Forrest

^ Will do Oli, won't be buying glass for a bit. The E30 takes priority as a project at this stage And cheers James for that

Here is a helpful thread: http://www.e30tech.com/forum/showthread.ph...light=volvo+lip 740 Wagon 89-90 Here is a pic of mine with the Volvo Lip installed. You only just have to trim the ends to clear the wheel/line up flush with the wheel arch/valance. Just mounted mine with cable ties into the existing holes in the bottom of the valance after adding some small holes into the top of the lip.

Find a volvo 740 wagon front lip, flip upside down and mount it. I have and only the purists know the difference between it and a iS lip. Any general wreckers yard or a volvo wrecker would have them. Would be a small fraction of the price of a iS lip too I got mine for 9$ from pick a part. The PFL lip on a FL looks mean though, I have rocked that before too on a old car. Keep up the good work the wagon looks tits.

Nice tidy car. But seriously, I love how every single E30 that is on trade me gets posted up......even the wrecked ones

Glass will probably be the way to go I guess, just will have to bond it to the block instead of trying to drill the glass

That is badass, good stuff Henry. Eventually I am going to lose mine and put a carbon panel in...325i CSL?

Basic plan is to diesel/degrease the shiz out of it so it is all shiny, then secure a clear perspex sheet to the top, add rolly wheels to the bottom and bada boom bada bing sick 6 pot table/half a doz beer holster

Let the madness begin....

^ Cheers John. How hard are the alternator bushes to replace? Is that a dealer thing?

Instead of making another n00b thread I thought I would put this here: m20 325i PFL About 3 months ago my fan belt decided it was more fun sitting at the apex of the esses at Manfield than in my engine bay. Needed to drive the car home so threw a new fan belt in and drove home. Now have a ultra bad squeak on start up and when blipping on downshifts etc. Was there supposed to be a bearing or suchlike to replace at the same time/water pump bearing is gone? Have sprayed in the general area with WD40/stop belt squeak and the problem goes away for a short time then comes back which makes me think it is a bearing that needs replacing, or is it a matter of adjusting the tensioners/alignment off the alternator/water pump. Also for what it is worth, the fan belt is really really tight at the moment, to the point where there is next to no flex in it at all, don't know if that is a good or bad thing. Any help is appreciated before I start taking things apart

That brake custom work looks awesome! keep it up Josh/everyone helping on this

Good stuff Ollie. Let me know if you need any training tips I do have a 74 min half marathon under my belt My main new years resolution is to get back into race shape/the groove to be ready for my debut marathon at the New York Marathon 2011

^ My Dad had a ride in one of those on business a while back, said it was really nice inside.

I used Hammerite

Sorted.

Mods can you delete this Chur

This is the second day in a row bimmersport fail thread......where is my crown? Had the brake light sensor wires round the wrong way, so when I was off the brakes the lights were on, so battery is flat, so car won't start. Fail. The only reason I didn't notice is because I have a kill switch for the battery and didn't think it would go flat that fast. Now to see if I can start it with a new battery...

Yup checked all the fuses. Found I blew a resistor up in the flasher relay not that it should be related. And I am pretty sure its getting power to the key because all the lights still light up etc.

^ Potentially could've shorted. What does that mean? It feels like a flat battery when you turn the key but all the dash lights light up etc apart from the service indicators if that means anything? All the soldered points and the tabs look fine.

So I have just refitted the top black plastic piece of trim which covers the top of the lock barrel, steering column etc on a e30. In doing this, the orange plastic plug type thing that the wires run off on the LHS of the lock barrel on the steering column came off, so I refitted it with the lock piece slid back into it and now the car will not start and I am just welcomed to a buzzing noise with the turn of the key. What have I broken? Fuse/Relay/The whole car. Sorry in advance for the poor description, kinda need it sorted asap. Cheers, Nathan

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-263151936.htm Discuss. ECU worth more than the car, thats solid power from a tired 4AGE too. Just needs a 20v and some ITB's and it would haul. I'd rock it to the shops on a Sunday

I have found driveshafts don't like skids much. Ironic?

^ Yeap you have nothing to worry about.

Make sure the two universals (one on each half of the driveshaft line up e.g totally match each others position/both universal knuckles are entirely flat the same as each other). When you drive the car you will know if it is out of balance. Not much fun having to replace and redo everything when you have it unbalanced, ask me how I know Hope that makes sense, good luck.

Ha. Gutted lol.