e30ftw

No mention of the S62 swap or is that still a secret?

Google e30 ETM, (Electric troubleshooting guide), Find one of the same year then find the brake wiring schematic. Easiest way to find how the circuit works and what you are looking for, also lists all the connectors and their locations listed somewhere too if you need to go hunting.

There are guys selling the service on Ebay, I used member 'DanThe' for an MS41 M52 ECU on e30zone - Try PM him if your on that forum, he might be able to or can point you in the right direction.

Hi Ron, According to my physics calculations, it still flows out the exhaust. Hope this helps. Cheers.

And your selling? What's a S54 worth?

A - vacuum line, Use it with the FPR B - Intake air temp sensor, won't work with m52. Hopefully you know you need to mount your M52 one somewhere, it's normally clip in style won't fit in B.

Oh yeah was using the old one then, bought stuff of you in October then since November never got a reply. Now I know!

Sorry can't help and slightly unrelated, But I have e-mailed you a few times since November querying things and never got a reply - Thought you had changed e-mail or weren't around anymore. E-mail issues?

Stricter emissions standards at the time of the m52, else I am sure they could have pulled out a lot more power out of it like the s52 which was also built with a noose around its neck.

2, Like below (from google images)

Don't think so sorry, P/N 13-62-1-703-993 Seems to fit M52/S52, M62, M73, M54, S62

6.5/7L

I swear every time I look on here you have a new thread about your car, Surely you could find this all on google it's been asked many times.

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You can use any of the struts, they typically chop the strut tube off and weld the coilovers onto the hub, which you need to have done by a certified welder who can certify the welds which you need for an LVV these days.

That's the retrofitted Aircon. I'm not sure how much of it is OEM, But mine had the exact same as yours. Your best bet would be to plug those 4 spade terminals into the new OEM Resistor, instead of playing around with that wiring. I took mine all out when I removed A/C and now my blower doesn't work at all, it was also powering my windows so I had to re-wire those. Not sure how it's wired in and what happens with the original wiring, But you will see extra wiring around your battery, to the front aircon and fan, into the cabin where the ECU loom fits through the firewall and across to the fusebox with a relay.

What Part # is it, I'll check? Could be multiple AFAIK, Across year / model. e36 328i from RealOEM shows 13621703275

I forgot to ask you but I ended up ordering a 80/88 switch from pelican the other week. Got mine setup with a relay works really well with a 16" electric fan kicking in at 80C, Keeps it right on half way constantly. Wiring is piss easy.

I need one of these Foot mounts, from an E30 318i Facelift - which has the expansion tank radiator mounted to the side of the radiator. Looks like below, This is the passenger side one :

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Yes I have, wish I bought one on my last pelican order but I may do another.. How much does it affect drivability of the car? I assumed it was similar to the m20 one where it's there to sense the engine position for ignition timing, if it were bad the car wouldn't fire type thing. Will look into it though probably the only thing I haven't touched haha.

Yeah thing is it's run fine before and still does, But sometimes (actually most of the time), it is just quite hesitant like it sounds like it's going hard but it's not really. Feels like the cars heavy kind of thing? Hard to explain. I know that method, But I am meaning if it's only vacuum leaking under engine load in high rpm. How are you able to tell.

You need to wire it to the C101 plug, there will be the temp sensor (unless you wired it to the M50 wire). I put the brown sensor in, cut the plug too (any 2 prong plug fits) then run the wire to the C101 which goes to the temp gauge. IIRC the M50 has 2 separate sensors, so you may have one you can swap out and plug in. I don't have an m50 however so can't comment 100% how it fits..

Use the brown temp sensor from an m20, It's a sensor dedicated to the temp gauge, blue one on m20 is for the ECU. I'm not 100% on the m50, but on my M52 there was a screw in the head I removed and it let me fit the brown sensor in next to the ECU one.

OK So now I have done VANOS seals, Cam position sensor (fault coded when I checked it at Andy's), Intake air temp sensor and coolant sensor. It is still running abit sluggish and has a small miss / hesitation and never really takes off like I know it wants to and has done before. My guess is it has to be a vacuum leak, the only place will be at the crank case vent, I did block this off at some point and it made no difference to the idle, But possibly under load the flimsy connector to the valve cover could be a vac leak. How is everyone else running their CCV with an M50 manifold on M52? (I haven't blocked it and taken it for a drive however this will be my next step) I'm looking into the oil separator valve found on M50 engines, Looks like a valve that sits inline with the crank case hose that regulates how much of the crank case it's venting into the intake? Any suggestions for tracing vacuum leaks under load? My idle is perfect, 900 solid no fluctuations or anything. So I feel if there is a leak which would likely be the cause to my driving issues it must be on throttle under load?