thorburn

I've done the first bit of removing the fan. I also changed to an 80 degree thermostat and 80/88 degree fan switch Really isn't a performance upgrade apart from the weight that is removed. I fill be getting a puller fan along with a new radiator to finish off my cooling system

There go my dreams of a pair of attractive swedish hitchikers I've seen in old mini's mounts that flip the whole seat forward from the front. But that is old technology and I need it to be safe Seems a cert is definately going to be necessary for fixed backs

What I am hoping to achieve by going to a fixed back bucket seat: A seat that will hold me better Lighter seat Will be equally or more safe then standard What I am worried about is how safe it will be with an airbag? does anyone have any experience with fitting a fixed back seat to a low volume vehicle fitted with airbags. This is the only thing I believe will require me to get a cert. Another problem I have read about is that fixed seats in a coupe are a problem due to rear passengers not being able to get out. Is it necessary to re-register the car as a 2 seater? Will it be fine if the seat slides forward (and maybe tilts forward)enough? Are there any other problems I might have over looked? Currently I have read through the LVVTA pdf on seats and seat anchorages and plenty of threads from various forums. Any other useful websites to have a check over? I will speak with a certifier when I have a good understanding of what will need to do

Do the smg and 6 speed use the same gearbox? Ediot: small search and found they are. SMG to manual conversion appears do-able as well

"If it leaves 2 lines i'll take it" start increasing revs

Better off just buying one and sticking an lsd in it. Unless you have some really good luck you wont find one with a factory lsd. When I was looking for an e36 every second dealer I saw told me their car had an lsd. I think this must be where the rumors start.

I've got a silver one if your interested

Best choice. Now add stick and lsd

Where did you source the shricks from? http://www.johnmaherracing.co.uk/enginecalc.htm original=3453cc New=3658cc Nice project

I'll give you $20 for the LSD depending on where it is and what ratio it is Beyern wheels you mean?

Car-----------mm/ per. turn--------BMW Part # E30------------36.5 mm------------32 13 1 092 335 E30 M3---------38 mm--------------32 13 2 225 556 E36 M3 '95------39 mm--------------32 13 2 227 191 E36-------------45.5 mm------------32 13 1 096 280 E36 M3 96+------45.5 mm-----------32 13 1 096 280 E36 Z3 M---------45.5 mm-----------32 13 1 096 280 E46 Std-----------50 mm------------32 13 6 755 065 E85 Z4 M----------51 mm------------32 13 7 836 844 E36 Z3 non-M------53.5 mm----------32 13 1 095 575 info stolen from here: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showt...d.php?t=1470728

drop links meaning they connect to the control arm? I have lemforder offset CAB's. There better than what I had in there before

http://www.arp-bolts.com/Images/Aus-NZ_Distributors.pdf hope this helps

they have already sold on trademe

which m50?

I'll have to swap them back when I finally get my car back together and see what less camber is like. Did you try suspension tech for re-valving and stuff?

I wonder if anyone in NZ would weld up some contours like the roadstars in the favourite e36 thread

yes. Sorry I can't remember what Are you going to get m3 brakes as well? might as well use some non-m spindles

If about 17x8 et20 sit about flush. 8 inches=203.2mm / 2 =101.6 101.6 + 20 =131.6mm back space 101.6 - 20 =81.6mm of wheel will stick out from the hub For your front wheel 18x9 et10 9 inches=228.6 / 2 =114.3 114.3 + 10 =124.3mm back space 114.4 - 10 =104.3mm of wheel will stick out from the hub For your rear wheels 18x11 et-5 11inches=279.4mm / 2=139.7 139.7 + (-5) = 134.7 back space 139.7 - (-5) = 144.7 of wheel will stick out from the hub I've shown working so people can correct any mistakes i've probably made

How do you get less caster when you reverse them?Talking about m3 evo tops I don't have the m3 camber settings on hand. But I thought that by inverting the tops you get much closer to the m3's camber How did autolign stuff your shocks up?

Here is the first thing that came up on google http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/align.html My basic understanding of it is the more caster that is added the more the wheel will lean over. Thus creating more camber as the wheel is turned. If the strut tops look like the ones in my build thread put them on reverse(L on right side) or you will loose camber from what you had stock. No idea of cost of rebuild or testing. Autolign should be able to sort them out.

Depends on the condition of the bilsteins and the motorsport shocks. If you want to know you'll need to get them on a shock dyno (not sure if this is the proper name). You could get the bilsteins rebuilt to whatever spec you'd like while you are at it. The offset strut tops will add or decrease camber and caster. Do you have any photos of the strut tops?

you'll need to get a compression and leakdown test to get any idea of the health of your engine.

Bump cause it needs to go