bravo

m20 turbos go hard - if done right - look at spending at least $10k - more if you can't do any of the work yourself as is my guess. Or better yet, just wait until one comes up for sale - $15k will get you a turbo e30.

Yeah its a smoothm20 huh Ryan? pulls really well even with the auto box. Manual that sh*t.

According to Beissbarth alignment computer, target e30 alignment specs are: Rear Camber: -2º00' ±0º30' Cross Camber: 0º30' Individual Toe: +2.3mm ±0.6mm Total Toe: +4.7mm ±1.5mm Front Castor: +8º30' ±0º30' Font Camber: -0º40' ±0º30' Cross Camber: 0º30' Individual Toe: +1.9mm ±0.4mm I'm running on a severely lowered setup about -3º of rear camber and -2º of front camber.

Momo X1's been meaning to update the thread - done.

An ammeter measures current through a circuit - normally would be connected in series to the circuit??? School-C physics here. Just checked on our boat wiring - ammeter is in series between alternator and battery positive.

You would have to be the only member I know who would rather raise the car to match the rear than lower the rear to match the front. FYI Jamex's are red so they may be Jamex's.

How much drop?

I never go to testing stations - half the time they don't know the rules - put their bloody block under and it hits the sump guard - FAIL! Bollocks - sump guard is not required to be clear for a start and so on. If springs etc installed profesisonally go and complain - you never asked for an illegal car PLUS they know the regs, they can't let a car leave their workshop in n illegal state. Make them remedy it for free. Sorry to hear about all this - some WOF places are retardedly anal.

Going for a change of theme on my car so my balck tails are up for sale. Done by ollie with a gloss finish as black as you can get. Perfectly visible from the WOF required 200m. SOLD

ftw

windscreen banner FTMFW! So hot right now...

Not true - its perfectly OK for a parent to buy a kid their car and insure it for them as long as the insurance company is informed. My parents did - the insurance co. new it was my car as far as driving it was concerned, but my parents were the owners and insured it with me named as the main driver - he insurance was more expensive than if they were the main drivers. I still got an insurance history as that company could see I had been the main driver of a car insured by them for x years. Perfectly legit. Its the fraudsters who aren't up front with the insurance co that create all these horror stories about insurance co.s not paying out on kids cars insured by parents. On topic: Good cars. Drive great. Need routine maintenance or else.

Its only a 318 dammit.

Sticky?

getrag 260 will fit also and stronger box.

She obviously was holding the map upside down - damn southerners think they're so important they hold the map with the south island at the top. Ray used to work out of home (hobby turned business) when he was up by the Caltex, then he moved house to down by KFC and moved the business to Bavarian on the shore.

Its only like 3mm - pump up the tyres before your wof.

OK - no idea about the stiffness in springs between 4 and 6 cyl. Progressive rate - get stiffer the more they compress so softer ride, but still stiff under cornering etc. Forward rake - front slightly lower than rear - makes the car look more aggressive. Blue no-brands are on my car - I didn't write my post too well - they are not for sale. (Gus has first dibs if I ever sell anyway). Look in the for sale section - Andrews Jamex's may be the ticket - he's after $150.

two. Don't worry Will, I'll break it in for you so its nice and supple when you have first skids. Emma - you dorealise you are buying this car for Will, my and Gary's benefit - not your own don't you?

1) to what? as long as its not chassis, steering or suspension your OK 2) Nah - not structural 3) Depends on how hard ad fast they are. It costs you nothing except time to go back and get it ticked off if the fail it on it so maybe risk it?

Just some info - use-once bolts are designed specifically with 'give' in them so at the correct tightening torque they fatigue slightly (stretch) and "Lock" in place. Once this has happened, the bolt/nut will not do it again. Hence the reason many people reuse them but with loctite.

40mm drop is a little bit high for my tastes. F/l rear guard is lower than pre f/l so the rear may be happy at 40mm then drop the front 50mm and get some badass forward rake (not entirely legal as you are not allowed to SIGNIFICANTLY alter the relationship of front to rear height, but 10mm prob sweet). You should leave the pads in, as they stop the springs sliding about, but it is possible to leave them out - I wouldn't. Go for Andrews Jamex supa lows - progressive rate spring and legal ride height. It doesn't matter that they are off a 4-cyl. Front struts are diff diameter, but no diff as to springs. You will end up with a legal height, a good spring at a good price. Or I have some low king springs if you want - not much of a drop though - sounds like you want a bit more. I have some unkown brand non-progressive spring - Dark blue in colour. No markings. They are fine, and right on the limit, yet somehow still captive. No idea what they are though.

Yeah - small wheels.

Its a badge off a Toyota. I couldn't remember which model so I Googled Toyota Raffine and apparently it was a spec of Toyota Chaser - seen the badge on those older early 90's Toyota sedans.

The pads are top and bottom of the spring on both front and rear. The LVV rules don't let you put aftermarket pads in to make springs captive, but OEM ones are fine. You could get some aftermarket ones made as long as they look OEM. If you are paying a pro to do it, maybe tell them you want to go as low as possible without needing a cert and leave it up to them. The rear of an e30 (esp f/l) looks lower than front when the car has been significantly lowered, but it is the suspension compnents at the front of the car that are usually the lowest points to the ground. My car is just legal on about 50-55mm drop.