Carl

Shouldn't be eating mcd's full stop but e30 consoles seem to hold drinks well between them and the passenger seat.

Can't believe you said E30 as your chassis number, that must've sounded really dumb, the first thing you should've said was that you have the part number then quoted it.

I heard you were a joiner on the weekend, you change jobs like your pants it seems...

Small case is considerably lighter but obviously not as sturdy as the medium case.

As Andy said, 41 and 10 is just the number of teeth, 41/10 = 4.1 I'm running a 40:11 = 3.64 (2dp), others are: 3.91 = 43:11 3.83 = 42:11 3.73 = 41:11

every female should learn to use the stick

You need the OEM pads or pads that have the space for the sensor. Check the pads you've got to see if they have a little U space at the top (E: or I should say the outer edge when placed in) of them, if yes, then you can stick the sensor in.

True, there must be a ton of M20 sumps out there. Alternatively, if the crack is minor just take it off and get it welded at an engineering place, stick it back on with a new gasket and your looking at just the gasket and welding cost.

As Gus said, most vinyl repairs will look arse Ken, yes they do repairs with the dash still in, got several done in an hour for $40 but quality wasn't great and they split again after a year. Can't remember the name but the guy does mainly marine vinyl work, wouldn't recommend it personally. I'm just starting to cope with the cracks, just call them character marks.

I used a place in Lower Hutt to repair mine a while ago but the cracks reappeared a year later. It's the foam underneath that cracks aswell as the vinyl so once they go they're fairly much rooted.

Yip, my OEM rear discs were cracked when I replaced them with some Brembos, I don't think they were meant to handle the heat that track braking generates. Got to learn to leave car in gear instead of using hand brake after tearing it up...is a common error for beginners (aye Udit) and I suspect that's what cracked mine - and they were severely cracked too!!!

Your looking at $500 minimum for a 325 head and only a 325 head would work as it's different to the 320/323 heads. 320/323 heads are alot more common for obvious reasons. What did you do, snap a cam belt and bend a few valves?

IMO, stick to the twin piping and worry more about having a proper muffler and resonators.

I have always had a tiny wee bit of movement in my rear pads but they won't go anywhere, they're sandwhiched in there fairly good

So with your savings i'd expect it would be your shout next week then

On the upper right side is a search function, click it, type in "vacuum leak" in the keyword section and select the maintenance section then click the perform search button and have a read

Perhaps a blow back has caused a vacuum leak in the intake

Funny how fast that spread, was reading stuff website when it appeared, better not make a Darwin award...

Ha, move the decimal place one place to the right and you'll get a bite

If you're rebuilding then synchros, bearings, seals, and clutch parts. Then you might aswell do the pilot bearing, mounts, selector knuckle and gyro while you at it and if you don't have the Z3 lever then do that aswell. I'm going to have stab at $1000 for the lot.

You sure? I've never seen a difference in mounting between the small and medium case diffs, i've had 3 small and 2 medium diffs in there without any problems at all, you saying the 325's are different?E: Medium

It's a before and still to come after

1990 320i, had it for over 6 years, before that were the piazza and pulsar years, and I learnt to drive in a manual column shift datsun van. Is funny how ppl can't drive manuals

Quite frankly i'm surprised you haven't just opened the AFM up a little bit

Gearbox rebuilds are costly, especially if you go through a mechanic, but the end result would be worth while. If you buy a 2nd hand gearbox there's still the chance that it'll need attention anyway not to mention the swap. My synchros are fine but my input bearing is naff, makes a horrible rattle in neutral with the clutch out, but you learn to live with it. First stop IMO should be to do an oil change and stick in some decent oil, get some redline MTL synthetic - same stuff you stick in the diff.