tibbs.james

Hi Guys As title I am looking for an E30 open diff, not too concerned on ratio as long as its not a 4.45 Small or Medium case would be fine, in particular no noises or whining, leaky seals would be acceptable as long as the price is right. I'm in Chch Cheers Jimmy.

Paul Carter From Import Parts in Chch has owned both of these cars from new back in the day. and describes having both cars very similar to what Incary has said He preferred the torque of the 325 but still rated the merc very highly

HB Dave !

People do similar to Nissan cast manifolds all the time I gather they are tig welded normally Should be fine

Where is one of those "Face Palm . GIF" pictures.......

I used TRW discs on my car and they have been fine ( cheap fluid has been my only problem ), I have recently found Chch BMW prices to be very reasonable and next time i would probably use a genuine part if i did not upgrade to something more "effective" like Glen has mentioned.

Once you get to this stage it would be recommended to do a freshen up of the bottom end another $1000 to get the basics right (Hone,Rings, & bearings & balance) is going to go a long way to making things better overall. Especially if you get so far on the cylinder head and spin a bearing / break a rod bolt, or end up with low compression on one cylinder.

Sammy J Get an E36 Steering Rack in there before you get your headers built. Riley tried my car with E36 rack and is kicking himself for not doing this in his V8 build ! Nice job on the V8 swap, if it goes like Riley's car then you will have a lot of fun.

What is the cost in an O-Ring Vs using a MLS HG ? You could even find that using a Genuine BMW HG + ARP head stud kit is enough. By the time you are getting to giving the HG a hard time you would be about ready to upgrade to some forged pistons i would think. At least on Boosted Nissan motors this seems the case.

The shocks work probably not very nice with lower or firmer springs. if you don't like them they were free anyway Send me a PM

Suspension Parts are now Free I could deliver them to get rid of them in CHCH if somebody wants one. taking up space & I need them gone, perfect if you have a damaged front strut or are missing some top hat Parts. the Steering Joint, Call it $40, these cost over $1000 complete from BMW Germany and are unavailable in NZ. this one is mint still has virgin rivets. http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....st&id=19961 its the one on the top

If you do your preparation then you can get the box in in a weekend without being stressed or rushing. There are some baisc things that are just going to help experienced or now. 1 x new master & slave cylinder 2 x nice new clutch and pilot bearing & clutch centering tool 3 x all the correct tools, jack stands big jack, sockets extensions TORQUE WRENCH. 4 x Space to do it, and a tidy work area. Once you have all this, ONLY THEN could you consider somebody helping you do the job. As mentioned only swap over the pedals. you could do this even before you get whoever to help you. you could also drain the auto box , unbolt the drive shaft & remove the exhaust shield and do the preparation stuff that isn't difficult. Even making sure its clean under there will be a big help later on when its time to remove the auto box. All this stuff takes a fair amount of time and when you only have limited access to a experienced person ( sure beer is cheap but it still costs money & you still don't want to slow up somebody else s time with family or their own cars ) yeah Good luck with the swap & hit it at pace. I did mine and if there is one thing to remember is undo the kick down cable before you pull the auto out, mine swung round and got me really bad in the arm and nearly broke my wrist. Also do NOT USE normal sockets on the bell housing bolts NO it wont work. Get the correct torx sockets.

I have for sale/swap factory E30 320i springs shocks & strut housings( front & rear ) Shocks work fine but are not the greatest, springs are normal height and not sagging. Front shock housings are 45mm ABS versions with good top hats & spring wheel bearings also seem ok. price = box of macs Gold mint Steering Joint $75 Pictures tomorrow when i get my camera back.

Sounds Good Dude Maybe Sunday Arvo ? send me a PM

Hi Guys My 320i is for sale in Classic Car Magazine, or see my old for sale thread http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....94&hl=jimmy Price Lowered to $3000 Due to the diff being a bit noisy. Cheers Jimmy

Shingle road + Lowered Car in Rural Area This is why you need a sump Guard. Yes i do live on a Farm and drive on a shingle road daily.

Oh Man Somebody was on sick leave when they copied those wheels. BSA ones turned out a bit fail, I think you have nothing to worry about

Still for sale, I wont change the asking price as its listed in classic car for the same amount. Make a Low offer perhaps? I'm getting ready to accept quite a lot lower than my asking price ....... I If you have something in the equiv lent price range/condition to trade I would also consider this too.

Not sure about Jamex springs But Koni's + Eibach Progressive springs = Stupid good handling with the shocks set to conservative rebound settings ( could be say way way way firmer ) Front and rear cambers kits are available to normal shock/spring setups anyway. If you don't think your car Handles good enough after that, try some white line sway bars. Rileys 340i has a fairly conservative spring shock setup but with all the bushings and the fat sway bars it totally dealt to Ruapuna raceway. Rileys car made me realize good handling doesn't necessarily mean ultra rate springs.

Do Headers, cam and valves and when that gets boring then put the head onto a 2.7 block. that way if said mods are enough that's cool if they are not, its all ready for a new block anyway and you didn't buy things twice.

Yes this is what i ment. I have not done the inlet manifold yet only the cylinder head. Thanks, i wasn't sure going that fine was necessary but i will do that too. I will have the machine shop parts wash the heads before and after they do their machine work to it.

So after all this talk i did some " TIDYING UP & PORT MATCHING " all in all i think it went rather well 1, Using a rotary carbide cutting tool I first matched to the intake manifold gasket. 2, Again using the rotary carbide cutter in the die grinder i went over the entire port to remove the "as cast" surface. 3, Using a standard Abrasives brand Mandrel and Cartridge roll ( 40 grit ) I went over the port again to give it a nice machine type finish. The intake port feels slightly rough to the touch & I am unsure if i should go over it with the 80 grit or not. It seems like such an improvement over OEM that I don't want to take it too far.

Chair = yes something for taller people = yes A real mouse to use and not a touch pad. Something you can text it so that it charges the amount to your phone. Not everybody has a wallet full of coins or a credit card.

Uh I have worked out what happened. It looks like as i was expanding the piston ring, the tool got all wonky- and of course myself having not used a ring expander very often more pressure plus twisting = boom. I tested this on an old piston ring and while it installed fine it felt similar to what it did when the other one broke. I have found a way to get my "individual" piston ring of the same brand through an engine shop. I have also successfully installed the other pistons-rings and bearings to very good results. However a bad experience has worked out alright in the end and i know for next time. and I have my engine block built up minus one piston.

Well done for saving another car! once you get over some of the little niggles you will love it to bits !