KwS

yeah, it hits 181KW. Not sure why it doesnt register, but hey, 179KW is sweet.

Took some new photos of her whilst out and about. DSC06130 by KwS09, on Flickr DSC06132 by KwS09, on Flickr DSC06133 by KwS09, on Flickr DSC06134 by KwS09, on Flickr DSC06170 by KwS09, on Flickr DSC06171 by KwS09, on Flickr DSC06172 by KwS09, on Flickr DSC06173 by KwS09, on Flickr

Made some sweet noises too

Went on the Dyno today. Engine ran very well and made a number i am SUPER happy with. 179KW.

M3 went on the Dyno today. 179.2KW ATW. K&N Panel, no cats, rebuilt vanos otherwise stock.

Some overseas M3s did get that sports wheel, so not surprised there, but good spotting on having facelift nose on a prefacelift. Can also see it still has the prefacelift side repeaters.

Its the bright, blinding thing behind those beautiful cars

i really like the first and second shots. the sky in the first one is amazing.

You crazy, man!

Use the O-rings i have listed, they are the better, updated ones from the S62. Stripping the top end isnt a easy as just taking the cams out and scrubbing them. Would require removing timing chain etc, not worth the effort for what it is. It will not get worse, as im using quality oil, always hot running and short change intervals.

Thats what i used, and as your car is very close in production date to mine i would say it should be, but as above, check with RealOEM or a dealer to be sure (dont want you to order the wrong bits!).

I always prefer NZDM, but that is completely irrational and quite frankly illogical as NZ owners dont look after their cars any better than anyone else and the cars usually arent specced as well as imports. Just a psychological thing i guess. There are some exceptions, like the jap import E36 autos having the terrible jerky jatco boxes, and having lived most of their life in start-stop traffic doing 1st-2nd-1st change over and over again. That Evo in the OP is opened worse than my relatively basic early NZDM M3 (i have the dual tweeters in the doors and full OBCbut no sunroof).

Cooling my jets. Post removed by author.

Just like poverty spec 318 E36s on broken suspension, there are people that want all sorts of things others may not want.

Fantastic news! Hope its going to a good home to be restored?

Parts used during my vanos rebuild. This is for my car, some parts may vary so please check via RealOEM or your dealer to be sure. Beisan Systems seal kit BS031 Beisan Systems Anti-rattle kit BS032 Beisan System Anti-rattle tools BS094 The following parts are from BMW Vanos solenoid O-Rings (S62, improved design over S52 and direct replacement) 11367830828 x2 11367830829 x2 Vanos filter 11361401973 07119963073 Vanos solenoid cover gasket 11311318323 Vanos cover bolts 07129905121 x4 Vanos intake piston nut 11361313170 Valve cover gasket 11121404358 11121317386 x2 Oil cap 11121716993 And the bolts i had to replace due to rounded heads (hopefully wont be needed by anyone else) 07129903807 (bolts) 07119931044 (washers) Be aware most parts are Ex Germany (all Beisan parts are Ex USA), so order them beforehand.

THe majority of galants and legnum VR4s had AYC, and its was very troublesome due to people not servicing them. There were a few models that had open, mechanical diffs, but they arent common. The manual VR4 is OK. Heavy, thirsty and the AWD system isnt too great. i certainly wouldnt pick one over a turbo subaru. The auto VR4s have terrible autos that have a reputation for spontaneous failure. I owned a galant VR4 (same shape as legnum but sedan), in the best possible model (turbo, manual, recaro interior, non-ayc) and it was fast, but handled badly, drank oil, smoked and was a POS.

Stupid jatco boxes. Convert to manual, fixes everything

Get the frames, for sure. I made the mistake of not buying them initially, and ended up getting a pair later anyway. SOOOO easy to mount the plates in and allow for more adjustment (to tuck plates up higher etc).

Fully reassembled car, fixed leaking radiator hose (clamp wasnt tight enough and hose was slightly out of place) put about 30KM on it tonight and everything is working well, and drives well. Hard to tell if its any more powerful/faster, but its not slow, not at all. Finally, vanos rebuild, complete.

Nice, congrats on the purchase. Love the colour!

Its tiring, every time anyone brings up SMG, someone who has no direct experience comes along and calls it shithouse, and says its the worst thing ever designed. On the other hand, i know a couple of SMG owners ( SMG I and II) that love it. Its not for everyone, yes, but calling it shithouse is just stupid.

Mazda rotaries use it to engage the anti-flood thing (cranks engine without injecting fuel).

Sounds like the opinion of someone that has read about, yet not driven an SMG, like usual.

As you wish. Part: Something-a-rather. So, the parts arrived today, all the way from Germany. Woot. So i got a new valve cover gasket and spark plug seals, 3 new bolts and 3 new washers for the vanos unit (to replace the rounded ones and a spare), and a new oil cap as the old one weeped. New stuff The new vanos bolts to replace the rounded hex. Its obvious im not the only one to have issues, the new bolts are T30 Torx, not hex. Same deal with the new solenoid cover bolts, no more hex. Final vanos bolt in, YAY! Vanos solenoids installed. Note the placement, with wires exiting top and bottom, not both exiting down the bottom like the B32. New cover gasket Cover on, with new bolts. Also had a real quick go at polishing it the other day when i was bored. New valve cover gasket. The new gasket is much softer, and much better to work with than the old one. Note that with the S50 engines you apply the gaskets to the head, and then the cover onto that. The gaskets have locating lips, ridges and dowels. Cover on. What a prick of a thing to get into place. Took about 3-4 tries as it kept getting stuck on the loom holder above it, and the rear cam cap. Coils in Radiator in This is about where i connect the jump pack (battery died whilst it was sitting), and with the coils still disconnected, cranked the engine a few times to get oil into the vanos unit. No bad noises, cranks fine. WOO! Coils connected, key turned and it roars into life. Idles a bit lumpy and having some power issues thanks to the flat battery. Idle is to be expected, vanos isnt worn in and the ECU has lost all its learning and reset to defaults. I take it for a real quick spin down the road and back and then fire her back into the garage as i had no fan and the temp was coming up to normal operating temp quickly. Parked up, everything looking OK, nothing spewing anywhere. Installed the fan and the shrouds and took it for another spin around the suburb. Didnt want to go too far because i needed to get the oil to temp, and the coolant pressurised. Drives good, and the sound at 1800RPM is gone. Little growl from vanos when letting off the throttle, but there is still 300+ KM before its fully worn in. Its fast, i give it a quick boot, and its off. Didnt rev too high or give it too much, and i dont know yet if its a placebo and feels fast because i havent been driving it the past week or not. Anyway, i roll back into the garage for one final check before i head down the hill for a longer run. Pop the hood, slight smell of coolant, OK because i spilt lots draining radiator. Nothing else looks out of place. Jump back in car and back out of garage.... Hmmm, thats a nice trail of green. Nuts. Back into the garage i go. Looks like i derped the lower radiator hose, and its leaking from there. Will fiddle it a bit tomorrow and get it clamped correctly (think i pushed hose on too far) and i should be good for a decent run tomorrow night. Getting there!