thorburn

Think i've sorted this now. I will be getting a Mishimoto all alloy dual core radiator for $424 After reading plenty of reviews online it seems to be the best choice. You have no idea how boring radiator discussions are. Next step will be finding a 16 inch puller spal fan and making up a fan shroud

Are you building the headers yourself? If you are I found this to be quite a good read. http://www.burnsstainless.com/techarticles.aspx

Only thing to do on the cheap that would actually make the car feel faster would be to change the diff ratio. Is it manual? Headers would probably do you some favors as well. But all of this is plenty of money for not a lot of gain. Maybe your definition of cheap is different to mine. Why do you (or your) mate want more power?

Welcome, Only expensive problems that seem to be a comman occurance are: Jatco transmission problems-http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index.php?showtopic=18567&hl=jatco+jerk Waterpump failure or other cooling system failure which destroys engines I'm sure someone with more experience will add some other problems

These are what I accidentally ordered.

thank you so much for that link. Will keep me entertained for hours

The numbers you have worked out will be correct if the dome of the pistons are the same. You could find that the cylinder head volume of the m54 might be larger than the m50/2. As a result the pistons would have a larger dome. Putting the larger dome m54 pistons in a smaller m50/2 head volume will result in a higher compression ratio. I have no idea of the cylinder head volume of the m50/2 so it could be larger or smaller then the m54. With a larger bore the compression ratio could only be determined if the volume of the piston dish is known Now you have an m54b30 I'd love to hear what the real world volumes of everything is. Also how close the real compression ratio is compared to what bmw states

love it. Where did you source the dry ice from?

Caliper rebuild kit that I have is just the seals and dust cover. Never looked at ebc because I've never heard of them. But from the start I was pretty set on Brembo so I didn't look too much into different rotors

Not sure how exact you are wanting. I'd imagine that after reading PEI330Ci's post you will be after something more in depth. But if not here is my average estimate of what the unswept area is of an m52b28 (second attempt ) Compression ratio = 10.2:1 Bore = 8.4cm Bore area = 22/7 x (8.4cm x .5)squared = 55.43 square cm Stroke = 8.4cm Swept area = 55.43 x 8.4 = 465.6 cubic cm Unswept area = 465.6 / (10.2 - 1) = 50.6 cubic centimetres Feel free to correct me if i've done something wrong in this

or convert to wheel studs

I do the work myself Motul dot5.1 fluid - $18+gst each Brembo max rotors - $240+gst fronts (I ordered the wrong part and got some interesting looking brembos, I'll have an experiment with how they go) Both purchased from BNT Caliper rebuild and brass sliders were purchased from pelicanparts.com. The brass sliders are probably not necessary Caliper rebuilds can be purchased from a few places in nz. I can't find where i'd seen them at the moment. I think they were about $40 Genuine BMW pads - Can't remember I got the braided hoses from Alert motorsport. Also probably not necessary. No idea if these dollar values have been changed since. Just want to give you an idea on price. I had at first wanted to use larger rotors (I actually received them from the previous owner of the car). I decided against it because I could get abs to start dancing with decent-ish tyres. I'd also think i've only boilt the fluid once. This was most definately caused by old fluid. If you can get your abs going and don't boil the fluid is there any need to go bigger. Hope this helps

Care to share so we all may learn?

resuscitation attempt

the z3 3 litre and e46 carriers have the same part number http://realoem.com/bmw/partxref.do?part=34106758120 Iirc z3's and e36's have the same spindles. And all e36, z3 and e46 (excluding z3m,e36 m3,e46 330i and e46 m3) have the same front brake calipers. But this mod is mostly wank factor. If you have good pads, rotors, fluid and ducting you should not have any problems with overheating. If you haven't had brake fade then you are just making your car worse by adding more weight to it

What is the problem with your current brakes? all e46 carriers are the same apart from m3 and 330 I went through this before and pulled out after words of wisdom. You are just adding more unsprung weight. What I am doing with mine is slotted brembo rotors, braided lines, motul 5.1 fluid, rebuilt calipers and brass sliders. I also wonder if you need a cert for changing your brakes. You'd be all sorts of unlucky if you did get caught for it but just saying

I've never been big on secret squirrel stuff From what I have read so far rod lengths are: M54B30- 135 mm M50B25 vanos- 140 mm M50B25 nv- 135 mm M52B25- 135 mm M52B28- 135 mm M20B20- 130 mm M20B23- 130 mm M20B25- 135 mm M20B27- 130 mm Unsure if m20 rods are usable or not If you want 3 litres you want a US s50b30 crank (85.8mm of stroke) and you will need to bore it to 86mm. This is definately not the easy route. If you have an m52 engine you will need to have the cylinders re-lined as well. The other option (easy )if you want 3 litres you'll want an m54b30 or US s52b32 crank (91mm of stroke). You'll need 135mm rods or smaller. M52 and m54 rods are lighter then m50nv. With 135mm rods you can use m54b30 pistons (84mm bore) and you will get about 10.2-1 compression ratio. These pistons have the same bore as m52b25/8 and m50b25 engines. With suitable bearings and other bits it should all fall in to place To get the most out of a 3L setup I believe you should use an alloy(m52) block. Otherwise you are better off using an m54b30. Just because of the weight saved Basic engine calculator: http://www.johnmaherracing.co.uk/enginecalc.htm M54 head will not fit on an m50 or 52. It might fit on an m52tu I'm sure this is all info you've read allready. I'm trying to find again threads of the chaps that have done it How much power are you planning on putting through it? the owner of eurocca.net had a resleeved itb turbo alloy block producing 300kw. I don't think extreme load or hp will come from an m52b30. Unless you sink a whole lot of money into it

na I just stalk oldschool.co.nz. closet mx5 fan

Hey I asked first haha Im guessing a 3l m50 is coming. If it is staying na please put it in an alloy block. 20 kilos is a lot of extra weight Are you keeping it simple and using the m54b30 pistons or getting something made up for more compression? m54b30 head won't bolt up to an early m52. I haven't seen anyone who has put m52 cams and bits into a m54. Do you have any more info you can share on that? good luck finding the bits

Not quite they said it was only ok to call 111 in an emergency while driving. I suppose it comes down to what you believe is an emergency

14x10 -50 offset + mx5=

That is much easier. Just get some new shock mounts E46 mounts are said to be an upgrade and are a direct fit

Is this where it has been damaged? Please excuse the tiny pic If you rip right through it will be a pricey problem I'd be getting some of these: http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/...Sedans%20%20%20

The rear shock towers in e36's are a comman weak point. Usually people get z3 reinforcement plates to prevent this. Because its already been damaged i'd say youd want to add a little more then just this. A chap from the uk posted in here a little while about welding in a new shock tower.

Where can you get the alloy thermostat housings from? Good to hear your car is going. Got any videos?