Carl

I can understand, I prefer the pre-fl arches to the FL arches, but not enough to warrant changing them

Also check your engine/gbox mounts haven't given up

Got any of these in the Petone store?

See my bimmersport article on doing it yourself

Mine E30 A/C works extremely well it'll cool the car so quick it makes the E36 A/C look terrible and nothing demists the windscreen in winter faster than A/C.

When looking at the engine from the fron the AC is the one on the left and yes you can leave the belt off it if you don't want to use it.

Thanks, and in the spirit of tomorrow's match...

I need a CAS for an M20 engine with motronic 1.3 management, so the sensor that reads off the front crank, not the flywheel. Cheers

On the subject of insurance, my 328 got hit the other week, someone backed out of an angle park into my rear quarter. I'm with PSIS and they let me choose where to take it and so Mike at the Surgery got a call. What seems like a fairly straight forward fix isnt...thank god for insurance and not being at fault. Only takes a minute to resize photos too, should do this by default, regardless if you're running a 24" screen or not.

Sounds like you've got a rust problem, the water going through the vents drains down the join between the wheelarch and firewall, basically as said it's behind the glove box on the engine side where the wiring from the fusebox goes through a hole that has a rubber grommit. Just pull out the glovebox and lift up the carpets and have a poke around. See my maintenance thread on car cancer

Buy a battery charger and give the battery a good full charge then see how long it lasts before it goes flat before discarding it.

I know you can filter posts but can you stick a word filter on PM's? The usual one links to *.ru could be easy to filter out.

# (Amp) Description ============== 1. (7.5) Left high beam headlight(relay K3) 2. (7.5) Right high beam headlight(relay K3) 3. (15) Auxiliary fan, 91°C(relay K1) 4. (15) Turn/hazard indicators lights 5. (30) Wipe-wash, headlight cleaning and intensive cleaning systems(relay K10) 6. (7.5) Brake lights (15A if additional brake lights are fitted), automatic cruise control, map reading lights 7. (15) Horn(relay K2) 8. (30) Heated rear window 9. (15) Selector lever position indicator for automatic transmission 10. (7.5) Instruments, on-board computer, reversing lights, Service Indicator 11. (7.5) Fuel pump, fuel supply pump 12. (7.5) Radio, Check Control and instruments 13. (7.5) Left low beam headlight (relay K4) 14. (7.5) Right low beam headlight (relay K4) 15. (7.5) Rear fog lights (relay K4) 16. (15) Seat heating (relay K5) 17. (30) Sliding roof (relay K5) 18. (30) Auxiliary fan, 99°C (relay K6) 19. (7.5) Mirror control, mirror heating (relay K7) 20. (30) Heater blower, air conditioning (relay K7) 21. (7.5) Interior, glovebox and luggage compartment lights, torch, clock, radio memory, on-board computer 22. (7.5) Left side, rear and parking lights 23. (7.5) Right side, rear and parking lights, licence plate lights, instrument lighting 24. (15) Hazard warning flasher 25. (30) Not in use 26. (15) Touring: rear-window wipe-wash system 27. (30) Central locking system, door lock heating, on-board computer horn, Sound System 28. (30) Cigarette lighter, motor-driven radio aerial, independent fuel-burning heater 29. (7.5) Left fog light (relay K8) 30. (7.5) Right fog light (relay K9) Relays ===== K1 - Normal speed K2 - Horn K3 - High beam K4 - Low beam K5 - Unloader K6 - High speed K7 - Unloader K8 - Fog lights K9 - Fog lights K10. Wiper control Additional Relays ============ In front of the fusebox just on the forward part of the left strut is an additional little box that contains the master relay (white) and one or two fuel relays (orange). There are also two more relays behind the glovebox, one blue and one yellow, but someone else will have to shed light on these two.

Last time I had a clunk when decelerating the diff crown wheel was a tooth short and not long afterwards that missing tooth caused the diff to lock up and sheer the spider in half and I was stuck in the middle of a main road You can test it's not this by moving the car with the engine of as the diff will make a little clink noise every rotation if it's naff.

Wanker has an F40, F50, scalgiatalla, and an enza among other ferraris...plain rude - f40 was my dream car when I was in primary school, i'd still take an F40 over any other ferrari...except maybe the 250

Just don't run a europlate on the back of the car as it's more likely to get picked up from behind whereas on the front it's fairly difficult to pick up by oncoming traffic.

I am after a replacement E36 petrol flap lock actuactor thingy as mine is on it's way out Don't have time to rummage around pick a part at the mo Will swap for some ABS plastic e30 eyelids PM please

I read it but the car has been running fine then just stopped so won't be a plug mismatch and given that it has been running fine then just stopped I doubt that it's the spark plugs - they are the oem bosch plugs.

So what am I looking for with the dizzy and rotor, that they are there, that the rotor is contacting and the arm not broken??? As for relays, i'm assuming it's the group in the fuse box and not the ones behind the glove box?

Forgot to ask, anyone with a e30 want to drive over on the weekend and let me try out their bits Motronic 1.3

So no one has any idea what to do with a car that's got no spark? Would replacing all the coil and/or relays from matching running E30 be a good start?

I have some E30 eyelids for sale to a good home They are ABS plastic from the UK painted gletschlerblau metallic - glacier blue - for my car but IMO they are better suited to darker coloured cars Two Karearea's and they're yours, PM me

I'm in the position of replacing front shocks on my 328 (think the gymkhana stole the last life from them), quote for OEM was 824+gst, rang the shock shop and two monroe reflex for mtech quoted at 546+gst.

It turns over but won't fire. All fuses checked okay. Pulled out 6th spark plug and test started with it grounded and there's no spark Smelt fuel on the plug but can't be sure that it's getting fuel and I don't have a stethescope to check that the injectors are working so can't be sure if it's a spark only issue or an engine management system issue. The coil has 12v across it when in run position but could still be a coil issue. I have swapped the ECU with my spare one and that didn't fix it so it's not a faulty ECU issue. Pulled the crank sensor off to test that but couldn't see how to test it as it's a solid device that didn't want to come apart so cleaned it and stuck it back. Not sure which relays to check (nor how TBH) so at this point looking for advice. Looks like grass gymkhana is not going to happen

I've been using Redline MTF full synthetic in the g/box and diff Has done quite well ripping up and down the country and around Manfeild and Taupo tracks