e30ftw

What Part # is it, I'll check? Could be multiple AFAIK, Across year / model. e36 328i from RealOEM shows 13621703275

I forgot to ask you but I ended up ordering a 80/88 switch from pelican the other week. Got mine setup with a relay works really well with a 16" electric fan kicking in at 80C, Keeps it right on half way constantly. Wiring is piss easy.

I need one of these Foot mounts, from an E30 318i Facelift - which has the expansion tank radiator mounted to the side of the radiator. Looks like below, This is the passenger side one :

bump

Yes I have, wish I bought one on my last pelican order but I may do another.. How much does it affect drivability of the car? I assumed it was similar to the m20 one where it's there to sense the engine position for ignition timing, if it were bad the car wouldn't fire type thing. Will look into it though probably the only thing I haven't touched haha.

Yeah thing is it's run fine before and still does, But sometimes (actually most of the time), it is just quite hesitant like it sounds like it's going hard but it's not really. Feels like the cars heavy kind of thing? Hard to explain. I know that method, But I am meaning if it's only vacuum leaking under engine load in high rpm. How are you able to tell.

You need to wire it to the C101 plug, there will be the temp sensor (unless you wired it to the M50 wire). I put the brown sensor in, cut the plug too (any 2 prong plug fits) then run the wire to the C101 which goes to the temp gauge. IIRC the M50 has 2 separate sensors, so you may have one you can swap out and plug in. I don't have an m50 however so can't comment 100% how it fits..

Use the brown temp sensor from an m20, It's a sensor dedicated to the temp gauge, blue one on m20 is for the ECU. I'm not 100% on the m50, but on my M52 there was a screw in the head I removed and it let me fit the brown sensor in next to the ECU one.

OK So now I have done VANOS seals, Cam position sensor (fault coded when I checked it at Andy's), Intake air temp sensor and coolant sensor. It is still running abit sluggish and has a small miss / hesitation and never really takes off like I know it wants to and has done before. My guess is it has to be a vacuum leak, the only place will be at the crank case vent, I did block this off at some point and it made no difference to the idle, But possibly under load the flimsy connector to the valve cover could be a vac leak. How is everyone else running their CCV with an M50 manifold on M52? (I haven't blocked it and taken it for a drive however this will be my next step) I'm looking into the oil separator valve found on M50 engines, Looks like a valve that sits inline with the crank case hose that regulates how much of the crank case it's venting into the intake? Any suggestions for tracing vacuum leaks under load? My idle is perfect, 900 solid no fluctuations or anything. So I feel if there is a leak which would likely be the cause to my driving issues it must be on throttle under load?

Anyone have an M52B28 MAF for a reasonable price?

Hmm true, wasn't aware it needed some bedding in. I replaced a whole bunch though, Coolant temp sensor, Intake air temp sensor, Cam position sensor, VANOS seals, Oil / Coolant change and cleaned out the ICV. It's idling better but seems quite sluggish. Knowing me I probably missed something somewhere..

Yep it did. Sure got me.. I've replaced everything now and went for a drive but it seems real hesitant now. Wasn't the improvement I was hoping for

Sorted it, I had only cut and removed the teflon outer ring on the old one, didn't notice the o'ring underneath it. Mine too slid right out, nice and tight now can't wait to see how it goes tomorrow

VANOS Seal reaplacement - On a single Vanos M52, I have the new seals. I don't really get what the Besian Systems write up wants me to do with 2 seals - It says insert the o-ring into the piston groove, then it says insert the Teflon seal into the groove. They don't look like they will go ontop of eachother or are they supposed to?? Help I'm half way through haha

Nah bought a spare set when working through my misfire issue, which turned out to be cam sensor / 02 sensors. This stuffs just spares / double ups.

Bump - Edited original post. Price drop on water temp sensor, added M52 Coils.

BUMP - Cam sensor sold, Coolant sensor take $30 shipped

BUMP, Take offers.

Not much help, but holey doesn't look like that's ever had an oil change. Your whole engine will be like that.

Yeah technically you need a cert. But VTNZ is pretty dum, didn't even notice my M52B28 in an e30. YOLO

$20 for M52 Water Temp sensor, Brand new. $80 set of 6x M52 Coils

Where about's are you? Some good suggestions here in a thread a few months back : http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/46563-flywheel-lightening-where/?hl=%2Bflywheel+%2Blightening I ended up going with Howat Engineering down here, got it from 8.4 to 6.5kg lightened and balanced for $80

Any starter will fit the gearbox - Just need to match the flywheel with the starter so if it's an M20 flywheel that's what you need I have a spare one if you need one closer to wellington.

It's actually sitting T piped between the Intake boot and ICV line, so kind of inbetween the TB and ICV. So unless the engine is sucking alot of air through the ICV line not sure if it makes much of a difference. I may give it a go though and see how it runs like that.

I really can't think of any places there would be a vacuum leak, all the hoses seals etc are new. The only actual difference is I am not running the CCV system the M52 normally has, instead I ran a hose from the crank case into the intake like an m50. One thing I notice, If I take the oil cap of the engine while running, the idle turns really rough (simulates a vacuum leak?), When I put it back on, it idles perfectly again. True I actually have a new water temp sensor I never installed. Slipped my mind, But I guess that will make sense if the ecu thinks the engine is still cold and runs it richer.