thorburn

I was wondering about how this concoction of parts came to be. Would you sell the rear shocks seperate? and how many k's on the shocks

Camber change - shim thickness in mm 0.5 deg - 1.16mm 1.0 deg - 2.63mm 1.5 deg - 4.00mm (just for reference, not recommended) 2.0 deg - 5.44mm (just for reference, do not use) 2.5 deg - 6.81mm (just for reference, do not use) stolen from here http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=995556 Was using them untill I swapped to inverted m3 evo top hats. I'll have to have a hunt for allignment sheet for what the static camber was like then

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-324355184.htm Solved?

If it is also his daily i'd imagine its just grassroots stuff.If your comfortable with an engine swap then i'd say drive it till it dies, replace and repeat. Of course give it as much help as it can get with all maintanence up to date and a good cooling system. You wont get far with an open diff and a welded diff isn't really daily driver friendly(some might argue this). Some nice shocks and springs, few bushes and some other bits that'll empty your wallet and you should have a reasonable e30

I'll trade you a set of Schnitzers (same spec as above) for the rk's

Who makes the throttles/what are they from? Was the intake section between the throttles and head designed to be replaceable for tuning the intake length? That is one very good looking engine

Don't take it to heart it seems we aren't very original around here. Myself included Bmw + BBS seems to be an equation that works so we follow it off the bridge (I use "we" very losely so if you feel offended don't group yourself) What suspension do you have? Also what BBS wheels are they?

Out of interest what is the fine for having incorrect plates?

yes

How is the rear rotor attached to the hub? I'm guessing magic

The rod and block destruction is great. Looking forward to see what's going into the m20 build

17x7 et25 4x100 http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-322489332.htm Not mine

Are you saying a lower offset wheel will cause you to have less control?Nope I think this is to flash for me. Can you explain the relationship? Is there any figures from a shock dyno on any of these shocks? Are BC or XYZ's rebuildable? Without swapping to a different insert Why not just buy some coilover sleeves from stocks or autolign and make your own?

I've got a set. I think the offset is around 36. One wheel is buckled. I'll get them repaired for the right price

poo brown. What lip

That depends if you are sure it is your shocks that are causing the noises.

4. New rear shock mounts will die quickly with dead shocks.

If you are going bigger why not just go 330 brakes You should match the brake bias to the traction the tyres are getting. So tyre size and compound, spring rate, weight distribution, dampening, body structure, etc should be considered.

Where do you get them for $20?

do you want to sell the rc's Ben?

Looks realy good. You've inspired me to get a move on with mine

Most m52b25 (323 e36) have an alloy block. About 20 kilos lighter then the earlier blocks. They are not as strong as the earlier blocks though. Overheated alloy blocks are a much bigger problem then an overheated iron block. All m50-52 engines are known for having cooling system problems which can and do cause them to overheat. Where jacko has said the 323 is strangled is kind of correct. If you look at a dyno of both engines you find that the later model makes better power down low (where most people drive their car everyday). The early 325's do better in the upper rev range. This is because of different intake manifolds. The 323's have a more narrow intake that increases the air velocity at low rpms I think it more comes down to how you want to use the car. Really there isn't a lot of difference between the m50b25, m52b25 and the m52b28. Having never driven the b20's I wont comment on them. I'm also only talking about the m50b25tu (the one with vanos) If i was looking for a new e36 right now i'd be making sure it didn't have a jatco gearbox and the service history shows no signs of the engine overheating. The reason I wouldn't go for a jatco gearbox is because they are known to cause trouble. Unless you plan on replacing it. Atleast $1500 for a good replacement

You state that they are light weight. Would you be able to give exact figures? What are the specs on these? 17x9 et22?

how much? and where do I pick them up from

At a guess from the photo an e82 or 88 1 series Out of interest where did you buy them from? pretty piss poor instructions. That is assuming they are an aftermarket product