bravo

Just had 2 fitted for $ 170 ea incl. GST and balance/fitment from a Nrthland tyre retailer (usually as much as 10-15% dearer than city folk pay). Thats $680 incl fit/balance for four. I'll give you $500 for them incl shipping to Auckland (I'll pay for shipping from Auckland to here).

Don't bother with stock ecu- go something tunable such as a link. Or don't buy the 318 you are plannign on buying. Buy Andrews 318 turbo instead - all the work done for you. I think he's after $15k or thereabouts????

The only reason I swapped mine in my old 320 was that I had 325 Bilsteins I wanted to put in and there were 325 struts in Andrews race car waiting to be pillaged (those were the days). I can't think of any specific reason unless he's trying to add ABS or some such.

If you hadn't posted up some interesting stuff already Id probably be a wanker and laugh. But seeing as you seem to be above board and honestly taken by these I'll share a little bit of knowledge: 1) the electric motors these things run are not powerful enough to produce the kind of pressure that makes any difference 2) the current to power something like that negates most of the gain 3) the setup is usually leak prone so does not produce enough pressure 4) the setup is upstrem of the AFM, so the losses of air flowing through the AFM helps lose much of the gain 5) the AFM works on airflow not pressure, so although it will still work, it won't work as designed by BMW 6) your ecu doesn't know how to handle forced induction anyway 7) The air is usually hot, from an unsheilded pod filter = waste of time 8) maybe 5hp gain. 7hp if coupled with a nice set of headers (at aroiund $1-2k a pop for decent ones) the dyno figures are dodgy at best (what other nods did they make at the same time? why isn't everyone running one of these????) Sorry mate, but its o long known con. Spend the $1k on a decent exhaust, and cold air intake and sme preventative maintenance and you'll get way more gains.

Still on topic sort of: Can someone please give me an educated opinion on the following: Cost of m50 vs m52 swap roughly the same. M50B25 140kw@5900rpm/250Nm@6500rpm (high revving torque) M52B25 125kw@5500rpm/250Nm@4000rpm (lower revving torque but same HP as M20B25) M52B28 140kw@5300rpm/280Nmw@4000rpm (low revving torque plus higher torque and M50B25 HP) Yet, Gary - you commented that based on the cost, an m50 upgrade was not worth the money. M52 seems like a dodgy option as NZ has had high-sulphur fuel, and so its M52's may be on their way out. I want around 145kw (s14 power) and would like to spend m50/m52 swap money ($6-8k) - what is the best option? I DON'T want an e36 and cannot yet afford an e46 330i which is the next best choice IMO. Ok - sounds like I want a rolex for the price of a casio, but what I mean to say is - surely there is better bang for youur buck out there. I have been suggested an nice 350 chev or a 3.8 v6 holden motor that could do that kind of thing for beer money, but for some reason that doesn't sit right with me. Ideas?

The website says 1-3 weeks. Mine were apparently sent last thurs so you are a week ahead of me. Let me know when yours get here as it will let me gauge when mine will arrive.

I know nought about the availability of parts etc. Our quality of fuel may be an issue as the diesel is not as good as yours, but in the last year our sulphur content has been reduced dramatically and I am told the newer, cleaner modern diesels now work here but it would pay to check. Jochen on these forums can answer all you NAV and radio queries - from what I understand all of that should be no problem. Diesel is about $0.98c a litre in the main centres at the moment. Road tax for petrol vehicles is included in the price of fuel. Diesel vehicles pay Road User Charges at $32.15c per thousand km for a private motor vehicle up to 3 tonne. Usually purchased in 10,000km lots plus around $5-10 transaction fee.

Nothing - bolt up. (shock collars may be different though so may need the shocks from the 325).

Not if you did the donkey work yourself. Its something I'm considering at the moment. Although I am taking into account the fact I can use my current manual gearbox (260 getrag) and don't have to buy one for the m52. (which I can, but you prob can't). Ask the man Sam - I see your point. I assumed that the $8k included actually putting the engine in the e30. So which is it M10_E30 incl. or excl. installation?

WTF are you all on - you can buy an s62 for under 8 grand, but once you factor in installation etc, no way you could have it running for that. An m52b28 goes for around $2500-3000 and then you're looking at a couple of grand install if you do it your self by the time you get mounts and exhaust fabricated, suss out issues like brake booster, wiring, etc etc. An m2b28 conversion may be had for $5k, and maybe s50 for $8 but I think you're pushing it.

Gus and I were talking about this the otherday $8k? I'll make the assumption that I do any work I can myself then NA m52b28 or m20b25turbs.

It would depend on the exact setup - if they used original suspension points with bags setup to mount in stock locations, then not too hard, but if fabricated mounts etc, then may be difficult esp since you would have to make sure nothing they did contradicted the series rules regarding modification to chassis etc.

$4500-5500 for a good manual one. $8k plus for a good m325i (uprated suspension, LSD plus a couple of other bits). As little as $2k for an auto in average to below average condition. Roughly - there are deals and rip-offs to be had - par for the course.

On the money martyn. Although, the sensors often give a false warning when they get wet. Check your pads, and if they are fine, get used to the light (or remove the bulb)

holy sh*t that is badass. Will - we are doing this next week. Forget the 327 eater - we'll but the m20 in the tractor - turbo?

I think ninja's would probably win, but I voted pirates for the same reason I wouldalso argue that the Northland Taniwhas have a shot at winning Regional Rugby - you back your own team.

Yeah mostly ships. They require huge torque and low RPM to turn f**k-off props at low speed. The Kakariki and Taiko (two NZ petrol tankers owned by silver fern shipping) do something in the order of 15 knots at 80 rpm (off the top of my head) 9000kw engine I think. They are small ships (around 180m long). Bigger ships (250-400m plus) need big motors.

I'll just go look at them at ollies. sweet.

Photo of red tails?

Reread my post - must be the beers - I sound like a f**kwit. Just buy the damn 328.

Pre f/l generally has the reservoir (and hence overflow) on he drivers side. Just go f/l gus - if you give me a manual f/l one you can have the auto one out of my car. Too late for me to bring it down this weekend, bu should be able to suss something in the next week or two.

3pedals - nice bit of info there. Its a little bit uncommon to have an e36 expert on here.

Exactly - if you can afford it. 325 + wheels vs. 328 = 328 ftw 328 + wheels + sounds +/or suspension upgrade etc vs stock m3 = m3 ftmfw. This is of course if your goal is performance which based on the topic title, it obviously is.

pfft a little bit of local knowledge is all. My nanna drives faster than that on the way down to the try'n'save pah!