Carl

You need a medal for your diagnostic genius-ness

Actually, can anyone confirm or deny that Jeff Grey (Welly) charge for a reset?

Hi and welcome to the site, one of our more experience technicians will answer your query shortly Good that you have tried searching before posting

I'm not able to reset my service lights using the same method on my E30 which is grounding pin 7 using my little rangi reset tool (resistor wired to tiny plugs). Just done oil, air, and fuel filters in the E30 and E36 with 4.5L and 6.5L of respective pure golden goodness and want to reset the oil lights, the E30 reset as per usual, however, ain't done the E36 before as it's my first time servicing it and after checking online it's the same pin 7 as the e30 I tried several times and failed miserably. Not wanting to drive into Jeff Grey and pay them to do it so what's the trick?

If you want a PC thread go to www.geekzone.co.nz

My turn cause I hardly get involved. I generally wait till someone reports a post before I interfere, but seems to me just reading this thread certain people just can't help themselves but be a pointless waste of time, so turboprop just got a 2-day ban which is a first from me although now I think it should've been longer after actually reviewing his entire post history. IMO, when you post you need to have a think about what you're saying. This is the Internet and what you type may not be conveyed in the same sense/context you wrote it, posts can easily be misconstrued so you have to word them properly to ensure some clarity, and this does go for everyone.

Zipping is very easy: Download 7-Zip from here 7-Zip download - Is the best open source zip program and is nice and configurable Simply select all the images then right click and select "7-Zip -> Add to archive" Set the file type to zip, encoding method to AES-256, and use Ultra compression and zip those puppies up. If you really want to compress like mad and save file size, set file type to 7z format, LZMA compression, AES-256 encoding, and ultra compression. Just make sure your recipient knows to download the 7-Zip program in order to open a 7z file.

You really need to do a before and after dyno to see the real evidence. I have tried a couple of the e30zone chips and the dyno results were a rather significant reduction to hp and torque. After a few emails and sending the chips back with the dyno print outs Ant stopped responding and the chips "went missing". Pretty shitty actually.

You at work? Could be website filtering. At any rate, clear your cookies, update your security settings for BS as your IE might have set personal security to very high in which case no cookies will be saved. Could be a time to switch to a new browser, Opera / Firefox / Safari / Google Chrome etc.

Opera +2, FF is just too slow all round

If your bimmersport viewing pleasure is appearing in a threaded manner where as you prefer the good old fashioned linear manner then here's how to fix it: This is caused by the linking method to bimmersport perhaps by google or from someone elses post. It is functionality provided by the board software that you can't change in your control panel (yet) and is triggered by the web address containing mode=threaded in the link. In the web address change threaded to linear and click go or enter or whatever your browser uses, however, if this doesn't work it's because you've now got a saved session cookie with the value topicmode=threaded, if you edit this to topicmode=linear or delete your cookies and start a new this will fix it. Also, check you've not bookmarked bimmersport with that mode=threaded in the link. Alternatively, if you like the linear fashion you can do the opposite!

 Cracked pipe/boot will cause poor idle, stalling, and will backfire if you press the accelerator hardÂ

Sorted thanks Side note for maintenance, if a starter sounds like it's running very dry, should you spray some lube/grease into it and if so what would be the best to use?

Need a new starter for the 328, is just clicking away on a fully charged battery, and being auto I can't crash start. Changing these is a PITA on an E30, will assume on an E36 it's worse?

Still, someone with those rims could pick up a spare tyre and throw the rest

I'd close this but i'd like to say I had a great day today, a stranger to me on this forum Heath (drtdvl) came through and dropped off a fuel filter for me and my car got back on the road. Pretty good sh*t, turned my bad day yesterday right around today, thanks a lot mate monies already tranferred.

I had a great 2009 year, munich beerfest, BMW world & museum, 9 week euro vacation upon return finding my job just got a whole lot better! then 2010 started terribly, this morning a rock punctured my fuel filter, my drivers window electric switch failed, and a seagull shat on me when I finally got to the beach after losing 15 litres of fuel getting the car back somewhere safe - then had to switch to my friends toyota startlet and squeezing 5 ppl into it! however if drtdvl comes through with the replacement filter then i'd have to admit that's some awesome community spirit and indeed good deeds do deserve another (if that's the saying)

Wow that's a good price Ray, need a Welly subsidiary!

Read from page 4 onwards in this DIY Article to help solve your starting woes Whilst it's around E30's it's not specific to them. 2007_n407_newsletter.pdf

Read this NEWSLETTER around page 4 This isn't the PDF document I was actually after but would appear to have the same article in it that I was using Will sticky this PDF

Did it fix your check control problem?

I had an intermittent starting issue, when the engine was warmed up on the first try it would crank away but not spark, second try it'd start fine. Never died whilst driving. Then one morning the car wouldn't fire at all. Was the CAS - Crank Angle Sensor, but there's a tonne of things to look into Essential checking is does it crank (starter, earth, ignition wiring - inhibitors, alarm/auto) Is it fuelling (fuel relay) Is there spark (coil, CAS, master relay)

I have the same and run 205/55's I have the larger strut on my car and you don't need spacers just some fine adjustments to your front brake calipers. My left side needed no adjusting tho, was just the right for some reason.

After living in Germany I know first hand people change during seasons as some places have extreme temperature changes between winter and summer. My car nut friend swears by 5w30 synthetic in winter and 20w40 in summer. Makes sense given what the winter weights are about. In NZ we don't have the extreme temperature ranges so this isn't a problem. Given it very rarely goes below 0 in Wellington a 5w is pointless.

 I agree with Glenn, there's 316's, 518's, and 725's for a reason IMO, if you bought a 518 you're getting a lot of car for not much price, and in Auckland traffic it'll serve it's purpose.