Jacko

Yeah looks like standard Msport. Standard shocks and springs are black and likely still have the bmw part numbers on em. This thread needs more pics, want to see goodies you got for stupidly low price.

Doesnt look like it'll take much to get it mint either, stuff like the Msport rear bumper are a dime a dozen at wreckers. Has the clutch/DMF been done? ~230k is about where my factory one started to be on its last legs.

Exactly... big kidney grills are the equivalent of putting a giant phallus on the front to the Chinese market...

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=UF92-EUR-11-2005-E87-BMW-130i&diagId=51_6535 The V bar things on the rear end to the diff is a E81 thing, no idea why the 2 door has it, maybe they had issues with flex on em ? E91 Msports get even more bracing and stuff, and big ass aluminium plate across transmission tunnel, but from eye-o-meter none of the pick up points transferred across to the E8x platform.

Gave it wash prior to WOF tomorrow. This is Fusso King of Gloss applied 7 weeks ago, and it was covered in mud prior to this evening. Stuff is really legit, behaves like a ceramic but way cheaper and easier to apply.

Wow thats a bargain, would be worth that even if it didnt run. Good spec too - https://www.mdecoder.com/decode/ps89060 (and good vintage, 140 off mine in production run )

Would be worth cleaning it up and seeing where its coming from, the output shaft seals are easy and cheap, the inputs significantly more work and requires the right tools to do properly. Edit -... or its a really good excuse to send it to Kayne for an LSD install

That brace is standard, looks like the diff seals need doing?

Its worth shifting up just to enjoy the downshifts in it ... I need to win lotto.

Id definitely go for manual sports seats given the option, particularly in a 1, they have a way bigger range of motion than the electrics (especially in ass height)

Whats with the Z4 badging? weird.

ISTA+ function is probably the easiest way, can probably do it with INPA too but havent looked.

Funnily, I went totally the opposite way... pulled LED foglights out and put in some 3000k yellow halogens in as I think they looked better with yellowy light against the xenons

Not really any serious power gains to be had, nothing of serious consequence anyway. New map, few more hp (some claim 200kw doable, I think thats likely BS) Decent headers, pickings are slim for RHD, brintech in aussie seem to have the best option but its not cheap, however dyno proven 13-15kw https://www.brintechcustoms.com.au/all-products/n52-custom-exhaust-headers MILVs, modifying the intake lift of the valvetronic system, gives a solid bump throughout rev range but requires a custom dyno tune. There is also a custom exhaust camshaft out there, but its currently vapourware. https://www.bimmermilvs.com/ Thats about it, at least sanely. Lower spec N52s benefit from bolting the HO N52B30 bits too them, but the 130s come out of the box in the highest state of factory N52 tune. There are some epic N52B30s out there in racecars, Kevin from Birds has/had a 380bhp N52B30 that runs S54 ITBs and custom cams with locked valvetronic... but ya talking $20-30k. There is also BPC who have played with multiple silly power turbo N52s, but they're hand grenades so are not available to purchase as kits. As Dave says, best option with 130s is fixing the suspension and putting an LSD in... Ive done some very spirited B road blitzes and Ive never thought afterwards "I need more power ".. near 190kw in a little hatch is pretty solid out of the box. If your 130 is feeling slow, likely something needs some love. A service, new airfilter, new plugs, cleaning out any intake manifold slime and then resetting the DME adaptations with 98 in the tank is probably a good first step.

My UK 330 had same recall, just got done, but not on the NZ new 130, which is odd as as far as I can tell, all the same hardware

Looks like the front and back of two different cars stuck together.

Ill take this challenge, Ill tape up the odo on my 15 year old 130 K's mean nothing if looked after, I bet a well looked after 300,000km car has lower k's on individual parts on it than one with 100,000km on the dash.

I was surprised how un-e8/9x they are underneath, looks more like an E46. Still damn cool car

Gonna be keeping an eye out for dem doorcards... https://www.nzherald.co.nz/nz/news/article.cfm?c_id=1&objectid=12335950

Can you do 225/245 on the rim widths you have? Next sushi cafe meet need to swap keys for 5 min and compare setups

How much stagger do you have at the moment? Ive done 225/235, 215/245, and 235/235 (currrent setup). 225/235 was good, but from my unscientific butt testing I seriously wouldnt consider more stagger than that, ruins the balance of the car in the twistys.

Whats with all these post covid M badges in the wrong place ?

215/245 on a 130 will make it yuck, tried it for a week of auckland/raglan return daily, and just ends up being an understeery mess... looks cool, drives poop.

A manual N52 Z4 would be fun if can find one, otherwise get a 130, join the cool kids club In terms of bang for buck, 130s are absurdly good buying at the moment. I have an E91 330 as well, its a good family car and nice to drive, but in terms of weekend toy not so much, 130 is WAY more entertaining.