bravo

About 2000 because they tried to extort one from me in 1999 when I was living in a ac ommunal accomodation and had a tv in my room. Told them to feck off. Surprisingly they did. I think the year after they were canned.

Depending on damage, fibreglass is often cheaper to fix, but easier to break. Plastic will bend alot before it breaks and can be plastic welded in many cases. Fibreglass is cheaper and easier to produce which is why most cheaper bodykits are made from it. All the BMW factory versions are plastic.

Tints - depends on the WOF place. I wouldn't bother as it would suck if you had to rip them off for a wof. Rims - buy new or trademe. Springs - mine aren't for sale as I need a set for the g/f's car and don't want to f**k about selling mine then buying new ones. I just thought if you wanted to buy some secondhand 40mm springs (save $$$) then swap for mine to go very low this would be one way. I am not sure about the brand of these springs or if they have been compressed as bought them secondhand and previous owner didn't know either. If you do want to swap PM me and we can have a chat. Pic:

Hot wheels. Nice.

I so need to fix my scalectrix set. Nice - good luck.

Waaaaaay better! The wheel was th eonly thing putting me off before - gorgeous!

Do you mean tech II for both? As the pic is tech II on a pre fl and I didn't notice 'till now the '84-'91 remarks. Fibreglass is generally less flexible than plastic, but often less expensive.

I love knox college too. In my day it was a mix betwenn an Otago boy (me) and otago girls. Up the bum no babies Cain... Anthropology wooohooo!!! Ah the [hazy] memories!

I've had problems with wofs,but it depends on which set I'm running at the time (I have a darker set) and where I go for the WOF. Technically they ARE illegal, but you'll get away with it 9 out of 10. Not sure if Ollie is still providing the service. If he is its worth the cost - his finish is better than most can do with a spray can for not alot more.

Brugar don't do powderoating, they outsource. Give them a aring and they'll tell you who they get to do it and go direct.

He means the ride is harsh. You WILL grow out of going scrapingly low. Enjoy it now, but be prepared to spend more money in a few years to go a cople of mm higher in exhchange for improved handling. I raised my car 20mm - NOONE noticed. I still get idiots telling me "your car is SACKED bro!!!". I used to have 60mm drop, now have 40mm - with body kit it looks low, but handles decent also. If you are set on going 60mm, buy 40mm springs I will straight swap you for 60mm ones as my g/f wants her e30 lowered and I only have my old 60mm springs.

Good for 7HP easily! If you bought your plates from germanplates.com the price is in euros.

Or if you are resigned to the above figure - manual it. It'll cost much the same give or take a few hundred. (probably give) but wouldn't you rather it cost a shade more and you had a manual???

Its tech II for pre f/l cars. If its built properly and fits properly and has a good finish, then go for it. It appears he is importing it. Possibly he isn't going to have it shipped till it sells - may have to wait.

Gay. I'd suggest moving to the city, but the driving stadards of Terrano drivers aren't any better there unfortunately and my guess is there's probably more of them in the city anyway...

Missing tech II boot spoiler, but has low kms. Probably quite a good wee car. I'd hit it if it was manual. Building a 320 for the missus but would dump it for a hot wee manual 318.

Hah conrad - I always have to remind myself "reliable horsepower" and hope it's true, otherwse I just don't get it. Very cool, not my taste, but I respect the sentiment.

Looks very very good. I reckon finish the mirror colour coding, black the kidney grill (seriously), and look for a tech I rear skirt to finish off the lines - something missing there. Otherwise good stuff. I love it!

Looks good although I'm not sur where you are going with this. Wheels don't really match the front end which looksw great and the rear is not my taste, but maybe will come together if rear skirt etc is to come. Look forward to seeing it all come together eventually. Pity it's a 318 maybe change that 1 to a 2....

Yes. The internet is not a truck.

Again from H&R's website: Until the adjacent coils in this fictional "compressed spring" actually touch, the rate is not affected by the gap between them. Therefore, to say the gap between the coils affects the rate is not correct unless the coils touch. But at the end of the day that's either just semantics, or difference in how I understand the theory compared to you. AFAIK none of us are experts even if we talk like we think we are. Long story short - compressing springs is best left to the pros, and buying correct springs in the first place is even better.

lmao

Seeing as the original question used H&R's as anexample, and H&R's are one of the best springs for BMW, and seeing as I knew this was on their website, here's some info: So as you can see, there is alot to know in making a spring work as designed. Why would you f**k up what the manufacturer was trying to do UNLESS you are such a pro you can get an equally good spring with a more desirable height. Just buy a spring designed to go that low - don't f**k about with compressing them. Also, I'm inclined to agree with 3pedals about the angle of the coils not making much difference to the rate as a spring is essentially a compact torsion bar - however it may mean you get coil bind (coils touching) and that does effect the rate dramatically. I found out most of this the hard way buying the wrong springs because they were cheap. now I have decent springs, and my car is still low and I would never go back.

Pump attendant? Just kidding man. Must ask my brother he works on a petroleum storage facility in New Plymouth and used to work on the petroleum delivery ships before that. Obviously this thread is entirely speculation, but the news reports about the dangerousness of the new fuel smack of ill-informed scaremongering. As with all new products (unleaded fuel a particularly apt example) they need to be tested before I'm willing to take the plunge, but these panic-merchants seem to be spouting rubbish not backed up by any fact.

Agreed. I repaired a soundly sideswiped e30 for $1000 incl. paint (Front valance, drivers door, b pillar, sill, rear door, mirror). Just did all the stripping and prep myself, bought new panels instead of repairing old, and did assembly myself. I think the drivers door cost me $5!