Jamez

Standard clutch thickness is 9.5mm, wear tolerance is 1-1.5mm. I had a 8mm clutch disk and it was still usable but only just usable, I guess that confirms the above information.

Anyone know what the standard clutch thickness on a S50B32 is with a dual mass flywheel? ideally the minimum thickness as well.

The red one, way more colour depth

So epic, makes me want to take my e30 rallying.

Sounds good to me. Limited time deal, You can play with the dogs if I can borrow your S50B32 timing tools

I have the room for rent again - check the trademe listing for my BBS RS coffee table (http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=742691571)and I currently rebuilding a S50B32 in the rumpus room:

Pretty sure the rings are failing, going to replace with OEM ones this time, at 5 times the price of after market rings it would be cheaper to buy some new pistons but I am pretty keen to keep the whole thing stock and standard for reliability. I hope I get what I pay for the second time

Don't they were used to e30's being able to pass them

People will laugh at my lines and braking spots I'll get a video today and chuck it up.

Decals look cool in the night:

Big thanks for Jon the Pom! If anyone else wants to come down and look important, feel free to join the pit crew

woop woop, check out https://www.facebook.com/bmw303 if you want to keep updated.

Mine is for sale, $11k for anyone that wants to be part of this , with 18" Mpars and the V12850 personalized plate, it looks the part. If I still have it by then I'll attend.

I just compared some corner speed data, and we are 10km/h slower round some of the fast corners so there is still heaps of dialling in to do, the only reason we are not slower than before is because the motor is far stronger and makes up for the lack of corner speed.

Update time: Took the e30 for its first drive in anger in almost 2 years, managed to turn a 1:12.8 on lap 3 of the first session with a few niggles still to iron out. Then spent the day tweaking the car to make it easier to drive at those times rather than it feeling on edge. Dan still has a bit of time to cut off, but his corner speeds are similar so its just a matter of him getting a few clean laps together in order to get my times. At the head of the day I was hitting consistent 1:12.9's with no rear brakes (had to push all bias to front as we ran out of rear pad), so with new slicks, rear brakes and all the niggles fixed, I reckon we can maintain 1:12's all day at Hampton, possibly even lower when the car is fresh. Car has a tendency of over-steer so will drop the rear sway bar link at the next track day and then use more toe out to correct that under-steer and give better turn in. Going to be interesting to see what we can get down to at Puki in 2 weeks with all the problems ironed out. Bonus for the day was finding out we may be able to fill 120L in 30 seconds, so gone are the days of an 8min pitstop Car has never look so together before A quick video of how the car handles in the cold / warm / hot:

Looking for a diesel BMW and I came across this - http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-730508942.htm Yay or nay? Seems pretty good value.

WTB: E30 Front Windscreen, anyone got something cheap in Auckland, for race car.

Hey Brett, sorry for being really slack about organizing getting the rear screen but I finally have room for it now, can you send me a price for: Both Front guards Both doors Rear Windscreen

I just use a plumbers wrench but make sure not to score the insert (the silver part)

Now that I have the room to bring it home I will start working on it next month. The engine is being rebuilt at the moment so it will be going by the end of the year with a bit of luck, its going to be quite standard to start in order to get it done, otherwise it wont be ready until next year.

I see this car quite often on my morning runs with my two dogs, always love the exhaust note on the shifts.

It's finally back together after a year on jack stands and is looking pretty tuff, I have done a fair bit of maintenance (off the top of my head): Rebuilt the Motor with OEM spec parts - It already makes enough power so there was no need to increase fuel consumption and reduce reliability with go fast bits. Rebuilt Front Calipers Straightened the wheel base (it was 1cm shorter on the LHS previously which caused a heap of problems) Replaced front cross-member and added metal to where it should mount (it had rusted away) Replaced Engine/Gearbox/Diff/Brake/Clutch/Power Steering Oil Replaced Front and Rear rotors Fitted Z3M Diff cover Fitted light weight flywheel and replaced pressure plate etc. Fitted headlights (looks far less like a bastard child) Fitted bonnet vent (engine bay was getting over pressurized causing the bonnet to lift) Painted odd bits such as the front bumper Urethaned the engine and shifter mounts Moved the engine back slightly. Given everything a thorough clean There are still a few loose ends to tie up but for the most part its ready to race in the north island enduro's this winter. In the coming weeks the car will be sporting a bimmersport livery on part of the car

Yeah, rebuilding it at the moment, should be good to go in a few weeks.

All this talk is making me wanting to do something about my situation. What's something cheap that gives heaps of pull and doesn't drink to much?