and engages 3rd. basically it is not a smooth gear change. i would take the car up a hill if possible, that's where it is most noticiable, however it can be picked up on the flat too. it might be worth a quick google on 'flaring' or on the 'e36 jatco auto box' there might be a better explanation. Headlining as in the ceiling inside the car - the material comes away from its backing board (crap glue was used) and same with the material on the door cards, if its not vinyl. again it is most common on imports where their weather takes its toll a bit more by unsticking the glue. nz new cars tend to be less likely to have this happen, but i have seen a couple that have sagged.

My 96 323i coupe had 50k on the clock when i bought it - at 52k it needed a gearbox recon due to the 'jatco jerk' it cost just over 3k to do. if you can get a nz new example with the zf tranny i would take it over the import - the zf seem to cope with cold starts alot better too, having said that, now mine has been done it seems to be fine - my dads 96 323i sedan has 140k on the clock and hasn't had a recon since we've had it. The best advice when buying a car is to get 2 things done, 1. a 'vir report' or 'lemon check' - they are the same thing but will check there is no money owing and any other securities on the vehilce and also odo accuracy and whether it is a damaged import of not. is about $10 2. an aa report/inspection - they do 2, one is about $60 and is a mech check the other is about $120 and is a full mech and body inspection, or alternativly get a bmw workshop to check it out. Spending $150 in the first instance could possibly save you alot of heartache if the vehicle is no good. the vir report has saved me twice, once for odo and once for damaged import. i ended up buying from a dealer, where there is alot more comeback. i work in the industry. my 2c....