Carl

 Ah yes, but if you do the manual conversion you can replace all the bits on the gbox while it's out of the car to make it fresh, seals/bearings/oil/shift-knuckle etc (and the z3 shift lever). Just like if you do the engine swap, you can replace the seals/gaskets, do a valve grind, even new rings/bearings/valves etc. That way you know your engine will be sweet for the next 100k kms.

 If I may offer a suggestion, whilst the manual conversion offers the most fun upgrade, one of the cheapest upgrades to a stock car is grabbing a mtech suspension or better off trademe and lowering and firming it up for some better twisties action. I bought my FL 320i stock in 2000 and since then in order Replaced steel rims with alloys (cosmetics) Replaced suspension with Koni adjustables and Jamex super lows (2nd best upgrade) Powerflex urethane control arm bushes (really tightened up steering) Replaced twin pipe CAT with 2 kobis (freed up the exhaust alot) Manual conversion (best upgrade) 3 diffs (4.45 -> 3.25 -> 3.46 -> 3.64) Replaced engine with a B23 (w/B25 intake+injectors) keeping the motronic 1.3 Replaced alloys with the borbet replicas Replaced sh*t muffler with bigger, better, and quieter aftermarket one Currently remedying the overfuelling with dyno-tuned piggy back chip.Will post original dyno and tuned dyno once done.

As requested, more photos BMW world Huge touchscreen table containing their entire history The priceless 507

Someone should change Kaz's title from 2nd Gear to 1st Gear

Fairly standard behaviour, just flush off a good amount from each brake after each race, rinse and repeat.

Or you can just take the LED out of the panel - still have to replace the cat of course

Definitely most likely the diff

Which is easier than you think since you've already got all the parts for it, even the 2.5 will run off the 2.0 ECU (albeit you'd best get the right chip eventually)

Actually, a little worrying, but will be interesting to see if they will pass a WOF after it was pointed out that the front wheels do stick outside of the guard. The top rubber itself sits inside the guards easily but the sidewall has rim protection (direzza) that at the rim sits just outside of the guard...hmmm Here's the image again, looks mighty fine from this angle Image, obviously the rears are completely contained.

Didn't take a front shot, didn't really change the look from the previous rims, which will go on trademe I guess, 15x7 tsw fly's

Well here's my new feet, only prob with spacing was the right front caliper, is just touching the inner hub (not the face), and the rear guards needed some impromptue rolling but will need it done properly in the future.

I've got two keys in mine and unfortunately one looks really deep so means a full sand back by the looks, absolutely gutting to have happen, I too would love to cut some balls off the offensive people.

Would've ditched the e36 ages ago but the girl likes it, good thing I didn't tho as the e30 has been out of action a while...

Well it was the crank angle sensor that was the problem, my one is dead, which made sense from what I diagnosed to begin with. It was cranking but not firing and the fuel pump was working from the sound of it. Now, it was the 3rd thing that I tried when attempting to solve the puzzle, the first thing I tried was the relays (although I replaced the orange fuel relay not the master white one), then I tried other ECU's, and then I tried a different CAS from Ray - turned out that the CAS I got from Ray was damaged and didn't work properly even though I asked for a working one, could've been resolved right there but after that I tried a new coil and when that didn't work I gave up and took it to Jeff Gray's. What's annoying, but unfortunate, is that Jeff Gray tried their own CAS that didn't work becuase their one was dead. They insisted it was the ECU even though I had three of them and insisted it wasn't the ECU but after testing one in Stephen's 325 and informing them it the ECU wasn't the problem they tried a new CAS and wham it worked. So I guess it pays to ensure your bits work, really helps to have a working version of something to test against, wonder if I should ditch the 328 and get another e30

Personally 17's are too big for E30's and doesn't suit the era, esp. per-f/l, 16" rims are the best suited but hard to find, once the car sits down to it's propert height it'll look much better.

I said they were interchangeable, didn't say it was optimal!!!

Fuel economy in an E30 requires a manual with a diff to match your preference. For example, i've had 4 different ratios in mine and settled on a 3.64 for a balance, running a 3.25 was extremely economical and with very good driving netted 13km/L ~ 7.6L/100km

Can you hear the fuel pump when you turn the key? If yes and no cranking then it's probably the inhibitor, should be a closed circuit. In my car if the starter isn't going when I turn the key but everything else lights up and sounds good it's the inhibitor switch.

Thanks to skidz I can now confirm the ECU is working and can confirm that motronic 320/325 ECU's are interchangeable

PM me if you like, I can drive around any evening and play swapsies.

That looked rude... So the horizontal piece would be the shift lever bracket, the earlier types were a flat sheet style that you can see in my article here, either way, if the height/length isn't right you may just need to create your own bracket to hold the end of it up, I had to with mine and that's my 260 gbox you can see.

Can confirm 240/260 being good for M20, the difference is weight and ratios, 240 has a slightly closer ratio than the 260 which is what the 323's and 325's have. I run a 260 on mine, the driveshaft length thing is a case of getting the correct front half shaft with the box and mating it up correctly with grease on the spleen. If i'm right in unserstanding your shifter arm length, it could be a case of the gearbox mounts/crossmember not being correct or the shifter in the donor was short shift and you've got a long throw, if that's the case get the Z3 shifter.

I need some help! Can't start my car and it's looking like it could be the ECU that's the problem, so I need to test this by sticking my ECU into another 320 and checking whether or not it'll start. It is preferrable to do it this way rather than taking another ECU and trying it in mine, I need to rule out that whether or not my ECU actually works. If you can help please PM me Cheers Carl

$40 and you can have my ABS plastic ones, they're painted blue to match my car