Carl

This thread is stupid

You must have bad luck, i've yet to see one that didn't start well in the cold, even Tim's car somehow manages to start perfectly in the cold!!!

Idle Control Valve If the valve is on it's way out then you'll get a revy idle, ie, the revs will go up and down like a yoyo.

The problem is that it's f'ing annoying, especially when i've pulled up to a service station on a long trip and after filling up she won't start...it's ebarrassing My only concern is that it may be indicative of something serious, perhaps a fuel pressure regulator or something remote like that, just curious.

Keep it on topic gents, no more bashing

My car starts perfectly when cold but when it's warm it doesn't start as quick. Sometimes it won't even start at all on the first attempt but if I wait a few seconds and try again it's fine. It only does this after i've been driving it around and the engine is nice and hot, always starts instantly when cold Ideas anyone???

Yes I only bought one, I haggled her after she quoted me their retail price of $226 which made me almost choke considering the oem ones are $180!!! I was talking to Rachael at SKF in Lower Hutt, interestingly enough I wasn't charged for the courier fee so I ended up paying $144.16 for the bearing and the courier to my home!!! I think what you really need to do (for anyone in needing a bearing) is to find someone who gets trade discount from these places as the markup is horrendous, either that or use what BS skills you have to haggle a better price.

You want wheels with the 4x100 stud pattern, yes, but they need RWD offset In case you're not sure what offset is, it's the distance the wheel mount is from the centre of the rim. A low offset value means the rim sits out further on the car and a high offset values means the rim will sit in closer to the car. Too low and the tyres will scrap the flares/body, too high the the tyres will scrape the struts. I'm running a 21 offset on 7" width which is probably the max becuase I can't go wider than 205/55r15 without the wheels scraping the arches, an offset around 32 was what I was after but the wheel style choice is limited. I believe 35 is a common offset for the 6.5" and 24 for the 7.5" but i'm not entirely sure what the limits would be before the rims/tyres would scrape the struts or body...

Gus, I bought a SKF bearing a few weeks ago and stuck it in, I only paid $144 (127+gst) for it simply because I somehow managed to convince the young lady on the phone that I had been quoted that price...from Ollie Bit late now but...haggle

Cables...I'm running a fibreoptic connect from the psx2 to receiver...bi-wired silver cabling to my speakers and monsters to the centre and rears...don't need a sub Only stupid thing with the setup is the receiver doesn't have a game input, it has DVD, TV/Sat, Video 1, 2, 3, MD and others but no PSX2 input - gahhh!!! - have to run psx2 through the TV/Sat to use the digital input as the videos don't have the option which then means that I have to run my Saturn cable TV connection through the video 1 - double gahhh!!!!

I have to admit that i'm not that impressed with the sound, sounds okay and I like the wind resistance but it could be better I wreckon...Worst of all is the supposed 5.1 output. While the game says it's spitting out 5.1 my receiver auto selects 2CH 48kHz - I have to manually select the 5 channel setup on the receiver. I tested the psx2 with a movie DVD and the receiver auto selected 5.1 so it's the game that isn't spitting out true 5.1 - gah!!!

Yes, the SA cars had long ranges tanks I believe that >--|--< switch is the stereo speaker balance

Curioulsy then, since the 318is, 323, and 325 have rear sway bars as stock do the models which don't normally have rear sway bars as stock have them added as part of the mtechnik kit???

Sold

Dibs

Wouldn't mind seeing the end result of this (pics anyone) as i'm going to get my mirrors painted at some stage, probably when I get a body kit done. Also wouldn't mind getting rid of the keylocks on the doors aswell so that you have to use the alarm to open the car, would look cooler I think and the security feature prevents screwdriver entries through the car doors. Only prob is if the battery runs flat the central locking won't work and if a thief knew that the boot lock can open the passenger doors then they'd still be able to screwdriver entry a car...lockless doors would be cool though

Get the mclaren race car I find it's not having the fastest car but getting the settings right so that you don't get too much wheel spin that helps the most - oh, and you can't make any mistakes whatsoever Nurburgring Nordschleife...M3 CSL...arcade mode....fastest lap with photo coming your way soon

73% win percentage??? Hahaha, I restart the psx if I start losing, which is generally in a fit of rage!!! Currently sitting on 41% complete, 405 days, 99% win percentage but haven't played it much lately as I got sidetracked with Grand Theft Auto. Edit: Grant, i've found one of the hardest manufacturer races is the bloody vauxhall ones!

Glenn, wasn't at work today, if you still have trouble with it later this week i'll fix it up for you when I grab your diff off you

I agree with some of the others If you've bought a car that doesn't have the power you want, sell it and buy one that is closer to the top of the ladder, which in this case would be a 325i. Otherwise you could spend alot of money on your car and still not have the power of something that in the end would've costed far less!!!

As topic title suggests, am in the market for the mount that connects the pipes and filter to the engine.

Evil Tim won't charge you money, just your soul [evil laugh]muhahahaha[/evil laugh]

The most you can earn a day is 80c...why would you even bother, paper boys earn more than that

I'd hit that :thumb:

I want facelift Zender front with bbs skirts and mtech2 rear end Doesn't Tim have a pre-fl Zender front???