tire

There is what seems like excessive slack in the oil pump chain on my M30B35. There is about 2cm of back and forth play at the middle point: As you can see, this M30 has no tensioner there. 1. Am I right in thinking this slack is excessive? 2. Has anyone had any luck using shims to space the oil pump down to take up the slack? I read in the bentley manual that this can be done with the M10 motor. Any advice from bimmersport's M30 gurus would be appreciated! Thanks.

You can't just grab the shock shaft and pull it up and reach up and get the nut on? For future ref, you loosen but do not remove the top nut before you even jack the car up (you may still need to get fancy with sockets to stop the shock from just spinning), then undo everything and pull the strut out, then compress the springs, remove the top nut, put your new springs in and reassemble. Better still, take the struts to a tire shop and they'll probably swap the springs for you - saves a lot of time if you are using wind on claw type compressors and don't have a rattle gun. Good luck.

I just started on it, pulled the old gearbox out today and going to put the new one in tomorrow all going to plan. Then with a new radiator I'll be able to drive it and slowly do the other bits and pieces. It's by far the tidiest E30 I've had so it's ok to work on. I think my motors in a different position than yours, I can fit a 35mm radiator in the normal spot, fan has to go out the front though. Where have you located your ECU? I can get mine through the firewall but the loom isn't long enough for it to go in the factory spot so it just hangs around awkwardly by the clutch pedal. Hydraulic handbrake should be a laugh!

If they are genuine then that is cheap!

Marinised M30! (trademe)

I think you blew it when you referred to yourself in the 3rd person.

I saw my old silver E30 touring southbound on the motorway this afternoon, still looking great Byron!

Same one.

Thanks for the offer James, I don't pass through there that often but if the timing is right I will take you up on that. Chances are I will end up taking it off and take it around the corner to the Grey Lynn Pit Stop, pretty sure the guys there are into E30s. Will report back with JB weld and Knead-It results first, AJ kindly drained the sump for me earlier, leeeeegend.

Yea socket on the end of a cordless drill would do that part pretty quick I guess. I'll try JB weld and maybe some knead-it first.

I just discovered a small split in the (alloy) sump of my M30B35, about the length and width of a thumbnail. Drips about every half hour with car off. I have replaced 2 sumps so far in E30s and I'm really quite sick of it. Is it feasible to drain the oil and tow it to a workshop to be welded? Has anyone had this done before? Thanks.

You've inspired me to get back into mine. What engine position are you using, 1, 2 or 3? Could we get an engine bay photo?

I can't completely understand your post, but if it helps there are two different 3-bolt output flanges fitted to 260s. I discovered this when I acquired a 260 from a 535 that had the larger flange that did not mate to my 325i drive shaft. From what I remember the two flanges were easy to swap.

Blue ECU temp sender?

The best!

HB Greg!

Sweet, I'm jealous. Looks like a rewarding project.

Look forward to seeing what u do. Tinker time!

I saw it/one too! On college hill this morning. Couldn't got over how big it's brakes were. I took this pointless photo: Also saw Dylan M3's new E30 M3 on Eden Terrace yesterday or the day before, looks great.

I know nothing about boats, but that looks really cool!

Happy late birthday Yon!

Right, now it makes sense. Well good luck. If you end going the cut and shorten route post up how much it costs as I need to get mine done in the near future.

That's strange. Both of those cars should have the same gearbox - getrag 260's. Check what is stamped on both and report back. You know there is a spline where the two halves are joined that allows for something like 40mm of adjustment right?

Yea that's always the way.